SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am coming up on 75k. What should I anticipate needing replaced beyond the standard book service below? Nothing really stands out as needing attention when driving it. Was planning on doing a transmission drain and fill in addition to the 75k service. Just had the front brakes and rotors replaced five months ago, so those should be fine. Any guidance is appreciated :)

Here is what I am being quoted by my local indy shop, they've quoted me $718

  • CHANGE OIL AND FILTER
  • REPLACE SPARK PLUGS
  • CHECK ALL FLUID LEVELS AND TOP OFF AS NECESSARY
  • INSPECT BRAKE SYSTEM
  • BLEED AND FLUSH BRAKE SYSTEM
  • REPLACE AIR FILTER AND CABIN FILTER
  • INSPECT FRONT AND REAR SUSPENSION COMPONENTS, BUSHINGS, SHOCKS, AND STEERING
  • INSPECT TIRES AND ADJUST PRESSURES (ROTATE TIRES IF REQUESTED)
  • CHECK LIGHTS AND CONTROLS
  • REPLACE EXTERIOR BULBS AS NECESSARY
  • LUBRICATE HINGES
  • SERVICE WIPERS AND WASHERS AS NEEDED
  • INSPECT HOSES AND BELTS
  • CHECK FOR FLUID LEAKS AND OTHER MISC. SYSTEMS
  • ROAD TEST
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
662 Posts
That is a lot of money for that list. Most of that can done easily. You could do most of it for under $200. Spark plugs are not that expensive, air filter and cabin filter are really easy and about $40 for both. All the other stuff is just inspection items.

Are you able to work on it yourself?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
696 Posts
That is a lot of money for that list. Most of that can done easily. You could do most of it for under $200. Spark plugs are not that expensive, air filter and cabin filter are really easy and about $40 for both. All the other stuff is just inspection items.

Are you able to work on it yourself?
Agreed. You're paying them 700 bones just to lay their eyes on different parts of your car, plus swap out a few filters and the spark plugs.

If it was me, I'd pay for lifetime rotations and balancing at your local tire shop, postpone the plugs until 100k (they would probably last beyond 150k), and swap the filters and wipers yourself in 30 minutes' time. Set aside the remaining $550 for a post-winter professional detail and for unforeseen future repairs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
662 Posts
That's about it. The rest is usual visual inspection included with most oil changes.

The filters are very easy. Plugs can probably wait. I just do mine at 100k and they weren't terrible, its not the v8.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
662 Posts
The filters are 2 different sizes. You need to measure the one that in there and order accordingly.

Here's a video on replacing cabin filter. It's easy.

https://youtu.be/_fBWYPsSP7c

The brake flush would be harder if your not experienced. Should only run about $100 most places.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,259 Posts
See also http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-xc90-9/xc90-cabin-air-filter-replacement-37516/ for the job.

Description of IAQS itself is noted here:http://support.volvocars.com/en-ca/...4w20&article=b8b08ef0c391c79bc0a801e8014c64e6

As far as filters, there are 2 types, IAQS (Interior Air Quality System) and non-IAQS. The way to tell if you have IAQS is to look at your recirc button on the console. If you have the recirc icon only on the button, it's not IAQS. If you have the recirc icon with MAN on the left and AUTO on the right, it's an IAQS.

Used to be that IAQS had the charcoal impregnated filter and non-IAQS used the plain paper filter but most of the non-OEM folks have charcoal in both filter types. So now go with the size. IAQS uses the thicker (1.5 inch) filter versus the non-IAQS which is 1 inch thick.

Supposed to be one or the other and the filter box should have some plastic guards from the factory to prevent putting the wrong filter in (if you get a mirror and look underneath, you'll see what I mean). Some folks have gone in the direction of breaking the guards and putting in the larger filter, works just fine. So long as there's only one filter, does not matter.


Little off topic but for those of you that don't have IAQS-

Timer mode activation: (Vehicles equipped with the Interior Air Quality system have no timer mode): Press and hold the recirculation button for at least 3 seconds to activate a recirculation timer mode. The amber LED in the recirculation button will flash 5 times to show that the timer mode is being activated. In timer mode, each time the recirculation button is pressed, the climate control system will recirculate the air in the passenger compartment for 5-12 minutes, depending on the outside air temperature, and then revert back to fresh air.

Timer mode deactivation: Press and hold the recirculation button for 3 seconds. The amber LED in the recirculation button will illuminate steadily for 5 seconds to show a return to "normal" mode. In normal mode, when the recirculation button is pressed, the climate control system will recirculate the air in the passenger compartment until the recirculation button is pressed again.

Timer mode memory: If the vehicle is turned off while timer mode is active, timer mode will still be active when the vehicle is restarted.


Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
696 Posts
Bleeding the brakes is pretty simple with a Motive Power Bleeder or similar tool. Last time I checked they were less than $100, which means less than what you will pay somebody to flush and bleed your brakes for you. Plus you can use it over and over. The bleeder screws on the XC90 are all easy to access without lifting the car (especially with your 20" wheels), so it's really a pretty straightforward job.

Also at 75k you might think about flushing the transmission fluid, if you have not done that before. There is some debate about whether flushing should be done, but it seems the majority opinion on these forums is that it is worthwhile preventative maintenance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Cali. Was planning on drain and fill. Was quoted $153 for that. I'll look into the bleeder.

Complicating factor in all of this is we're headed to Cape Cod next weekend from DC and will put at least +1k miles on the odometer. We're at 73,500 right now so we'll hit 75k while there. I guess none of this is that critical that it has to be done before next weekend, but my original intent was to knock it out prior to the trip. I guess filters and oil are no brainers since they're DIY. Any risk in pushing the brakes, tranny drain/fill, and spark plugs to 76k?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,259 Posts
Super cheap pressure bleeder if you're handy and don't mind buying a Volvo cap, have had one of these in my garage for a couple of years and works great: http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/campingart/jettatech/bleeder/ Put a pressure gauge on mine (instead of the tire valve), another link has it noted.

Also, if you have an air compressor, look on Harbor Freight for a Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder.

Motive is great, good to have other options though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,259 Posts
I see $7 more (including shipping) on a Volvo reseller site in Illinois with all OEM parts for the same "kit". Assuming of course that you need the larger (and more expensive) multifilter for IAQS.

Good that you have options.
 

·
Registered
2005 XC90 V8, IPD sways and endlinks, currently shod with Pirelli Scorpion Verde
Joined
·
546 Posts
Thanks for confirming my feelings. I'm somewhat comfortable wrenching, not sure if my wife is comfortable with me wrenching :)

This really seems like an oil change plus plugs, plus air filters. Am I missing something?
Maybe. I'd suggest replacing the brake fluid is important, especially if you live in a high humidity environment. Car manufacturers often don't put that in the list of scheduled maintenance because they don't want to pay for it. However once your car gets a bit older (and out of warranty) all that moisture in the brake system can rot your brake lines and ABS system from the inside out. I flush mine out every two - three years using a Motive power bleeder (as described in the thread below by Caliwagon) using SL6 fluid from ATE bought at IPD.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ggleavitt - really struggling with that site and finding the kit you a referring to...any guidance would be helpful.

Safety - thanks for pointing that out. It is on the list. Just deciding if I will attempt the brake flush on my own.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
I don't know what the required replacement interval is with Volvo's, but all the Mecedes I've owned have always required brake fluid replacement intervals of every two years, regardless of miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,259 Posts
Ggleavitt - really struggling with that site and finding the kit you a referring to...any guidance would be helpful.

Safety - thanks for pointing that out. It is on the list. Just deciding if I will attempt the brake flush on my own.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
They don't do "kits", I used the part numbers from the kit on the site you noted (1275810, 30731383, 30636551, 30636704, 30630754). Only item missing was the washer, it's 977751.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top