SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a V70 2004 2.5T which had 188620 km (117203 miles) when I had the ECU programmed. The new software was from Germany, EMJ Power is the brand or whatever. The program promises 243 hp and 385 Nm, which is limited drastically on the 1st and 2nd gear. Now the car has been driven for 190400 km's (118309 miles) and I've had 3 ignition coils (original) broken while driving. The first one broke when I was returning back to my brothers house, we exchanged the steering gear which was leaking. No problem, bought a new coil and driving continued. A week and 1400 km's (870 miles) later another trip to my brother, we exchanged 18" R-alloys under it, and I was returning home. Drove for 30 km's and same engine light blinking as the first time too, and loss of power. Scanned the ECU and 2 coils was broken.

Notices: on both times, the coils started to break after accelerating with 3rd gear and floored. The coils must have been originals, each and every one had Volvo-logo on them. The first time the fifth (gearbox side coil) broke. And on the second time the fifth and the third one broke. We exchanged the spark plug on the fifth after the first coil was busted, and tested the originally 2nd coil on the fifth cylinder and the broken coil was installed to 2nd cylinder. Then the new coil was installed to the 2nd cylinder. And on the second time of breaking, the fifth coil was originally from 2nd and it had the new spark plug, and third was old plug and old coil. Now it has old coils on 1st and 4th and new coils on 2nd, 3rd and 5th. Only 5th has a new spark plug, new are on their way.

Any idea on this matter? Have I just had some very bad luck or could this be because of the ECU update? I'm afraid to floor it again if the rest of the old coils OR the new ones would sign out of their contract... :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,373 Posts
When one coil fails it's time to replace them all. Heat, age, and use deteriorate coils. The tune increase the load on the engine, causing weaker components to fail and will generate more heat. You should really make sure the engine is at Stage 0 before a tune. The increase of air mass and fuel in the cylinder on load makes it harder for the ignition system to generate a spark, so having weak coils or a spark gap set too large can cause "spark blowout" or a load miss. Replace the coils, and drop the spark gap to 0.026-0.024
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you! I will check them tomorrow and adjust if needed. Will inform this thread how it went!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I checked the old plugs, finally! They were quite bad looking and the gaps were between 0.8 ... 0.9 millimeters. I think what you recommended was in inches (0.024 ... 0.026) and that is 0.66 - 0.61 millimeters. I bought Bosch SuperPlus FR7DPP+ +24 plugs and all coils have been exchanged too. The plugs were said to be pregapped, and not to gap by user. I installed them and the engine started just fine, of course. On the package of the FR7DPP+ it says the gap is 0.7 mm or 0.028.

Still I'm afraid that once I go to a proper place and floor it with the third gear, I get more ignition faults.

I have to test it of course. If more ignition fails occur, what would be the next course of action?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,373 Posts
You should always check the spark gap, even on "pre-gapped" plugs.

I have to test it of course. If more ignition fails occur, what would be the next course of action?
Drop gap to 0.6mm like I previously recommended. If you're still getting misfires after that then we can troubleshoot further. Sometime boost cut will feel like a misfire.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I finally have the time to answer to the topic. I did gap the plugs to that specific 0.6 mm or 0.039 inches. That has helped a bit, but there still is a slight hesitation/stuttering/twitching (it won't accelerate smoothly) when the gear is on third and I floor the gas pedal. There is no error codes on the ECU, I do the scans with Torque. So I should need more specific troubleshooting on this matter. Thanks in advance!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No, I don't have one. I do have Torque though and it does have the capability of showing the boost pressure when accelerating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,373 Posts
Torque app is inaccurate. The displayed boost/vacuum value is calculated from MAF, Displacement, RPM, and IAT. You want a gauge that will measure intake manifold pressure directly, either mechanical or electronic tranducer. A dash mounted boost gauge should always be installed whenever a vehicle is tuned.

Also, torque app is OK for on the fly diagnostics (I own and use torque app), but it's capabilities are limited on Volvo just like most generic code readers. The BPS (boost pressure sensor) PID is not available through OBDII for Volvo, the only way to read that sensor is with a VIDA/DiCE or equivalent diagnostic tool.

When you state hesitation, what RPM range are you noticing this hesitation? Full boost won't come on until 3-3.5k rpm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah it's around that RPM where the hesitation will appear. And after I've gained enough speed and RPM is higher than that area, the hesitation is gone. I could try to test that today again to tell the exact RPM range where the hesitation will appear, if I can get some grip on the road, they are covered in ice around here (finally).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,134 Posts
I finally have the time to answer to the topic. I did gap the plugs to that specific 0.6 mm or 0.039 inches. That has helped a bit, but there still is a slight hesitation/stuttering/twitching (it won't accelerate smoothly) when the gear is on third and I floor the gas pedal. There is no error codes on the ECU, I do the scans with Torque. So I should need more specific troubleshooting on this matter. Thanks in advance!
0.6mm or 0.039"? They're not the same
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
They are gapped 0.6 mm, I did the conversion with an online tool and we use metric units so don't know for sure what the correct one is in inches.

E: checked the earlier post for correct gap in inches and what I wrote in inches was wrong. The gap in plugs is 0.6 mm, whatever that is in inches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
The hesitation arrives in around 3500 RPM and ends around 4000 RPM. But again, I can't test it thoroughly as the roads are covered in snow and DSTC will cut the power long before I can test the whole RPM area, and with different gears. It feels like the car can't get enough fuel when it's boosting. Either that or the "misfiring" -> something wrong with ignition. There are no error codes in the ECU though, but all I currently have is the Torque app to read the codes.

As the problem occurs only on third gear, and it might appear on 4th and 5th gear too, should I contact the chiptuner and request troubleshooting from them? On the 1st and 2nd gear there are no problems as my car is with Geartronic automatic gearbox, and the program doesn't give higher boost on the 1st and 2nd gear at all, to prevent any damage on those small gears (high torque on low RPM).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,373 Posts
Make a video. Honestly I'm having a hard time understanding what you're describing as a hesitation.

Is a constant hesitation/shuddering through that rpm range, or just an initial hesitation/shudder when the throttle is opened?
Is it a violent hesitation/shudder, or does it feel light like a gear change?
Does it happen in 3rd after the 2-3 upshift, or if you're in GT mode and have 3rd gear selected do you notice the same thing?
In GT mode in 3rd gear coasting around 3.5k-4k rpm if you go WOT do you notice the same hesitation?

Contacting the chip tuner won't get you much without more information on your part, and especially if it's an off the shelf tune. Without a boost gauge you don't know what's going on with the turbo or boost control.

How old is the TCV(BCS)?

Have you touched the wastegate?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I had an accident that kept me away from this issue for a while, and I just remembered that I didn't answer to this issue.

Let me explain it more thoroughly. Let's think that you start to accelerate from 1st gear with full throttle. The rpm arises smoothly to the redline and then you switch on the 2nd gear. The rpm goes smoothly to the redline on the 2nd gear as well, and you switch to the 3rd gear. On 3rd gear the issues are present on certain rpm range, on speeds 80 - 120 km/h, the engine will "cut out" for a brief, tiny tiny moment and there are several of them in a row (pattern is ______-__-__-___-__-___-_____-_____). It feels kinda like a misfire, or not getting gas and there are several of them in a row. Those issues came with the chip tuning, I didn't experience them before that, and I did try. I think those misfires originally led to the destruction of the original coils at the first place.

Therefore, it is not a constant issue, only on the 3rd gear. It doesn't feel like a gear change, they are a series of brief twitches, like misfire or not getting gasoline. It's not initial, as it appears on a quite large rpm range on the 3rd gear. If I'm on GT mode and switch on 3rd gear and speed up full throttle, then the issue will arrive while accelerating fully. The chip is said to have somewhat original performance on 1st and 2nd gear, and on the 3rd gear it gives more boost, and that's exactly when the issues are present, full throttle and accelerating with 3rd gear.

TCV is original in my knowledge. I haven't touched the wastegate. I will try to get a video of the issue within a week or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
With the tune and those miles I'd try a new TCV just because.
Is a replacement valve the only option? No adjusting or cleaning possibility? I've never done anything to that part. Shouldn't malfunctioning valve have problems on other gears too?

And to be certain, TCV = turbo control valve?

Both my brothers have the same car, although the other has a '05 and the other one has '07, so I might just lend the part for a quick test, if they are the same between those year models.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,373 Posts
Sure, same part between models. No adjustment needed, just make sure the hoses are connected to the correct ports.

The valve will get slow with age, there are no servicable parts.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top