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1. Use a smaller torx (I forget the size) and loosen the screw that is holding the pipe in place at the firewall
2. From the engine compartment pull on the hose that is connected to the pipe you are trying to separate. Note: I did not have to disconnect any of these connections, rather keeping the connections fixed helped me slide the pipe out through the firewall a little.


The hoses to the right are for the heater core
I am in the process of this right now, but I cannot find the screw that allows me to pull the hoses back from the firewall. Could someone help me locate that? I have a 05 V50 T5.
 

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Well, the bolt I thought was it, turned out to be the AC lines clamp. Oh well, don;t need AC right now, I need heat :D
Anyway, it seems there was no bolt holding mine in, they just needed to be pulled harder.

Getting it back together though, that seems to be an issue!
 

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Has anyone ever used a rubber o-ring from a universal kit to fix this or know the diameter? i dont want to pay $10 for two rings VS. $5 for a universal size kit.
 

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Just did this job over the weekend. I had a leaking o-ring which flooded the passenger side footwell. I also replaced heater core which I got at autozone for $90.
Not too complicated. Worst part is removing center console and all the plastic peaces....









i noticed the same. i have a set of plastic trim tools and small right angle ratchet with interchangable ends...tar bit.. hex whatever that helped a lot for the plastic screws.

i had to use volvo o rings 1) for peace of mind and 2) the jerks at the parts store dont have o rings anymore..ridiculous.
 

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I finally joined the leaky o-ring club :( After replacing my upper & lower radiator hose three months ago I had the pleasure this time of tearing down the interior :rolleyes: Thought I smelled coolant a couple weeks ago when I parked in the garage, checked the reservoir and it was halfway gone. Knowing it was highly unlikely the leak was under the hood I pulled the passenger carpet, then the rear carpet and sure enough ... leaky upper pipe.

To the OP, the hint of installing the o-rings into the indent of the female side of the pipes was helpful info. Also the hint about the torx screws in the firewall pass-through. A poster above was looking for the screw, but it's not in the engine bay side, it's in the interior side, and there's actually two screws, both are T-20. Removing those screws made pulling the pipes back about 1" pretty easy. I also looked back on the Volvo directions for replacing the core and it shows removing those screws.

Hopefully the o-rings are all I needed. I did not see any coolant coming down through the ac condensation hose.







 

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Has anyone been able to get generic o-rings to work, I have a set from harbor freight I just don’t know if there thick enough.


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Has anyone been able to get generic o-rings to work, I have a set from harbor freight I just don’t know if there thick enough.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I did some homework on this and was unable to find one that was the right size aside from the Volvo o-ring.

I also gave the repair two tries using the Volvo o-ring and it leaked both times. So, I ended up cutting the flared ends off each pipeand just using 3/4" heater hose and hose clamps to make the connection. Worked great.
 

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Just to share some info, although not directly related to O-ring replacement itself - one of UK forum users recently had issue with leak in that very place. Smell of coolant in cabin and detectable moist/drips of coolant on heater core pipes. As a first line of defense, not wanting to deal with disassembly he applied K-seal and it actually solved his problem. No more leak, no more smell. Would that be advised for others to try first before trying to replace rings or is it just temp solution?
 

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I wouldn't recommend using any coolant leak additive to the cooling system. There is no telling what unintended passages it may also seal. Also, it may change the thermal conductivity of various surfaces, reducing the effectiveness of the coolant.

I have read of other successfully cutting the flared ends off and using heater hose and clamps to reconnect. This seems like it could be much more reliable.
 

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Everyone - my son's '08 S40 T5 is 1) losing coolant and 2) getting wetness on the driver's side carpet. I want to look at the heater core O-rings first to see if there's a leak and then see if I can figure out why the driver's side would be wet. Are all of these O-rings located on the passenger side, up/behind and left of the glove box? This is my first foray into looking into the heater core on this car and it seems like a nightmare, so I want to diagnose the low-hanging fruit first before I start ripping apart the entire dash to change the heater core. Hoping to just replace the O-rings if they are leaking. Thanks.
 

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Everyone - my son's '08 S40 T5 is 1) losing coolant and 2) getting wetness on the driver's side carpet. I want to look at the heater core O-rings first to see if there's a leak and then see if I can figure out why the driver's side would be wet. Are all of these O-rings located on the passenger side, up/behind and left of the glove box? This is my first foray into looking into the heater core on this car and it seems like a nightmare, so I want to diagnose the low-hanging fruit first before I start ripping apart the entire dash to change the heater core. Hoping to just replace the O-rings if they are leaking. Thanks.
Disconnect the battery and remove the ECM from below the glove box and peel back the carpet, this should give you enough room to see the clamps where the o-rings would be located.
Here is a video for reference. (4:48 the two clamps can be seen) - remember battery needs to be re-connected last to prevent faulty codes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNKW7SAbq8o&list=PLL5laSQxbyVs5UUrJlKNeRbJeMBy-n11i&index=7&t=0s
 

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Disconnect the battery and remove the ECM from below the glove box and peel back the carpet, this should give you enough room to see the clamps where the o-rings would be located.
Here is a video for reference. (4:48 the two clamps can be seen) - remember battery needs to be re-connected last to prevent faulty codes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNKW7SAbq8o&list=PLL5laSQxbyVs5UUrJlKNeRbJeMBy-n11i&index=7&t=0s
Thanks! I'll give it a shot this weekend. Fingers crossed it's just the O-rings. :)
 

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You should be able to see them by just pulling back the carpeted panel on the side of the center console (passenger side) and not have to remove the CEM. You may need to contort yourself to see but they will be visible.
 

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I always knew time will come for me aswell and there it is, voila, the source of odd smell I have felt for months with various intensity had finally revealed itself by drips of coolant under heater pipes and noticeable absence of coolant in reservoir. I knew something was odd and have been happening since early this year even (smell that I thought was leaking exhaust then maybe AC condenser) but it is defo leaking coolant "in there".
Will inspect further during weekend, but I feel like I was kicked in stomach, somehow this is what I was fearing the most and now its happening....

Just wanted to thank everyone for chipping into this thread here (had it bookmarked since I bought the car to be honest ), lots of useful tips. If its "classic" o-ring issue, will most likely go the MNWIT's way with heater hose+metal clamps, also recommended to me by other user that applied that and worked great.

Im just gonna crawl in tight space and cry for a quick while before I figure out the course of action...
 

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I had replaced my o-rings about a year ago and one is dripping again. I did have more difficulty getting the pipes to seat properly. Maybe I muffed it up installing. Anyway, I thought about doing the hose trick at the time but didn't. Maybe I will this time. I did find that IPD has upgraded o-rings Heater Core O-Ring - Silicone - P1 C30 C70 V50 S40 for Volvo - Ipd - 30676322 - 139818. I just received them and new clips and will give them a try.

Something to think about doing… I hung some plastic a while back to shield the CEM from coolant. I know some folks have had their CEMs destroyed because of leaky o-rings.
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AutoGeek, this is a brilliant find. The improved silicone alternative should dispel any reliability concerns P1 owners may have with the OEM service part.
 

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I always knew time will come for me aswell and there it is, voila, the source of odd smell I have felt for months with various intensity had finally revealed itself by drips of coolant under heater pipes and ...

Im just gonna crawl in tight space and cry for a quick while before I figure out the course of action...
OhGod, seeing this thread and my post from last October feels like scratching-out old shrapnel wound, thanks for reminder... :DD

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