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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey

I have been looking for a while now for a UR crank pulley. I have one on my R and I just recently put the wifey back in an XC90. I want to put the pulley on that car too. 208 HP on that vehicle could use a bit of help! :D

If any remembers the guy in TX (i think it was TX anyway...)that throws these pulleys up on ebay everynow and again, let me know so I can reach out to him.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice....thank you both! Just what I needed!
 

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I have been running the ARD pulley and have nothing bad to say about it. They get my thumbs up.
 

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When installing this pulley do you lose power steering & AC? Cause I only see 1 pulley on the ARD
 

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When installing this pulley do you lose power steering & AC? Cause I only see 1 pulley on the ARD
It's just a crank pulley that is lighter than the factory one and is the original size as the factory one, meaning it is not an underdrive pulley. It does not act as an under drive pulley and slow down any of your accessories or diminish their ability to charge or cool. You likely will not see and increase in peak hp but the theory is the car will rev faster and more smoothly with the lighter pulley and should improve the powerband.


Does anyone have a before and after dyno graph after installing one of these?
 

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It's just a crank pulley that is lighter than the factory one and is the original size as the factory one, meaning it is not an underdrive pulley. It does not act as an under drive pulley and slow down any of your accessories or diminish their ability to charge or cool. You likely will not see and increase in peak hp but the theory is the car will rev faster and more smoothly with the lighter pulley and should improve the powerband.


Does anyone have a before and after dyno graph after installing one of these?
I know what a light weight pulley does, I just wanted to know if it came with other pulleys attached to it, to run your AC and power steering
 

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There are two sides of the coin to this.

The main crank pulley also acts a dampener, to dampen any vibrations from the main crank and thus preventing any premature wear of the main crank brearings.
I have tried lightweight crank pulleys and eventually switched back to the original crank pulley just for some reasons from my personal observations
Good Points : revs up faster and therefore spools up faster as well
car feels lighter on start stop to built up the initial inertia
once on the move feels pretty much the same

Cons : If you let go of your foot on cruising (say 60mph), you will notice the car speed and RPM quickly reduces
as compared to if you had the original stock pulley
getting up to high speed and holding on with light weight crank pulley seems more difficult as compared to
original stock pulley likely due ot more momentum due to mass

I guess if you do a lot of start stop and dont need higher mid to high speed drives the lightweight crank pulley does have its benefits. Some recommend it and some dont so it is really up to you.
 

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I wonder if highway mpg's actually suffer from this mod...
 

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you don't loose anything with this pulley. The reason that i replaced the stock pulley was that it was coming apart. It was wobbling bad so i went ahead and upgraded. I haven't looked back since. Dont think that you are going to install this pulley it be night and day difference. Its slightly noticeable but nothing like 10 hp.
 

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you don't loose anything with this pulley. The reason that i replaced the stock pulley was that it was coming apart. It was wobbling bad so i went ahead and upgraded. I haven't looked back since. Dont think that you are going to install this pulley it be night and day difference. Its slightly noticeable but nothing like 10 hp.
How long have you been running one of these pulleys and do you happen to have a dynograph?

On a side note any pics of your mustangs?
 

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How long have you been running one of these pulleys and do you happen to have a dynograph?

On a side note any pics of your mustangs?
I have been running it for about 3 or 4 months now. I wish i had a dyno. Its something that i have been thinking about doing just to get a base line.

06 GT Vert




76mm Turbo... :)


03







Building the motor



 

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...I love the body style of this cobra :thumbup:
 

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badazzstang if you do decide to dyno your car look forward to seeing your results.

Also your mustangs look fantastic. What rods are those in the dohc? I had to put my build on a hiatus since I made the decision to go to law school but I have an aluminum dohc longblock with forged crank, Manley I beams and pistons, ported heads and gt (supercar) cams that is just begging to be installed in my car,but I haven't had the time or extra cash to spend on it.
 

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badazzstang if you do decide to dyno your car look forward to seeing your results.

Also your mustangs look fantastic. What rods are those in the dohc? I had to put my build on a hiatus since I made the decision to go to law school but I have an aluminum dohc longblock with forged crank, Manley I beams and pistons, ported heads and gt (supercar) cams that is just begging to be installed in my car,but I haven't had the time or extra cash to spend on it.
I might get a hold of one of our vendors and see if he will do a baseline for me. I think my number would be a little off since my car is one of the cars suffering from low boost.. At most i can only make 10psi. It is usually only 8-9 and 10 if i am lucky. In third (auto) it will hit 11 and goes right back down to 9-10. I have been tracking down reasons why with no prevail of extra boost. I have checked all the main turbo hoses and found no leaks or holes, changed plugs and cleaned the MAF and boost reference sensor. I am about to start looking at vacuum lines, i ordered a o ring for the OTE pipe, and try a different TCV out of my C70. Hell i was even running the idea of replacing the knock sensor and fuel pressure sensor. I don't think its my gauge. It came out of my mustang and read dead on with the waste gate spring that is in it.

Something cool that happened is that i had a customer come into the shop with a Volvo Penta shirt on. I asked him if he could get automobile parts at discount. He said he couldn't but he said he does access to computer tuning and European engine files. He said he did the Euro tune on his v70r and one of his older wagons and said it makes a pretty good difference.

I feel ya. Got to get school done and then play later. It sounds like you are doing a build like mine. Mine was Teksid aluminum block, Probe 8.9:1 .020 over pistons, ARP main studs and Head Studs, cometic head gaskets, nazman ported intake manifold and BBK long tubes. If i remember correctly the rods were AMS brand. i dont know if they went out of business or not but they were something like $300 for 8 rods with a 800 HP limit on them. The machine shop/builder said they were scats h beams. I never had a problems with them. I didnt hit them with that much power but i did shift that car at 7100 and a lot of launches at 6800+ rpm.
 
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