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Upgraded/Modified 2013 Volvo S60 T6 AWD

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13K views 35 replies 8 participants last post by  likeadonkey  
#1 ·
Hello all,

I'm a fellow Volvo enthusiast who recently modified his S60 T6 AWD with almost every performance upgrade I could. It took a lot of research, emails, phone calls, and late nights with no sleep thinking and comparing products. I'm making this post because I know there are others with questions like I had and I hope to be of help with as much info as possible. I have not dyno tested the car yet nor did I before adding the upgrades. I had my upgrades put on by a master mechanic at the local Volvo dealership. He works on project cars himself and did have to change the physicality of a few things to make it all work and come together. The whole project costed a minimum wage salary honestly, but I have no regrets.

I upgraded the engine with these performance parts from IPD and Elevate Volvo: inlet manifold, exhaust manifold, upper and lower torque mounts, intercooler, charge pipe, inlet pipe, high flow CAI, complete exhaust system, iridium spark plugs, and an ECU tune. I upgraded the turbo with a performance wastegate actuator and performance eCRV valve.

I upgraded the suspension with these performance parts from IPD and Viva Performance: lowering springs, struts and shocks, front and rear anti-sway bars, front and rear endlinks, a strut tower brace, and as many bushings as I could.

I upgraded the aesthetics with the R-Design rear diffuser, R-Design sport pedals, R-Design spoiler, and 15mm wheel spacers from dealership and IPD.

I do plan to upgrade the brakes, rims, tires, front spoiler + grille in the future. The only other parts to upgrade would be the turbo and engine internals (pistons/combustion chambers, connecting rods, and camshaft). You can get this car to >600 hp. Feel free to ask any questions. I'm an open book.
 
#2 ·
You did not dyno the car stock and have not dyno'd it after modifying?

What does your "butt dyno" say about all this? How about some pictures?

I would be interested to hear your review of how your car drives and handles now compared to stock.

Is your goal 600 hp? I wonder how the TF-80 will handle that power?
 
#3 · (Edited)
I will post pictures/videos soon. I LITERALLY just got it back from the dealership. I want to add a few interior and exterior mods myself.

I didn't dyno it stock because I have numbers from the factory (300bhp/325lb/ft). To me there's no point in a before dyno. Of course there is drivetrain loss, but I'm not that anal about the numbers. That's also money well spent towards more parts and labor. I do have a dyno session scheduled next month and will post pictures of the results. However, my "butt dyno" says the car is astronomically faster. The build exceeded my expectations. I knew the car would be fast, but not that FAST.

The car drives and handles much better than stock. No body roll and the car is glued to the street. Roll on power is amazing! You barely depress the pedal and it goes. The exhaust system allows more engine note and the engine mounts give a sportier feel (allow more rumble), which I personally like. It looks fast, sounds fast, but you wouldn't truly know the power it has until you hard press on the accelerator. Power is still linear, which is usable on any road. I thoroughly enjoy this car now!

I've already surprised a few American muscleheads on the interstate as well as a M3 owner from a dead stop at a stoplight.

My goal is to have a car that's not just race and track oriented, so I'm not sure if I will go for the >600hp, but it's on the table. Modding that far will cost another minimum wage salary. I'm currently thinking of upgrading the turbo and fuel system and leaving the engine as is...there will come a time to rebuild it and I can change the internals at that point if I choose to do so.

As far as the TF-81SC, it can handle the power I currently have and the power ceiling of >600hp. The TF-81SC is designed to handle 425-435 ft/lb without an issue. You can definitely give it more, but you run into the issue of it overheating. There are coolers/fans you can add if you plan to take it above the 435 mark. Built for Speed (YouTube) has a modified S60 that gets 380whp and 500 ft/lb on dyno. He had to add coolers and some internals that allow more fluid to pass through for cooling. Once you go over 400whp, you have to upgrade your conrods, that's it! The TF-81SC doesn't get the credit and recognition it should. It's actually quite strong.
 
#18 ·
I didn't dyno it stock because I have numbers from the factory (300bhp/325lb/ft). To me there's no point in a before dyno. Of course there is drivetrain loss, but I'm not that anal about the numbers.
You know the point of a dyno is to measure the difference across the graph between 2 data sets, right? Not having a baseline literally makes it so all you have to care about are the numbers lol. In cases like this you'll never really know what mods gained or lost power where in the powerband. Also helps you see if you have an underperforming or "friday" engine.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Here are a few exterior pics of my vehicle and a few pics of the dealership building her up. More pics and videos to come.
 

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#5 ·
Looks like some great improvements, particularly with some of the power upgrades under the hood. I imagine what was already a peppy ride now has a far more powerful feel.

As a Volvo newbie, I have a stock 2011 S60 T6 I’m currently looking at options for upgrading. It’s got 70k miles on it, and is already a joy to drive. I can’t realistically justify it all at once, so will likely slowly make improvements over a longer period. Figured I’d start with some low $ little items, and work my way up.

Current thoughts are:

1st items this fall:
Skid Plate
Rear sway bar kit and end links
Front sway bar end links
High flow air filter

2nd items in the spring:
18” wheels, with wheel spacers
Turbo inlet pipe upgrades (do88)
Do88 Intercooler

and then pending having some extra $$s:

Exhaust System (w/downpipe)
Polestar or IPD tune
Aesthetic trim upgrades (R trim or Heico)

What are your thoughts on that priority listing? The tune and trim are probably my lowest priority, particularly as figure a tune after other mods would make most sense
 
#6 · (Edited)
I would prioritize in this order. I will explain why below.

1. ECU Tune
2. Inlet Piping + CAI
3. Exhaust System w/ Downpipe
4. Intercooler + Charge Piping
5. Suspension Upgrades

1. There are several tunes and tuners on the market, however, if you go with the IPD P3 tune, I would get it first. Their tune calibrates to any bolt on mods you add to the vehicle. It will give you a significant power upgrade and continue to be enhanced with each bolt on upgrade. Their P3 tune does not calibrate to a turbocharger or fuel system upgrade. That tune has to be custom and IPD does offer that if that's a direction you're headed. I thought about getting the Hilton tune, but that tune has to be modified with each upgrade you bolt on; very tedious and not fun if you're modifying at a pace. The Polestar tune is basic and doesn't offer what IPD or competitors offer for a very similar price.

2. The CAI and inlet piping will give you a major boost and give you more noticeable gains. More air into the engine=more power. Buy one that doesn't have oil on it as it will ruin your MAF sensor. Elevate Cars has a really nice one that is not oil based and comes with a waterproof cover that doubles as a pre-filter.

3. The exhaust system will compliment the extra air from the CAI and piping and give you the sound, increase in hp/torque, and increase in turbo spool time you seek. IPD's exhaust system isn't loud; it is very neighborhood/suburb friendly. There are others on the market if you want more tone and more gains. Ferrita has the best downpipe, just FYI.

4. With the upgrade in the exhaust system, you will want to upgrade the intercooler and subsequent piping to cool down the exhaust gases rushing in and out of the turbo. It maximizes power output. When the air is hot, your ECU will slow down the timing process, minimizing power output. The big do88 intercooler with extended area is an optimal choice.

5. Now with all the added power, you will want to handle that power. This mod is next to last. I would make aesthetics last as none of those upgrades affect the drivability or complement the drivetrain as the others listed above. Once you feel and know the power of your vehicle, you can decide what to upgrade for handling. I strongly recommend sway bars, end links, bushings, and braces. Shocks and struts are an awesome compliment as well. I would only do the skid plate if you lower the vehicle or live/drive where there is a lot of gravel or trash that kicks up into the drivetrain.

There are other mods if you really want to take your S60 to maximum performance levels. The real question is how deep are you trying to get into the rabbit hole of modifications...dip your toes in, knee deep, or in there like swimwear?
 
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#8 ·
The stock brakes I have are BRAND new. They suffice for the moment. I'm also not out in the streets driving crazily were I need to brake that hard and the track here is closed until spring. As the saying goes, "with great power comes great responsibility."

My original post states that I plan to do a Phase 2 of modding (brakes, rims, tires, and front spoiler + grille) and I now also plan to add the do88 performance radiator and Heico speed pedal tune device. I chose to upgrade the brakes last as I wanted to know how powerful the vehicle is to know how much stopping power I would need and can base tire and rim size with brake size. I'm not just modding and adding things to my vehicle without proper research and science behind it. There are methods to my madness.
 
#11 ·
Having issues posting videos. Keeps saying file is too big or not supported if I edit it. Any suggestions or help would be great!
 
#13 ·
Sorry I'm just now posting the requested videos! Both were recorded in early November. I've recently learned some techniques and adjustments for a more accurate and faster 0-60. Will post more videos after this weekend!


 
#23 ·
I have a Dragy. I like to take before and after 0-60 and 1/4 mile times so I can objectively determine the value of my mods against other mods. The Dragy rocks. I haven't done much with my P3 XC60 T6 3.0L, but I did pull a 6.0 sec 0-60 one time which I thought wasn't too bad.
 
#32 ·
I’m gonna have to agree with @onlyjuancannoli here. I suspect there is something wrong with your tune as it seems no faster than my bone stock T6, or even other bone stock T6s. Either that or it could be that you’re at elevation, maybe air density is bad; I have no clue. All I know is your car should be way quicker than it is in those videos.
 
#33 ·
Used a dragy on mine the other day. 2100 DA and 75 ambient. 5.0 0-60 and 13.5 at 104. It has a lot more in it for sure, even stock.
 
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