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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wanted to get some advice on some uneven tire wear that I am experiencing on my 2007 S60R. I unfortunately experienced the EBD on a trip about three months ago and had to replace the propeller shaft as a result. After the replacement, I noticed a pretty significant vibration in the steering wheel at highway speeds so I had the alignment checked and the wheels rotated.The toe was slightly out on the passenger front and the driver rear. The shop noted that the tires had cupping on the inner tread, but they didn't think it was extreme enough to replace them. This helped alleviate the vibration, but didn't fix it. I then had the wheels rebalanced just to cover my basis...the balance was off by an 1.0 ounce on one tire and 0.5 ounce on two others. The tires are Continental ExtremeContact DWS with approximately 15k miles on them rotated every 3-4k miles. The R has 78k miles and has not had any of the suspension components replaced because it was running great before the propeller shaft issue. Does the alignment report make sense for the wear that I am seeing on the tires? Can you guys recommend any tests for determining which suspension components could be causing the tire wear?

At this point I am pretty sure that I need to replace the tires because cupping is only going to get worse, but I would like to fix the issue so the next set will last longer. I am pretty good at fixing, but lacking experience on the diagnosing. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

http://s18.postimg.org/kugsfknjt/Alignment_S60_R_Page_1.jpg
 

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Rear total toe should be as close to zero as possible. Check the lower control arms and strut mounts.
 

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If it didn't vibrate before you replaced the driveshaft, could the replacement be defective?

On your tires, people confuse cupping with heel-toe wear. Double check which one you have! Heel-toe is more common, it's when the front of the tread block wears faster than the rear. If that's what you have, it could be as simple as cross rotating your tires, although $$$ to dismount and mount directional tires!
 

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ditch the DWSs!

had to replace the propeller shaft as a result. After the replacement, I noticed a pretty significant vibration in the steering wheel at highway speeds
Therein lies a mystery... (is the new shaft unbalanced/bent/uncentered?)

Thanks to 4C's wantonly cruel and destructive abusiveness, by 78K mi the LCA bushings are undoubtedly on their way out, if they're not already shot.

DWSs -- at least the 94W 17" ones -- are no match for the R's mass and abusive suspension. And once they've begun wearing badly, it's all downhill for them. When that happened to the 2nd set (the 1st-generation set also failed...), I returned them for Continental Control Contact Sport A/Ss, a much better, more precisely built tire with a much firmer and more linear sidewall, which makes it less common for minor/gentle bumps to sneak up on 4C.

OTOH, I got the 94W CCSs 10/31/14 and by 5/10/15 I'd replaced 3 of them after they'd suffered road damage: when 4C crashes over big/sharp pavement breaks, it can damage the tires. That was true of DWSs, too, but their sidewalls are softer, so the jolt from 4C crashes was slightly cushioned, as was the resulting imperfections in tire roundness/uniformity. 4C crashes with CCSs are less common but more abrupt (...which is why I'm still working on endowing 4C with a 5th C, a conscience, to limit how abruptly it can slam on the suspension brakes, so the suspension never again goes AWOL mid-bump).
 

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Was your car happily side hoping in the right corner before alignment (in comfort mode)?

My experience with P2R suspension is that the bushings are too soft and you need to replace the bushings with something decent (like Powerflex) to keep the car planted.

There is a topic buried on the timeline of the r forum where I've battled the side hop. Pick your guide there and I'm sure you'll fix it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I took it into an indy mechanic that specializes in European cars just to get a sanity check. His opinion was that the bushings looked fine, but at least one of the struts was leaking and the mounts were pretty worn. He though that the tires were cupped to the point that I should get them replaced and replace the struts+mounts.

What kind of tire life should I expect out of a dialed in R? What tires are people currently running?

Should I upgrade the spring seats to the XC90 version?
 

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Strut mounts from XC90 - absolutely!

Tire life primarily depends on your driving style and suspension components & adjustments.
I'd say that my driving style would give me about 2 seasons on summer set and two seasons on winter set - which is by my standards very good.
Tire of my choice were Bridgestone potenza re050 and continental ts830.

Right now I'd go for Michelin cup 2 if I would be looking for new tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bought a new set of Nitto Motivo tires and it helped the vibration considerably! It also decreased the road noise significantly.

I also ordered all new struts, strut mounts and bearings to hopefully install next week. Expensive week, but still cheaper then car payments. Do I need any additional hardware for the rear struts? I can only find info about the front and upgrading to either IPD or XC90 strut mounts.

This forum is a life saver! Thanks for the help!
 

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Yep that happened to my car. I had a bad strut and the spring seat was totally gone on my 05 R with 73,030 mi. I decided to go all in and did full set of IPD track sway, IPD springs, new HD spring seats, all new shocks and HD end links. Man she rides better than new. Its how the R suspension should have been shipped. Initially I was only going to replace the bad one as a pair on the fronts but replacing all 4 is the way to go considering the life of the shocks is near its end.


I took it into an indy mechanic that specializes in European cars just to get a sanity check. His opinion was that the bushings looked fine, but at least one of the struts was leaking and the mounts were pretty worn. He though that the tires were cupped to the point that I should get them replaced and replace the struts+mounts.

What kind of tire life should I expect out of a dialed in R? What tires are people currently running?

Should I upgrade the spring seats to the XC90 version?
 

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Bought a new set of Nitto Motivo tires and it helped the vibration considerably! It also decreased the road noise significantly.

I also ordered all new struts, strut mounts and bearings to hopefully install next week. Expensive week, but still cheaper then car payments. Do I need any additional hardware for the rear struts? I can only find info about the front and upgrading to either IPD or XC90 strut mounts.

This forum is a life saver! Thanks for the help!
You are welcome mate, that's what the forum is for :)

I'd suggest replacing few rear bushings at the same time. But they will require removal of the exhaust, prop shaft and rear drivetrain. Are you feeling comfortable doing all this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am an expert at the prop shaft after the last replacement! I just got all the parts in for the struts and when I pulled off the wheels and did an inspection of the various components, the LCA bushings are definitely torn...Hounddogger gets the gold star for the day. The indy mechanic has also been fired as it is pretty obvious. So now the replacement list is going to be:

Front:
Struts
Spring seats
Strut bushings
LCA

Rear:
Struts

Anything else that is recommended while I am elbow deep in the suspension?
 

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I am an expert at the prop shaft after the last replacement! I just got all the parts in for the struts and when I pulled off the wheels and did an inspection of the various components, the LCA bushings are definitely torn...Hounddogger gets the gold star for the day. The indy mechanic has also been fired as it is pretty obvious. So now the replacement list is going to be:

Front:
Struts
Spring seats
Strut bushings
LCA

Rear:
Struts

Anything else that is recommended while I am elbow deep in the suspension?
FCA front bush; Strongflex kit or Powerflex. Strongflex is easier for install but it was $150us when I bought mine.
FCA fear bush; Volvo XC series
 

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Haha sweet. I know too much for my own good. Don't forget XC90 axle bolts (if the axle needs to come out of the hub) and ball joints.
 

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I don't think the alignment was out far enough to cause tire wear issues by itself. However, if you were carrying any sort of load for a long distances the right rear could have seen some accelerated wear. When my R was stock and the alignment "in spec" I saw some cupping that came as a result of loading the car and taking long trips. The stock springs are so soft and the alignment so variable with load that sometimes the alignment report by itself doesn't tell the whole story.
 

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I don't think the alignment was out far enough to cause tire wear issues by itself. However, if you were carrying any sort of load for a long distances the right rear could have seen some accelerated wear. When my R was stock and the alignment "in spec" I saw some cupping that came as a result of loading the car and taking long trips. The stock springs are so soft and the alignment so variable with load that sometimes the alignment report by itself doesn't tell the whole story.
You are forgetting that alignment is checked and corrected while no other forces but gravity are being applied. In driving, accelerating, and braking conditions your static alignment has no effect if your bushings are worn out. I'd say that all discussion ends right here!

If you wanna have your suspension done right you need to replace most of OEM bushings. I've been digging across the forums and the Internet for a while before I've abandoned it all and took the matter in my own hands.
One go pro camera was installed under the car to monitor the suspension components from different angles and we have came across some interesting shots on how Volvo designed passive steering on the rear end of the P2Rs. We have run the car in to 1 and later 2" speed bumps with speeds up to 60kmh and with car going straight, left & right. Under breaking and acceleration.

I'll look for the link with the write up on what I've replaced on the rear end to make it solid. Give me few minutes.


EDIT:
Here is the link
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?166926-P2R-suspension-solved
 

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You are forgetting that alignment is checked and corrected while no other forces but gravity are being applied.
I am not forgetting that at all, which is why I was careful to say that the alignment spec by itself wouldn't necessarily explain the problem. Other factors can contribute such as load and also wear of suspension components as you were right to point out. A good alignment shop should be checking for worn components, but I doubt many of them actually do. You are right that this is the first step in sorting suspension issues. Btw the photos in the thread you referenced are dead links.
 

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I am not forgetting that at all, which is why I was careful to say that the alignment spec by itself wouldn't necessarily explain the problem. Other factors can contribute such as load and also wear of suspension components as you were right to point out. A good alignment shop should be checking for worn components, but I doubt many of them actually do. You are right that this is the first step in sorting suspension issues. Btw the photos in the thread you referenced are dead links.
You only need bushing location chart from [email protected]'s post.
All the comments are related to that chart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I finally got the front struts replaced. The first one took me a day and the opposite took about 1.5 hours so I guess I learned something. The only thing that I am questioning in the top of the installation. Before I took the strut off, everything was touching and as you can see in the photo...I now have a gap. Did I make a mistake somewhere?



I am also including a photo of the lower control arm bushing. It looks pretty nasty.

 
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