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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After weeks of clunking in the front and a loose-feeling suspension I finally found the time to replace my worn out outer tie rods on both sides.
The job is fairly easy using common tools - it took me about 15 minutes per side, and that includes taking the wheel off.

Forgive my crappy tools....

Start by loosening up the tightening bolt. This is a normal thread. Lefty-loosie righty-tightie


Next loosen up the main bolt which attaches to the spindle. You might have to use a bit of force.


You'll notice that as you're loosening it up, the whole assembly will start spinning. TO fix that, simply hold the top part with another tool and prevent it front spinning. Preferably i'd use vice-grips here but I just couldn't find them


Yes - it's off!


Next you simply unscrew the whole rod from the steering rack. Be sure to hold the steering rack in place to prevent it from spinning


All taken off. Here you can see how much thread goes into the rod.


New and old. See how much play the old piece had?! The new piece is very tight and you cant just move it around like the old one


Install is just a reverse of removal


Now you can enjoy tighter, more precise steering. I took it for a quick spin around the block and the noise is gone. I'm getting it aligned today too.

Oh by the way, I was getting a clunking noise from the rear too - turned out to be a loose tool-set in the trunk :p
 

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Nice write up Tom...
BTW We're having a meet at Bald Hill next week (Tues night)
 

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Nice write up, thanks!

1 picture isn't working, though I still got the idea through your detailed explanations.
 

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Did you have to get an alignment or did you just guess on what thread to re-attach the tie-rod end to the steering rack? Just curious if I ever have to do the replacement in my R.
 

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Tom, we are meeting @ the McDonalds after you exit 63 North on the right hand side check the LI Forum for the time
 

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Did you have to get an alignment or did you just guess on what thread to re-attach the tie-rod end to the steering rack? Just curious if I ever have to do the replacement in my R.
It's going to depend on how the new tie rod is threaded. It will most likely end up off by about a thread, but that's pretty dang close, so shouldn't warrant a realignment. But it is always suggested.
 

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Good info, Tom, I just did mine a few weeks ago, and it is a quick and easy job, once you get the hang of it. In my case, the ball joint stud and nut were rusted solid, and I ended up cutting the nut off with an angle grinder. No big deal, added 10 mins to the job. I have a couple suggestions as well based on what I ran into:

If both front wheels are off the ground, you can turn the wheel away from the side you're working on to push more of the tie rod out of the wheel well so you can get access without climbing into the wheel well. ie: when doing the passenger side, crank the steering wheel to the left.

Give the housing of the ball joint a couple of taps once the nut is off can help the ball joint unseat.

Also, counting the number rotations of the tie rod as you take off the old one, then putting the new one on with the same number of turns is a good way to get it pretty close to the original position.

Again, thanks for posting, good info!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just got the alignment done and the car is back to normal. The steering is surprisingly tighter.
Oh, ended up getting 0 toe in the rear.

However, I still get a clunk from the front suspension - it's a "springy" clunk when I go over a dip .... doesnt happen often but it does happen.
I think it might be spring seats, but I only have about 15K on my new ones...hhmmmm Once it get cooler outside I'll start inspecting my front-end a bit more. Next thing in line are endlinks....
 

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This is a nice write - up! I'm looking at doing the same job just due to a vague/loose feeling in the steering. Probably more than one component, but here seems like a good place to start. Want to ask though- what brand part did you use (or have other people used?). I'm comparing the APA/Uro parts vs. the Volvo OEM ones and the Volvo is 4x the price.

So anyone have experience between the two brands? Improvements, durability/life? Think its worth the premium?
 

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Yeah tie-rod ends are very easy for anyone to replace. Don't let shops scare you otherwise!
Curious...how many miles are on your R that you replaced them?
 

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Mine's at 90k... Dont know if ball joints have been done on my car before i picked it up (78k), but i think those are probably worn too.
 

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Recommend replacing the entire lower contol arm if that is the case ajbell11, it's a lot easier and if you order the LCA it comes with new ball joints, order from Tasca or like, not sure the part number those and if its different for VR or SR... does anyone have that handy?
 

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Recommend replacing the entire lower contol arm if that is the case ajbell11, it's a lot easier and if you order the LCA it comes with new ball joints, order from Tasca or like, not sure the part number those and if its different for VR or SR... does anyone have that handy?
there the same between the two cars .

should run around $110 each

and your correct his lower control arm bushinngs look torn so ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I got the parts from tasca I believe - great deal.

Also, good catchin on my control arms bushing being torn - two years ago the daeler had replaced the other two bushes udner warranty, but refused to replace that one.
I guess that's being added to my to-do list
 

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I'm not sure if you order the LCA from Tasca that it'll come with ball joint and CA bushings... can anyone confirm? TASCA part number for LCA is 626501 for left and right.
 

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What about inner tie rod - does that need to be replaced too?
 
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