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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,
After lots of waiting and saving up for parts my V70 is almost ready for its roadworthy test. All that’s left to replace is the snapped bonnet release, brake pads and tires and then it’s ready! Once this is done i’ll finish off stage zeroing which is at this stage the timing belt, fuel filter and a proper oil change. Seeing as I’m so close to getting all this done I thought it would be a good time to start asking some performance questions. I’m looking for a more spritely drive from my GLT so I was looking at a few different upgrades. I’ve done a bit of research and narrowed it down to two different options. BSR offer a stage 4 tune kit which apparently is good for a 100bhp from only a downpipe, injectors and the 18T turbo. It’s 5k and doesn’t include anything like FMIC, air intake etc so I was wondering if any of you had some input. The other option was making the shopping list myself and getting it tuned elsewhere. I was looking at Viva Performance (should’ve seen my face light up when i found it) for most of the supporting mods and am pretty set that i’ll end up getting them from there. However I was looking at the kinugawa 16t. If anyone has any reviews on it it would be greatly appreciated. The last issue i’m faced with is getting it tuned. To my knowledge there’s no one down in Australia that dyno tunes volvos or the ME7. I don’t think i’ve seen any modded volvos here fullstop. Which leads me to my final question. How reliable/safe are the chip tunes from places such as hilton? If I wasn’t just a young bloke with no money I wouldn’t worry so much but unfortunately I am so if this motor goes pop it will be garaged for a very long time. Any and all information is greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking time out of your day to help me out.
Cheers heaps
Automotive parking light Car Land vehicle Vehicle Vehicle registration plate
 

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Nothing you’ve mentioned is a good idea. Keep doing research.
 

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performance questions.
BSR offer a stage 4 tune kit which apparently is good for a 100bhp
It’s 5k
How reliable/safe are the chip tunes from places such as hilton?
If I wasn’t just a young bloke with no money
if this motor goes pop it will be garaged for a very long time.
You need 2 cars. 1 can be your toy, the other your transportation.

It's not a wise choice to spend 5 times what a 22 year old Volvo is worth to make it less reliable.

What common cars down under have easily available performance parts that would make those cars a better choice for spending your hard earned cash? We all understand the need for speed but maybe something front engine/rear drive with a v-8? Doesn't Holden make a few choices?
 

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You need 2 cars. 1 can be your toy, the other your transportation. It's not a wise choice to spend 5 times what a 22 year old Volvo is worth to make it less reliable. Doesn't Holden make a few choices?
+1 for a Holden!. To bad we don't get those here.

I second these comments. At 22, you want something reliable and fun to drive. When you have extra cash for a second car that is your toy, then start upgrading stuff, or buy an M3 :) Leave the V70 GLT as is.

For context, my "toy" and daily driver is a simply tuned 98 C70 with an 18T, 3" downpipe, TME exhaust, do88 intercooler, green injectors, japan manifold ported, MTE stage III tune, upgraded suspension, steering, shock and struts, etc and tons of other crap. I have owned the car for 22 years and bought it right out of college. I started upgrade parts once the 100K mile warranty expired.
At this point, it has 330,000 miles on it. I am on my third engine, second transmission, and I have paid for mechanic's kids college tuition with the repair and upgrade install bills! The car is probably worth $500 USD to $1,000 USD based on the mileage, but I have spent upward of $10K on repairs and fixes/upgrades this year alone. Its currently sitting in my garage on jackstands waiting for parts from Sweden and Germany to fix the drive axles and calipers.

Bottomline=> Upgrades = fun = unreliability = repairs and money our of your pocket!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I thought I might get these answers 😬 I do have a second car that I can use as a daily (Land rover Series 3) and as for getting something like a V8 they’re A) ridiculously over priced (10k is as cheap as I’ve ever seen and they have been thrashed) and B) most of them have been outlawed for use on P plates.
I should make it clear I’m not trying to make the car some insane 500hp muscle car killer. Just a little bit more go and a tighter suspend set up. The only reason I mentioned upgrading the turbo is because the one on mine currently is on its way out. I completely understand where you’re all coming from though.
Cheers
 

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I thought I might get these answers 😬 I do have a second car that I can use as a daily (Land rover Series 3) and as for getting something like a V8 they’re A) ridiculously over priced (10k is as cheap as I’ve ever seen and they have been thrashed) and B) most of them have been outlawed for use on P plates.
I should make it clear I’m not trying to make the car some insane 500hp muscle car killer. Just a little bit more go and a tighter suspend set up. The only reason I mentioned upgrading the turbo is because the one on mine currently is on its way out. I completely understand where you’re all coming from though.
Cheers
A simple suspension refresh and changing the sway bars and endlinks do wonders to tighten the drive. However, once you starting thinking about "a bit more go", that where things can go south quickly since everything adds up. Something as innocent as a basic tune still needs a complete stage 0 refresh to be effective. But a tune can lead to a upgraded downipipe, bigger injectors, FMIC, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A simple suspension refresh and changing the sway bars and endlinks do wonders to tighten the drive. However, once you starting thinking about "a bit more go", that where things can go south quickly since everything adds up. Something as innocent as a basic tune still needs a complete stage 0 refresh to be effective. But a tune can lead to a upgraded downipipe, bigger injectors, FMIC, etc.
Already got the car stage 0. I’m very close to getting coilovers and away bars for it. I’m not in a dire situation for money and don’t mind the grind and work saving up for stuff. I’m lucky to have a job that allows me to save up cash for a house and a bit of splurging. It’s just what order I need to add stuff in because I don’t have enough to buy it all at once atm. I may just go basic with an intake, RIP kit, maybe a FMIC and downpipe.
 

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I want/wanted more out of my 2000 xc and did a LOT of research on forums back 15+ years on multiple websites. here's what I decided to do/have done:

a) Handling: sub-frame bushing inserts, strut brace, larger wheels/lower profile tires. I'm very pleased. The OE factory strut brace is a) Transformative, and b) still available and a steal at less than $100 US if you can find a dealer to order it for you. I got one this spring delivered from Sweden via Smith Volvo in SLO, CA for around $90. The strut brace should also be good insurance against future dash mount failure if you have not encountered that yet (a real problem).

b) Engine: Porsche Pierburg TCV, silicone lines (done). Upcoming: 16t turbo, inlet pipe, ex. manifold, Hilton Stage 1 tune (still to be done). That's it.

Many, many hours of reading and being very $$/results oriented made me realize the very diminishing returns of the bigger dollars for more things like a RIP kit and FMIC, downpipe (if I did find a used, affordable downpipe I would add that). Exhaust, airbox, FMIC, RIP kit, or much more involved Stage 2 tune all add a little "go" for much bigger $$, based on many user inputs I've read.

I'll do all of this for a little over $1k US. If I wanted to spend a lot more than that, I'd not start with a P80 but instead I would start with a base car that had a lot more potential, like a 2004+ S60 or V70/XC. For example, after all this I hope to about EQUAL the performance of my prior VERY well tuned Stage 0 2004 XC. And if I do, I'll be satisfied as the P80 looks are a little more "cool" and the handling inherently sharper, apples to apples.

This is my calculus from my situation and thinking. It doesn't have to be yours of course; we all come from different angles to the problem. I'm basing the above partly on personal experience with suspension mods and P2s. WRT to P80 engine tuning, I decided on this from the collected wisdom from others on this and the UK and MVS forums, where I have done extensive archive searches/reading and asked questions.

Scottish Brick has helped a lot of us quite a bit and is generous with knowledge. His curt message above is not entered lightly so don't dismiss it. There's a good bit of info out there about how to tune these, but it takes some searching and hours of reading/assimilating.
 

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Just a little bit more go and a tighter suspend set up.

I mentioned upgrading the turbo is because the one on mine currently is on its way out.
OK - I understand, you have a 22 year old Volvo Station wagon (still looks good, but it's a Volvo Station wagon), you are young and you want as you said "Just a little bit more go and a tighter suspend set up" and for some unexplained reason you think "turbo on mine currently is on its way out". What does that mean? Is the impeller touching the housing and making an obnoxious noise? If so you have serious oil flow problems that will need to be addressed.

With a tighter suspension setup on a 850 wagon you end up with the rear end bouncing all over the place. (in turns) The rear end is just too light to prevent that bounce - the R cars in that year range are bad about that. - So that's not much fun. - More HP certainly is a lot of fun - 0 to 60, and feeling that in your butt dyno is great fun - but at what cost? The little 5 cylinder is only capable of so much - but it is very capable of depleting your bank account more than you ever imagined!

Why not put a v-8 in your land rover and be able to do great burnouts that will NEVER be possible in a Volvo front wheel drive station wagon?
 

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Damn! With these comments, I feel like I’m over on MVS! A bunch of naysayers, LOL. Granted, I’m guilty of “warning” people about the potential money-pit that is a P80 Volvo, but you’ve outlined your financial footing and it sounds like your eyes are open and you’re good spending a little money to make your ride more enjoyable. I say go for the upgrades you want. It’s your car and your money. Do as you see fit. @ScottishBrick has commented on similar questions from other posters, so use the search function to find those posts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK - I understand, you have a 22 year old Volvo Station wagon (still looks good, but it's a Volvo Station wagon), you are young and you want as you said "Just a little bit more go and a tighter suspend set up" and for some unexplained reason you think "turbo on mine currently is on its way out". What does that mean? Is the impeller touching the housing and making an obnoxious noise? If so you have serious oil flow problems that will need to be addressed.

With a tighter suspension setup on a 850 wagon you end up with the rear end bouncing all over the place. (in turns) The rear end is just too light to prevent that bounce - the R cars in that year range are bad about that. - So that's not much fun. - More HP certainly is a lot of fun - 0 to 60, and feeling that in your butt dyno is great fun - but at what cost? The little 5 cylinder is only capable of so much - but it is very capable of depleting your bank account more than you ever imagined!

Why not put a v-8 in your land rover and be able to do great burnouts that will NEVER be possible in a Volvo front wheel drive station wagon?
You read my mind with the landrover. Wanted to put a old chev v8 in it. Unfortunately to get anything registered like that it needs to be engineered which costs a fortune and I wouldn’t be legally allowed to drive it for a few years. I understand your point and will admit that jumping straight to a turbo is a big step but I don’t plan on doing it until the currently completely carks it. It would be nice to have the supporting facilities to just pop a bigger one in. I’ve got enough collateral to swap the motor if it does goes pop but obviously i’d rather avoid that at all costs!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Damn! With these comments, I feel like I’m over on MVS! A bunch of naysayers, LOL. Granted, I’m guilty of “warning” people about the potential money-pit that is a P80 Volvo, but you’ve outlined your financial footing and it sounds like your eyes are open and you’re good spending a little money to make your ride more enjoyable. I say go for the upgrades you want. It’s your car and your money. Do as you see fit. @ScottishBrick has commented on similar questions from other posters, so use the search function to find those posts.
Thank you! I’ll be certain to have a look. If things do start to look a bit dire I probably won’t push it any further. May even consider swapping in a T5 if I can find one locally for the price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I must of missed this. Thank you heaps for this info. I’ll admit my research was pretty slap dash only because I’ve been more focused on getting the car to stage 0 and on the road. I imagine i’ve still got a few months before I start doing anything serious to the car. Cheers heaps
 

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Damn! With these comments, I feel like I’m over on MVS! A bunch of naysayers, LOL. Granted, I’m guilty of “warning” people about the potential money-pit that is a P80 Volvo, but you’ve outlined your financial footing and it sounds like your eyes are open and you’re good spending a little money to make your ride more enjoyable. I say go for the upgrades you want. It’s your car and your money. Do as you see fit. @ScottishBrick has commented on similar questions from other posters, so use the search function to find those posts.
MVS???? (My Volvo Sucks) what’s mvs?
 

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MVS???? (My Volvo Sucks) what’s mvs?
Another Volvo forum. Matthew’s Volvo Site. Lots of informative “How to...” instructional threads. The “vibe” there is always... “Why would anyone pay more than $2,000 for a used Volvo?”
 
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