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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok most things are new on my car bringing it to a Stage 0. I am fixing the PCV system now, but figure I might as well add a bigger turbo. I have had the car for a few years now with the stock 14T, 14 psi tune, FMIC, exhaust, new fluids, etc.

I was thinking a 16T would be the easiest since it can work on my 14T tune... but I also hear I will grow out of that turbo just as fast. So I am considering a 19T, 20T or K24. For the turbo, new tune, new injectors, and everything else I would like to spend around $2300, but up to $3000. What else would I need?

I have a ton of tools at home and a guy to help me with the install if I need. So the money can go all toward the parts.
 

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If you go more than the 16T you should definitely do a downpipe to help it breathe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a 3" catless downpipe and 3" exhaust on it. Honestly it's too loud/drone-prone with that so I'd probably keep the 3" downpipe and put a 2.5" from there back and into a muffler.
 

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I recommend you finding a tuner first, and ask for his opinions. 19t or 18t on a 2.5l lpt engine is a lot, and without proper tuning, you would be in serious trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the input. I contacted Robert (Lucky) from ARD today and had a very nice talk with him. I purchased blue injectors, a tune, and a 19T with the 11 blade compressor wheel. As my car is currently torn apart for the PCV (and now new fluids all around, again) I am sending the ECU into him for tuning. Plus the turbo is supposed to take 2 weeks for manufacturing, so I have time.

My other modifications on the car should help with this. I have a FMIC, HD coils, new OEM plugs (bosch), HD TCV, the turbo has the upgraded CBV and wastegate, new fluids, snabb intake, mani spacer, turbo back exhaust, etc. I am going to route a boost gauge I think, might as well.
 

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Thanks for the input. I contacted Robert (Lucky) from ARD today and had a very nice talk with him. I purchased blue injectors, a tune, and a 19T with the 11 blade compressor wheel. As my car is currently torn apart for the PCV (and now new fluids all around, again) I am sending the ECU into him for tuning. Plus the turbo is supposed to take 2 weeks for manufacturing, so I have time.

My other modifications on the car should help with this. I have a FMIC, HD coils, new OEM plugs (bosch), HD TCV, the turbo has the upgraded CBV and wastegate, new fluids, snabb intake, mani spacer, turbo back exhaust, etc. I am going to route a boost gauge I think, might as well.
Did he tell you where your car should be after all that?
 

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As my car is currently torn apart for the PCV (and now new fluids all around, again) I am sending the ECU into him for tuning. Plus the turbo is supposed to take 2 weeks for manufacturing, so I have time.
No no no no no. I cannot recommend against this enough. Take the extra time, and do not send him your ecu from a disassembled car. The reason for this is that if he jacks up your ECU, which he is known to do, he will say it's something you did and you'll be stuck in hell with a car that doesn't run, chasing problems that don't exist, with no way to get your money back (ARD has a no refunds, ever policy).

Yes this happened to me. Trust me on this one.

My advice, and you will be very foolish to not follow it: get the car 100% assembled, make sure it runs without issues, and then send him the ECU. That way when it doesn't work, you can confidently tell him that the ecu came out of a running and driving car. The extra week of downtime is cheap insurance against months of hassle.

And if my experience and advice isn't enough, here is a thread with a guy going through this exact problem right now: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?218254-S60r-not-starting-after-tune!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok well I can get it back together and running before I send out the ECU. That's no issue. I have heard bad things from R owners, but pretty much only them and now you. I just really didn't want to do a soft-loader option because of how much more it is. I also didn't have any other tuning options to choose from, so it was him. I mean I have heard a lot of good things from his stuff, and he did this build on a XC70 2.5T with a read up. I think that has 20,000 miles on it since then with no problems.

bicka0925, he didn't say because I didn't ask. A similar swapped XC70 that I mentioned with AWD and the same engine was at a 78 whp and 112 whp gain from stock. I'm not sure what the loss is in the AWD train, but I imagine at least 25% if FWD looses around 20%. I have crappy math skills but...

208 hp stock at crank, 20-25% loss is 156-166.5 awhp. Add 78 and that's 234-244.5 awhp (in his write up found here it was at 235 awhp so it sounds right). Anyway 315 crank hp with a 25% loss is 235 awhp, so I'd imagine I should have that at the crank after this is all said and done. I don't know if I'd trust getting 300 awhp over the internet.
 

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For the 19t lpt build blog from ARD, I don't think that car has all the bolt on, flow mods installed, so the number should be higher on a fully modded stage 3 car. Btw, you might want to make sure your ignition system is in top notch. When I did the 16t upgrade, my worn coils need to be replaced and plug gap reduced in order to solve the WOT misfire issue due to increased boost. But 19t on lpt is pushing the envelope and having somebody who has tuned this combo before would be very helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Yep all of that stuff is new on my car. I have new everything as far as service goes. From fuel filters to silicon lines, new injectors to new lights all around, new fluids (going in again), hd coils/tcv/cbv, fmic and full exhaust, etc/most all upgrades... I'm just going to look into adding another tranny cooler, and hook my boost gauge up. Maybe get a bung welded into my downpipe while it's off so I can run a AFR gauge I have by AEM. It's a wideband, figure it's not bad to include it. Maybe go with a prefab, nicer exhaust from the "cat" back. I don't mind the OBX dp I have at all, in fact it was an easy install and direct fit. I can see their full exhaust being decent and saving me $350+ over the other options.

How has your 16t been running since?
 

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Very good. I was interning right next to ARD during the summer, so it has been custom road tuned by ARD and myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Things are being pushed back a little bit. Paid $67 for overnight shipping through iPD and it isn't being overnighted. I swear it's never been more frustrating to own a Volvo (just kidding, it usually isn't that great for the money hahaha).
 

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Things are being pushed back a little bit. Paid $67 for overnight shipping through iPD and it isn't being overnighted. I swear it's never been more frustrating to own a Volvo (just kidding, it usually isn't that great for the money hahaha).
That's exactly why I don't do overnight shipping. I'll stick to basic.

About how long until you get the tune and turbo? Are you doing the conversion or buying a 19t turbo?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah I just have time off this weekend and it was going to be a nice time to do it. I'll do it after work on Monday instead.

The tune comes after I pull my ECU and send it in, time for the tune to be made, then shipped back to me. I would imagine the tool for ECU removal is coming by Tuesday, and it'll get back to ARD from me by Friday (either Priority or Express via USPS, it's decently priced and flatrate). The shipping back will be standard ground. As to when my 19T turbo is coming, that could be as late as the end of the month. It's the full 19T turbo with 7cm housing (exhaust side). It has the billet compressor wheel, hd wastegate and cbv, and the 11 blade turbine. I can't swap my 14T with any other turbos in this line, it's exhaust housing isn't a TD04HL just a TD04L which makes mine unable to swap with a 13/16/18/19/20T. It's ok, for $180 I would rather have him build the turbo in house with the balance so I can just put in on my car and be good to go. All gaskets are being replaced with this of course.
 

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I think the removal tool is good but at the same time unnecessary. I removed mine with a screwdriver before by shimmying the pink tabs
 

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Lol you doesn't hurt to ask and I guess doesn't hurt to have an extra tool though too. I want to keep your thread alive so I can base my purchases off yours. And also for other lpt volvo users can see so they won't have to ask questions later on
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah I'll definitely update as things happen. I'll have the car running as soon as my iPD shipment comes in, then the ECU out shortly after. If you can't wait I'd be more than happy to share my experience with you.
 

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Yeah I'll definitely update as things happen. I'll have the car running as soon as my iPD shipment comes in, then the ECU out shortly after. If you can't wait I'd be more than happy to share my experience with you.
Okay cool thanks

I figured out for myself i need about $1000 l. That covers 19t conversion wheel and cover, sending ecu to get tuned and possibly the 11 blade turbine.

I can either get that with my college refund check or the tips i make delivering. I really want to do it all at once but my girl would probably kill me. So I might just get a part or 2 a week
 

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Hey you have to realize that you dont have an r engine the pistons and connecting rods aren't made to handle R power figures thats is why everyone is telling you that your pushing that engine. all boost hoses should be replaced with silicone or atleast R hoses and R oep seeing as the standard lpt hoses arent v-band also check timing belt for tiny hair sized cracks no sense in killing the motor
 
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