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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone-

Well, I spent the better part of my weekend working on the 245 that I got over the summer. Some friends and I had the thing all apart and changed some things. New air and fuel filter made a world of difference. Some of you may cringe when you hear this, but it looks like both filters have been on there since 1986 and about 160,000. Not kidding! I assumed that my dealer did those things before I picked it up. Needless to say, it seems like a new car. (Yes the air filter was charcoal black)

Ok, I love this car and was wondering if it would be a reasonable task to pull off the valve cover and do a little tuning. My buddies are really interested in the car and are willing to help me through this. Is it worth it? God, my dad's has 350,000 and is still going strong without a tune-up. Contrary to my earlier beliefs about the engine, there is no knocking or pinging. Seems to be running great. Is it a bit too early for this kind of thing or should I just move on to the suspension and sway bars?

Thanks for your advice!


Chris
 

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Re: Tuning up my wagon...WOW! (MrGismo)

Enthusiasm - good stuff!

Before you order bars, shocks, wheels, tires, braces, cams, etc.

how about servicing the flame trap, throttle body, fresh air box/thermo, mass air meter, etc.

I'm ready.

George Dill
 

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Re: Tuning up my wagon...WOW! (MrGismo)

by tuning I assume you mean a tune up, and by pulling the valve cover I assume you mean a valve job. I don't think I've ever seen a b230 with valve clearances out of spec. That being said I wouldn't even worry about. You ccan go straight to the fun stuff, but what george said is a good recommendation. If it is your only car and/or you rely on it to get you places don't go over board. It's an old car and you should always keep some money set aside for repairs that are necessary to keep the car on the road.
 

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Re: Tuning up my wagon...WOW! (rs4-380)

Hello-

Yes, my friends were suggesting a valve job. Sorry, this weekend was my first time under a jacked car. However, I got a Chilton's manual, an empty shop and a couple of dedicated car nuts so I am looking forward to learning about it.

As strange as it sounds to my friends, I am trying to keep the car as stock as possible. (I swear, sometimes I feel like I am the only one that has a Volvo!) I figure that the design is sound and well throughout, so why mess with a good thing? I have had it almost a year and can see my self driving it for many, many more to come. I realize though, that I have to be careful and serious as this is my only car. I might be getting a car in the next 10 years though.... a 760 Turbo wagon to park next to it.

Anyway, YES I believe that there is a lot to do in the meantime before any "valve tuning" (Although the manual suggests every 15,000 or so). I doubt that it even needs it. Mostly preventative maintenance. Some of the planned things in addition to your suggestions include new rotors, brakes, sparkplugs & wires, vac tubes, and some new rubber mounts for the undercarriage exhaust for a quieter ride. I can manage these by myself with no problem. Your suggestions may take a bit more understanding, but I only need to do it once to understand it.

I really appreciate your advice so far...up until now; I have only been waxing and cleaning it religiously. (To the bewildered look of others) Can't wait to really get started, maybe this summer when I have a chance to earn some of that stuff called money.


Thanks again

Chris
 

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I remember the Bosch wires and plugs on my car were in such terrible shape it was unreal. I put a new cap, rotor, new Bougi wires and NGK copper plugs and the car suddenly seemed to move twice as fast. My air and fuel filters were also in really bad shape.

Replacing vac lines and replacing the flame trap system entirely also helped it run better. I also had a hot air intake valve stuck in the hot air position, which I also fixed and totally deleted the hot air system. As a final touch, I adjusted and cleaned out the throttle body.

All of this stuff really helps the B230F. Mine runs like new now.

And yes, dump that Chilton. Forget Haynes too. For a 240, the Bentley is what you want.
 

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Re: Tuning up my wagon...WOW! (MrGismo)

Unless this car has been really abused, it is not likely that it needs a valve job. Usually, the only thing that needs servicing are the little rubber 'dampers' that sit on top of the valve stem under the buckets. To do this, you need to remove the overhead cam and pull the buckets up. If you are going to do this, you will also replace the timing belt and borrow/rent a shim kit and buckeet lifter so that you can go ahead and adjust the valves at the same time - and might as well check the cam, aux, and front main shaft seals as well. If you have any desire for a cam, schedule this at the same time. And while you are doing all of this, check the water pump too. If you don't need a timing belt at this time, I would wait until you do. I used to change the shaft seals every other timing belt change.

In the meantime, go with the sway bars, chassis braces (upper and lower), and please check the rear suspension bushings - especially the big ones (special tool needed to change). If you do these, replace the torque rod bushes with the urethane ones at the same time. With the tune-up, this will make the car a lot more fun to drive!

Steve
 

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Re: Tuning up my wagon...WOW! (MrGismo)

Well I was the idiot that put a Enem V15 cam in my 89 244 and then broke the timing belt. So needless to say I bent every valve in the head. So I did my own valve job. Was a lot easier than I thought. I also ported the intake, exhaust and head. opened up the throttle valve and cleaned the injectors with an untrasonic machine and pressure fed top end cleaner. Made the unit out of my brake presure bleeder. I now have a very responsive engine from take off to top end. I know this is an undertaking but it was well worth it. But I do agree with everyone else that most 240's do not need valve work. If you think it does then do a cylinder presure check. It will tell on you quickly. if you find any low readings then add 2 tablespoons of oil to the cylinder and recheck, if no improvement in pressure then you have a leaking valve or related valve problem.. :<)...
 
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