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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've been banned from doing an exhaust, (the last 940T ran about a foot of exhaust pipe that exited at the pass window lol, so It's still gotta be quieter than a stock G35)

I'd like to eventually get about 350 - 375 at the crank. Nothing crazy but still want rock solid reliability. Will the 2006 Auto's handle this power just fine? and how about that angle gear?

My eventual idea would be

Rkelly intake
FMIC - either fuzzy's or using a core from my last volvo
OBX downpipe
and a chip (still debating about which one, I think i'm leaning toward Lucky right now)

Would these get my car to that HP range?
Also I would assume after these mods it could make a pass in the 13.5's at least? (previous 940 ran a 13.4 at 102 and I really don't want to have an R be slower than a 15g powered red block)

And lastly what order should the above mods be done in?

and please excuse me if these things have been covered a lot here, I'm still trying to figure out the search function here, it seems like it sucks quite frankly.
 

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You are not going to reach 375hp at the crank with those mods. More like 330hp at the most, not even considering that your keeping the stock exhaust which would restrict the engine.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong:

Ecu tune~25-30 HP
Down pipe~20 HP
FMIC - none
Rkelly CAI ?

330 HP seems a bit low for those mods Alfred
 

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Mods don't simply add up like math. If you don't understand that concept, I don't know where to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So the stock exhaust is that restrictive after the downpipe. Also when should the turbo start spooling on a stock car?
 

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Perhaps instead of being condescending you could enlighten me
LOL sorry, well calling me out wasn't too polite, I mean I guess people that know me on this forum, know me on a first name basis. Anyway, no prob I'll try to elaborate.

I'm probably not the best to talk to about performance mods. It'll be better presented by someone like soupsandspoons, KillerB as well as [email protected] and a few others that I can't think of right now. They will chime in. Quite honestly, I'm talking about real world performance and considering a used R about at least 5 years of age and 60K mileage at the very least (if you have 30K or lower, you have a new R man!), our engines would have a degraded performance and will not at the stock rated 300hp. Realistically your likely looking at 285-290hp or even less considering the condition of your R. No Stage 0 work will bring back that power unless you get new rods, re-bore and pistons. So I'm literally using that as a baseline.

Secondly OP mentioned that he won't be upgrading the stock exhaust, so no matter what downpipe you put into it, the restriction is there and it'll negate majority gains you get from the downpipe. As for Cai and intake pipe, those do give some performance upgrades, but those are like in the single numbers once you have the tune. Intake, cold air, TCV really just allows the engine to breath better for a faster turbo spool up, and not really as a direct HP gain. This also applies to FMIC which you know about. The most dramatic and best bang for your buck is the ECU tune, which does indeed unleash the first 20-30 horses, but once your there, Stage II will require all parts for an ECU-DP-FMIC-Exhaust for the next 20-30hp. And we're only breaking the surface here.
 

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So the stock exhaust is that restrictive after the downpipe. Also when should the turbo start spooling on a stock car?

from everything that i've read/been told, the main reasons to replace the exhaust on an R are aesthetics and sound; you're not gonna get the gains in performance that you're looking for. you're better off deleting you resonator and saving the $$$ for something more important (like repairs!).
 

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from everything that i've read/been told, the main reasons to replace the exhaust on an R are aesthetics and sound; you're not gonna get the gains in performance that you're looking for. you're better off deleting you resonator and saving the $$$ for something more important (like repairs!).
Not quite. Just look under the car. If you change the exhaust only without changing the downpipe, then it's near 0 gain(you might get a little), and purely asthetics and sound. Now if it's the other way around with the downpipe instead of the exhaust, it's the exact same, with no asthetics and no sound(well maybe a little). Just think of this as larger hose and a smaller hose connected, no matter how you swap them around, your not going to significantly pump more water unless you swap both.
 

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Not quite. Just look under the car. If you change the exhaust only without changing the downpipe, then it's near 0 gain(you might get a little), and purely asthetics and sound. Now if it's the other way around with the downpipe instead of the exhaust, it's the exact same, with no asthetics and no sound(well maybe a little). Just think of this as larger hose and a smaller hose connected, no matter how you swap them around, your not going to pump more water unless you swap both.
that actually contradicts most of what my mechanic told me...hmmm
 

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Also I would assume after these mods it could make a pass in the 13.5's at least? (previous 940 ran a 13.4 at 102 and I really don't want to have an R be slower than a 15g powered redblock
Well the good newsis, you can probably come out even with low to mid 13s with all the mods stated above. Thanks to drivetrain loss, weight, and our AWD system, Rs are not the greatest at a 1/4 mile, especially from a complete stop. But dont be sad, Rs are great highway cruisers and most potent while rolling.
 

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that actually contradicts most of what my mechanic told me...hmmm
I could be wrong, but that's my understanding of things, and unless someone who knows better corrects me or does a dyno test with an aftermarket DP and a stock exhaust. But even on paper, a 3" downpipe, connected to a stock exhaust with 2.25" pipe with resonator then split to 1.5" dual pipeS with crush bends with a stock muffler...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm not looking for another 1/4 mile car just was using that as a point of reference. Mainly my concern is mid range for passing and having fun on the dragons tail. If I do the dp which exhaust will remain fairly quiet under normally driving conditions. Just have to get it past the woman's notice.
 

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I'm not looking for another 1/4 mile car just was using that as a point of reference. Mainly my concern is mid range for passing and having fun on the dragons tail. If I do the dp which exhaust will remain fairly quiet under normally driving conditions. Just have to get it past the woman's notice.
Get a CNT downpipe which comes with a cat. And look the EST Touring system that includes a resonator. From what I heard, it is quiet during cruising, but has a growl under acceleration and WOT.
 

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Yes- 350 at the crank is attainable but you would have to complete the exhaust with something aftermarket
Yes- With those mods a 13.5 @ 104ish would be absolutely attainable.

I ran a 13.8 @ 104 with a horrendous 60 foot time (2.2). So assuming you can get a reasonable 60 time (2.0 or ideally lower) a mid 13 isn't out of the question by any means.
 

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Get a CNT downpipe which comes with a cat. And look the EST Touring system that includes a resonator. From what I heard, it is quiet during cruising, but has a growl under acceleration and WOT.
+1 on EST exhaust w/ resonator.
I have this exhaust and it isn't too loud and it gives a new growl under acceleration.

With all the mods u listed you will reach around 360~370 crank hp.
Just a stage I and exhaust will reach around 330hp.
Stage II with an aftermarket turbo back should reach 360hp and a FMIC will give u some more gain.
So your goal is reachable.

EST exhaust is 3" inlet to 2X 2" outlet so it matches a 3" downpipe.
If you have a 3 downpipe but no aftermarket exhaust then you do not get the most gain out of the downpipe because the stock exhaust inlet is only 2.5".
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ok so here is what i am thinking, Need to talk with ARD and confirm if it'll work.

Get a DP (prolly OBX as it's cheap,) weld in a electronic cutout that's activated and tuned under the advanced setting (maybe even tied into boost so it remains quiet at idle) but yet it remains closed under comfort and sport?
Best of everyworld? As I don't see the woman ever putting the car in advanced

I live in Alabama so emissions is a non issue.

Going that route with a 3 in DP and a cutout, Intake, FMIC, and an ARD tune for it all. y'all think my goal of a quicker spooling, and fat mid range powerband will become true? and a peak number somewhere in the ballpark of 375 at the crank?


Also do the Electronic Boost controllers play nice with our ECU's something like the Apexi EBC?
 

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ok so here is what i am thinking, Need to talk with ARD and confirm if it'll work.

Get a DP (prolly OBX as it's cheap,) weld in a electronic cutout that's activated and tuned under the advanced setting (maybe even tied into boost so it remains quiet at idle) but yet it remains closed under comfort and sport?
Best of everyworld? As I don't see the woman ever putting the car in advanced

I live in Alabama so emissions is a non issue.

Going that route with a 3 in DP and a cutout, Intake, FMIC, and an ARD tune for it all. y'all think my goal of a quicker spooling, and fat mid range powerband will become true? and a peak number somewhere in the ballpark of 375 at the crank?


Also do the Electronic Boost controllers play nice with our ECU's something like the Apexi EBC?

Add Snabb Intake pipe to that list http://www.snabb.us/Performance-Turbo-Intake-Pipe-04-07-V70R-S60R_p_36.html

you still need a decent exhaust to make all that come into play perfectly, EST exhaust w/ resonator would work for your situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So even with a dumped cutout straight off a catless DP ya think i'll still need to do the exhaust? I'll be driving it in advanced more than 90% of the time, and the woman will be in comfort and doesn't give 2 craps about the power. Just trying to get this by her, she hates when i spend car money or gun money for that matter. I slept on the couch for a week after buying my last Sig pistol.
 
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