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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seems like it's been a hot topic lately, so I decided to share some info.<p>OK, first off let's see what it looks like:<br><IMG SRC="http://img2.pict.com/cf/6a/89/e421b1dd92b1a6dd646a360d67/floLS/4737.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>The most common place for a clog is at the int. manifold inlet since it has the smallest diameter vent out of the whole system. Take a look...<br><IMG SRC="http://img2.pict.com/36/f6/5c/1181bc37f43b2626e8cc986350/LrRF1/dsc02901.jpg" BORDER="0"><br><IMG SRC="http://img2.pict.com/b7/5c/22/417e6c41adf1275406896f862a/BDPwL/dsc02904.jpg" BORDER="0"><br><IMG SRC="http://img2.pict.com/cb/83/c1/3681086226f7cf33cb914e5656/lVF6w/dsc02902.jpg" BORDER="0"><p><br>Now for troubleshooting:<br>1st step :check the pressure inside the crankcase. <br> My local indy shop uses a pressure gauge hooked up to the oil dipstick tube to check for pressure/vac with engine running, but you could get away without it. <br>Get a piece of rubber hose to fit on the dipstick tube, and then turn on the engine and "feel" for slight vacuum/pressure on the end of the hose (I just put the hose to my face or ear)<br>If you feel slight vacuum, the crankgases are getting vented and the PCV system is functioning properly.<br>If you feel positive pressure coming out of the hose, then you got a clog.<p>2nd: find the clog<br>So you figured out you have a clog somewhere, now how do you find it?<br>There might be a few different ways, but here's what I did:<br>Take off the pre-turbo inlet hose off the intake and connect another hose, something like this:<br><IMG SRC="http://img2.pict.com/86/c3/93/e78fd45282fef5ffd89c2b4ef4/9ZcOr/dsc02900.jpg" BORDER="0"><br>Not really necessary, but makes the job easier><br>Now blow through the dipstick hose you connected earlier(be careful not to spit in it, don't want that in your oil) and check at the end of the pre-turbo hose if the air is flowing out freely. If there's no restriction (should be able to blow easily without pressurizing the crankcase), you eliminate the crank vent hole and pre-turbo inlet, which only leaves you with the manifold inlet. <p>Step 3: cleaning<br>Disconnect that banjo bolt valve (which btw is an eff-in PITA, alternator is in the way) and clean it really well+ clean out the actual hose(I used maf cleaner solvent to be safe). Plug the pre-turbo int. hose (I used a round ratchet handle) and do the blow test again to make sure the int. manif. hose is clear. Put back together when done cleaning, and re-check the crank pressure. <p>This is actually a simple system, the only downside I see is how easy it is to clog the banjo bolt valve (very small diameter hole), which is why a properly placed catch can could save you some trouble. <p>Hope this helps <br> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Edited: Had to rewrite some stuff, seems my English is starting to suck again. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> <BR><BR>
<i>Modified by rushin_max at 1:11 AM 4-25-2009</i>
 

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Awesome write up.<p>But how did you replace those hoses and/or the oil trap with the intake manifold in place?<p>I looked, I can't get my hands in there at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: (T5 for Life)

First I had take off the air box, both pressure pipes (ote and throttle), the rubber coupler, and the throttle body. Make sure to get a new gasket for the tb. Then you'll have some room to work with.<br>To replace the oil trap, remove the clamps securing the hoses to the oil trap, the 2 bolts for the trap (the left one's a bit tricky), and just wiggle it out underneath the manifold. <br>The valve cover hose is straight forward, just take off the plastic cover, remove the clamp, and pull it off. These get really hard over time from the hot temps (almost feel like plastic) and will most likely crack when you remove, so have a spare . <br>The crankcase hose and the oil return like is pretty straight forward also, you'll figure it out.<br>Now for that banjo bolt valve, is a whole diff. story. In one of the pics you could see how close it gets to the alt. The only way to grab it is with a very short open end wrench (I think I used 11/16) and when you take it off, it jams against the plastic cover on the alt., so I had to trim a little piece to get the bolt out. <br>Here's what I mean(the red is where I "trimmed"):<br><IMG SRC="http://img2.pict.com/3f/1d/8f/6e0e22d99f72c5a71eb7e0dc35/1P8OK/dsc02901b.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>
 

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Re: Troubleshooting PCV system (rushin_max)

Sheesh, very impressive, and I was so proud when I changed my spark plugs...
 

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Re: Troubleshooting PCV system (Johnr352)

excellent, excellent information (beyond my skill level), but anyways thanks for sharing<p>n00b question: what are the symptoms of a clogged system?
 

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Great write up, I'm definitely looking this up when I need to change/clean my PCV system. Another cool way to check for pressure/vac is to but a rubber glove over the oil fill spot, it's both funny and sad when the glove fills up.
 

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Re: (Slvr S60R)

Max, that's what I was looking for! thanks for the info.<p>Doing my plugs yesterday, i was also going to tackle this. I have the parts already. But pulling the intake wasn't on my list of "things that sound like a lot of fun", and I couldn't get a new gasket at that time anyway.<p>I'll try it this way, but it still looks like a beeeatch to get in there.
 

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Re: (Slvr S60R)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Slvr S60R</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Another cool way to check for pressure/vac is to but a rubber glove over the oil fill spot, it's both funny and sad when the glove fills up.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>if theres vaccum, will it suck it in, and then shoot out the back until it fills up at the tailpipe? Can we take bets on if it shoots out the right or left tailpipe?
 

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Re: Troubleshooting PCV system (rushin_max)

Excellent write up!<p>As you described, I noted, when I was changing spark plugs the rubber hose that goes from the valve cover vent to the oil trap was indeed brittle.<p>There is just a pinch type clamp on it from the factory, and there was some oil leaking from it. I would recommend any time you are changing plugs to take a look if it is leaking, and if so cut off the pinch clamp, and use a 1 inch (25mm) gear clamp on it. Be careful, the hose can be brittle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: Troubleshooting PCV system (FEO)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>FEO</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>n00b question: what are the symptoms of a clogged system?</TD></TR></TABLE><p> Excessive oil consumption. I was going through ~ a quart every 1K miles. <br>Also, possibly blow your seals (cams+crank)<br>
 

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Re: Troubleshooting PCV system (rushin_max)

Hi guys,<br>I bought a used 2004 XC70 with 46,000 miles on it. It runs great and burns no oil at all. But under the oil cap looks sludged up pretty bad. I have been runing a cleaner called Auto RX through it and doinf short 3,000 mile oil changes trying to clean it up. Do you think my PCV system is clogged? Here are some pictures and a link to a detailed thread onmy XC70. What are your thoughts?<p><A HREF="http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1314044&nt=all&fpart=1" TARGET="_blank">http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...art=1</A><p><IMG SRC="http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i24/SkagSig40/100_2013.jpg" BORDER="0"><br>Here is the oil filter housing. Notice all the varnish on the metal:<br><IMG SRC="http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i24/SkagSig40/100_2011.jpg" BORDER="0">
 

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Wow, that is pretty sludged.<p>Sounds like some way over extened oil changes and some other mis-treatment.<p>Might need to engine flush that thing, and possibly sea foam the crankcase. Several times.
 

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Re: (chinaonnitrous1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>chinaonnitrous1</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow, that is pretty sludged.<p>Sounds like some way over extened oil changes and some other mis-treatment.<p>Might need to engine flush that thing, and possibly sea foam the crankcase. Several times.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Please check out my topic on this and let me know what you think:<p><A HREF="http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1314044&Board=5&fpart=all&gonew=1#UNREAD" TARGET="_blank">http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...NREAD</A>
 

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Without reading too much into it since its 14 pages.<p>Take off your oil cap while the car is running (dont worry, not too much splatter if any will happen), and stretch a rubber glove over it, if the glove gets sucked in, your PCV system is functioning. If it inflates, well somethings clogged. <p>It looks like the car might have been a prior lease? ... one that didn't change their oil regularly. Toyota Camry V6's had a issue with sludge that would build up due to the oil turning into gel. <p>Seems like something similar. <p>I have a 04 R with 60k miles and my cap, dipstick, and oil filter housing is immaculate. Then again since 18k its used Amsoil at 3~5k intervals. <p>Seems like Dino oil was used, and the car was driven decently hard causing hot aged dino oil to sit everywhere and cook. <p>
 

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Re: (chinaonnitrous1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>chinaonnitrous1</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Without reading too much into it since its 14 pages.<p>Take off your oil cap while the car is running (dont worry, not too much splatter if any will happen), and stretch a rubber glove over it, if the glove gets sucked in, your PCV system is functioning. If it inflates, well somethings clogged. <p>It looks like the car might have been a prior lease? ... one that didn't change their oil regularly. Toyota Camry V6's had a issue with sludge that would build up due to the oil turning into gel. <p>Seems like something similar. <p>I have a 04 R with 60k miles and my cap, dipstick, and oil filter housing is immaculate. Then again since 18k its used Amsoil at 3~5k intervals. <p>Seems like Dino oil was used, and the car was driven decently hard causing hot aged dino oil to sit everywhere and cook. <p></TD></TR></TABLE><p>I'll try the glove test...thanks for the tip! <br>Do you think the engine will be ok in the long term? It runs smooth and quiet and burns no oil. I'm going to use German Castrol full synthetic as soon as my Auto Rx flush is finished.
 

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Re: (SkagSig40)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>SkagSig40</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>I'll try the glove test...thanks for the tip! <br>Do you think the engine will be ok in the long term? It runs smooth and quiet and burns no oil. I'm going to use German Castrol full synthetic as soon as my Auto Rx flush is finished.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Seems like its at a low enough mileage, that you can reverse the crap that is in there with the RX, i've read about it, and it seems solid. <p>The glove test, just put it over the crank case fill hole (oil cap hole) and put your hand around the bottom, its going to be pretty easy to tell when the engine is running if the glove is inflating or deflating. Its pretty obvious.<p>Please keep documenting that Auto-RX and please post a condensed version for us here. Seems like a worthy product to document.
 

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Re: (SkagSig40)

I've changed my oil and filter with Mobil 1 since new and after 66K, had the trap and tubes replaced 2 weeks ago. My mechanic said he does 2-3 of these jobs a week on Volvos. Just may be a bad design.
 
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