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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am attempting to replace the Transmission Torque Mount (rear motor mount) on my 2004.5 S40 T5 and running into a slight problem. The 15mm bolt (982847) holding the actual mount doesn't want to break free. The rubber mounting is turning and tearing with it. I've watched MyNameIdeasWereTaken video and it sure doesn't want to come out as easily as in his video. Trying not to damage anything. Should i keep cranking on it? Any suggestions or tips on how to remove the torque strut bolt?

Thanks for the help.
 

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I read a thread about someone breaking the mounting point on the tranny while removing it and it causing a world of pain, so I would be careful with it. Soak it with penetrating oil like pb blaster and keep it soaked for a few days and then try again. You want it to get all the way in there and hopefully help it loosen the corrosion. An impact gun might be safer than yanking on it with a wrench.

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I would soak it more, and get a friend and longer breaker bar.
get someone to go under the car, and hold a socket onto the bolt to prevent it from slipping off, and get your bar from outside of the car and slowly pry it off. if your replacing the mount anyway you could try torching it-- kindof sketchy underneath the car but i think you could probably manage it, or like someone else said, impact driver.
 

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Be super careful! A similar situation happened to me when I was trying to remove the rear lower control arm bolts and the bolt had seized to the metal sleeve attached to the bushing. I ended up spreading the control arm to the point where I had to have the dealer take over. It wasn't one of my finer moments...

Basically, you don't want to bend anything because the bolt is loosening but not moving up at all. Not sure if this applies, but still...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Trying to be careful. Grabbed HF electric impact gun. No joy. Hitting it with PB blaster again from all angles top and bottom. I have a slightly longer breaker bar and can get a longer length of pipe if needed. I just don't want to crank on it too hard. Envision the rubber mount breaking free and bolt still stuck. Trying to avoid a mess like this. Thinking about applying some heat. Also thinking about getting some kano aerokroil. It's not a daily driver so I can afford to take my time, but don't want to create a big mess.
 

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The rubber mounting is turning and tearing with it.
Sounds like the bolt is seized to the metal sleeve within the rubber. Impact, heat or penetrating oil will not help. Might be time to cut or burn the rubber away.

But as mentioned, proceed carefully. Lots of steel-to-aluminum down there.
 

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Envision the rubber mount breaking free and bolt still stuck.
This is exactly what's going to happen.
You'll probably end up burning away the rubber with a torch & then grabbing the sleeve with vice grips or cutting it away. Don't try any brute force techniques as the "nut" is part of the subframe. Like Vee mentioned, if you just keep cranking the subframe will spread as you force the sleeve lower.
Order your new bolt now. The replacement has a narrowed shank so it doesn't seize so easily. Add a touch of grease & you'll be good in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sounds like the bolt is seized to the metal sleeve within the rubber. Impact, heat or penetrating oil will not help. Might be time to cut or burn the rubber away.
Not liking where this is heading. What happens when the rubber is cut or burned away? The metal sleeve will still be there and the bolt won't come through the sleeve?

 

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Correct again.
Remove the mount link from the transmission (3 bolts).
Now that you have some room you can cut the mount with a grinder, large chisel or some such. Break it apart as you go. Alternatively you might be able to jam something in the void so the sleeve doesn't turn.


 

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If you see the mount guts twist, it means the bolt is not seized in the frame, just in the mount. If you cut the rubber and remove the exterior part of the mount, it seems like the bolt will just spin out, with the sleeve. If not, cut it away like pczeilon indicates.
 

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Had this problem with mine. Took a long time and patience using a combination of 24" breaker bar and electric impact. Just laying on it with the impact can heat the bolt and sleeve up quite a bit. Between the heat and vibration mine eventually broke up the corrosion enough to make progress. I just kept going reverse and forward with the impact with occasional turns with the breaker bar to rotate things. 6 point impact socket to keep from rounding off the bolt head. I figured with just using the breaker bar I would eventually snap the bolt and didnt want that headache.

Before reinstalling the bolt got a good coat of anti seize the full length to keep it from welding itself together again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I just wanted to take a moment and report back. I finally found the time to tackle this job and rip out the mount as pceilzon suggested. I don't have a cutoff wheel/grinder so I ended up using a Dremel, compact hacksaw, and a very small chisel to break apart the mount. Here are a few pics for your viewing pleasure. I Will be installing the e-focus mount tomorrow. Thanks for all the suggestions.



 

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Great job, that bolt wasn't going to come free anytime soon. I trust you have the new Volvo bolt in hand. Please post a picture of the updated bolt to show how the shaft has a reduced diameter in the center so this problem doesn't reoccur. A little grease is a good idea also. You're going to feel great after this job is over. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Great job, that bolt wasn't going to come free anytime soon. I trust you have the new Volvo bolt in hand. Please post a picture of the updated bolt to show how the shaft has a reduced diameter in the center so this problem doesn't reoccur. A little grease is a good idea also. You're going to feel great after this job is over. :)
I have the replacement botl. I snapped some pics and will post them up tomorrow. Not quite finished with installing the replacement mount. That it would only take 15-20 minutes but ran into problems getting the new mount and torque arm to align with the holes in the tranny. The tranny need to move towards the rear of the car. I can push but there isn't enough movement to get things to quite line up. Any tips?

Thanks
 

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Floor jack....it looks counter intuitive but actually the mount moving the other way works- floor jack under the oil pan with a 2x4... Good luck!
 

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You can also loosen the 2 bolts for the upper right motor mount if necessary.
 
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