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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, I'm going to attempt to replace the trans fluid. I read this: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?81428-Complete-Fluid-Change-How-To

... and feel I have a good idea of what I need to do. I did want a couple things clarified though since JAGMAN was changing the fluid in his 6spd manual, not an automatic:

1. Is there a filter that needs/ should be changed with the fluid?
2. Is Mobile 3309 the preferred fluid.. or would it be better to use this instead since it's synthetic (and not much more $): http://www.ipdusa.com/products/7793/106978-redline-d4-atf
3. Do I need to have anything reset in the computer after changing the fluid?

Oh.. and any special tools I need to purchase before I drain the fluid again? LOL

Thanks!
 

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So, I'm going to attempt to replace the trans fluid. I read this: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?81428-Complete-Fluid-Change-How-To

... and feel I have a good idea of what I need to do. I did want a couple things clarified though since JAGMAN was changing the fluid in his 6spd manual, not an automatic:

1. Is there a filter that needs/ should be changed with the fluid?
2. Is Mobile 3309 the preferred fluid.. or would it be better to use this instead since it's synthetic (and not much more $): http://www.ipdusa.com/products/7793/106978-redline-d4-atf
3. Do I need to have anything reset in the computer after changing the fluid?

Oh.. and any special tools I need to purchase before I drain the fluid again? LOL

Thanks!
1-life time filter. You can change it if ya want tho.
2-yea, 3309 is the preferred, next is the toyota branded oil then next would be one of the Amsoil brands
3-if you have VIDA/DiCE you can reset the transmission service setting.

Are you flushing or just draining and filling through the dipstick?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
flushing.. the fluid is pretty dirty (Brownish-red instead of reddish-brown) & is starting to smell a little burnt.
 

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flushing.. the fluid is pretty dirty (Brownish-red instead of reddish-brown) & is starting to smell a little burnt.
Just order the iPD flush kit and the funnel and you should be set with everything you need. The kit comes with all the little clips and everything you would need. The funnel is useful also.

You could also just source a tube also from lowes/home depot or whatever. I'm not sure if the clips are reusable since I've never flushed before (THE TRANSMISSION! the toilet I flush tho :D) and also I believe on the Rs you use the lower trans line and not the upper, I could be wrong tho

Also, got my case of 3309 HERE


http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=8767
"Important- Please Read This First (Info for P2 Cars):
I need to add this information at the very beginning of this write up so that there's no confusion. What is outlined below is for all AWD/FWD Volvo's up until the design was changed for P2 cars ('01 and later), but the method is really the same. What is different is that the newer (P2- or '01 on) Volvo's transmission fluid flows in the opposite direction. In other words, when you take the tanny-to-radiator line off, you actually let the tranny flush out of the upper hose connection on the radiator with the newer Volvo's unlike what is written below (therefore you'll have to get clear tubing that has an outside diameter of 3/4 inch that goes INTO the ATF cooler on the radiator, unlike what is said below of a 1/2 inch inside diameter hose for pre '01 70 series and 850's), which shows the hose still connected to the trannyhose itself (earlier than '01 Volvo's). If you have a newer Volvo and don't do this, you'll make a mess as fluid will come flowing out of the top of the radiator. Several people on other boards have experienced this and were quite surprised (especially since IPD's instructions were wrong too). Volvo actually recommends for the P2's to take the hose off at the tranny, plug the tranny hole with a plastic stopper, and drain from the hose still attached to the radiator (which makes sense but the tranny hole is a biatch to reach). To disconnect the upper hose on the P2 cars, grab the green clamps on each side of the black hose, push in and then pull out. To reinsert, just pinch the clamps again and push the hose in as far as it will go and then release the tabs. For good measure, pull on the hose without pushing in the tabs to make sure it's secure. It's actually much easier on these later cars than on the older ones. You can get a case of the Mobil-3309 ATF fluid (JWS-3309 fluid must be used on Aisin Warner 5 speed automatic transmissions and not Dexron III)"
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks ion... Much appreciated!
 

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let me know how it goes.
 

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I just followed that guide on the M66 this weekend. I wouldn't recommend a total flush unless you have 30-50k miles. I would drain, replace filter, fill. If you want a flush, do it again in another 15-20k miles. I've watched a number of GM and ZF transmissions kick the bucket after a total flush.
 

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Yea If you have higher mileage or have never changed the fluid before I would drain, refill, drive a couple days and repeat and that should be better.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK.. so I'm doing this this weekend. Thanks for the link CandyChrome, you did a great write-up!

I got a flush kit ordered from IPD. I'm going with my gut & decided the mechanics at the dealership are worried about covering their asses and couldn't tell me that Mobil 3309 is just fine for my GT5... so I bought 2 cases for the flush.

Now, before I do this... is a full flush recommended for my car? I have 97500 miles on it. The service records show a valvebody replacement @ 62,546 miles. BUT, it looks like they only replaced what fell out of the pan ( Work order only shows a charge for 1 bottle of 1161640 Trans Oil). SO.. is replacing all my fluid going to remove all the wonderful goodness floating around in my caR's transmission and cause it to slip more than a bikini wearing hottie in an oil wrestling competition? Or should I be O.K.? LOL

Thanks all!
 

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I would say you should be fine. I flushed the first time a couple years ago with mobil 3309 and just a few weeks ago with the toyota t-iv fluid. Both times a noticeable increase is smoothness was noticed. My first flush was done about 75k and most recently @ 130k. Neither time did anything other than dark burnt fluid come out, no solids or anything.
 

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Anyone have any luck using the Seafoam transmission product prior to a dump and refill? Just wondering if it would loosen up some of the grunk and let it get out of the trans.

I am getting ready to do a drain and refill, because I, too, have seen several transmissions grenade immediately after flushing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I'm definitely no expert... but it seems the Seafoam dissolves any solids that accumulates. So that being the case, I don't think it would make anything worse than it already is. I also think that doing the flush using only the trans pump (not the high pressure flush pump your local jiffy lube uses) would not knock anything lose that isn't already floating around. Otherwise, it would have done it already caused an issue... right?

My worry is that the friction materials that have accumulated over the last 97000 miles and are suspended in the fluid are holding everything together. And, if I flush all that out, the clutches & bands won't grip like they use to, and cause a trans failure. I don't know. It seems to be an issue when flushing high mileage cars that have never been flushed or had a fluid/ filter change. Is 97000 miles too long to go without a flush? I can't verify if one was done @ 50,000 miles per the factory service schedule, and have to assume that it wasn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
LOL.. I know. Life gets in the way though. I've been working nights & weekends to meet a deadline.

Not only that, but you start reading more posts & talking to mechanics & you (I) start worrying about every little thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
No... this is why I've never had to pay a shop to do anything on my cars- except smog checks & the timing belt on my Honda. That thing needed the driverside fender removed to get to anything. I just didn't want to deal with it! LOL.

I research, bug the **** out of people who know more than me (like you guys), and get all the info I can so that I feel comfortable doing it myself.

I maintain my own house... even added 800sq. ft. to it. (I'm an architectural draftsman... no stranger to construction). I've maintained every car I & my wife have owned: '67 Dodge Coronet, 89 Olds Cutless Supreme, '90 Chevy Silverado, '99 Isuzu Rodeo, '68 Plymouth Fury, '02 Chevy Tahoe, '95 Honda Accord... and now this caR- which is by far the nicest, most technical car I've owned. I like a good challenge though. So thanks for all your help, seriously! I appreciate the advice (even if it's not intended as advice ;) )
 

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No... this is why I've never had to pay a shop to do anything on my cars- except smog checks & the timing belt on my Honda. That thing needed the driverside fender removed to get to anything. I just didn't want to deal with it! LOL.

I research, bug the **** out of people who know more than me (like you guys), and get all the info I can so that I feel comfortable doing it myself.

I maintain my own house... even added 800sq. ft. to it. (I'm an architectural draftsman... no stranger to construction). I've maintained every car I & my wife have owned: '67 Dodge Coronet, 89 Olds Cutless Supreme, '90 Chevy Silverado, '99 Isuzu Rodeo, '68 Plymouth Fury, '02 Chevy Tahoe, '95 Honda Accord... and now this caR- which is by far the nicest, most technical car I've owned. I like a good challenge though. So thanks for all your help, seriously! I appreciate the advice (even if it's not intended as advice ;) )
get to it boy! :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well... that was pretty darn easy. I could see how it would be a little bit more of a pain without another set of hands when it came to watching the & adding the fluids. I pretty much followed CandyChrome's write up to the letter & it all went fine. Used 12qts of fluid over all, plus a few 12oz beers, and it made for a nice Saturday afternoon. IPD flush kit is handy, too!

Thanks guys!
 
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