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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We've been using the local South Denver Volvo Dealer since we bought my wife's XC90 in '08 with 23k on it. 100K miles later they are the only shop to touch the car with oil changes every 4K miles, etc. Recently they finished construction on a state of the art brand new facility. I think I preferred the older building with the quality staff. Here's why.

I have an appointment tomorrow for an oil change, and to get an estimate on a transmission flush for the S80 V8. I spoke to one of the Service Advisors yesterday who we will call Brent, to get confirmation on the lifetime warranty if I buy Volvo control Arms from Tasca Volvo and have them install it. He doesn't know. That's OK. I can research it, or contact Volvo North America for confirmation.

Then he told me that his shop doesn't do a transmission flush for the S80, rather they do a drain and fill using genuine Volvo synthetic fluid. I tried to confirm if that was 3309 fluid, he said the car came from the factory with full synthetic, ant the price is extremely high because of the cost of the fluid. I'm pretty sure 3309 is not synthetic. The owners manual says JWS 3309.

Is that correct?

And the price: Only $420. I would appreciate confirmation that he is incorrect, and will probably call the dealer in Downtown Denver to schedule future repairs since I am losing confidence in the staff since a few people quit in the last few months, and $420 for less than 7 quarts of fluid...

TIA, and Happy Thanksgiving
 

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‘14 XC70 3.2 AWD, ‘17 BMW M240i
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You're right about the fluid type. Based on "Brent's" description I can't tell what they propose to do to your car. The Volvo shop manual procedure is to drain & re-fill the case, then refresh the rest of the system by pumping fluid out via the trans cooler line and refilling as you go. It takes at least 12 quarts (ideally more like 14) to do it properly and it does take a bit of time. I'd be OK letting them do that instead of using a machine although $420 seems a little high to me. And I'd be suspicious if they think they only need 7 quarts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You're right about the fluid type. Based on "Brent's" description I can't tell what they propose to do to your car. The Volvo shop manual procedure is to drain & re-fill the case, then refresh the rest of the system by pumping fluid out via the trans cooler line and refilling as you go. It takes at least 12 quarts (ideally more like 14) to do it properly and it does take a bit of time. I'd be OK letting them do that instead of using a machine although $420 seems a little high to me. And I'd be suspicious if they think they only need 7 quarts.
The owners manual says it takes 7.4 quarts. based on his description (which I will confirm today) they drop the drain plug, let it drain, then refill. If that's the case there is no 12 quarts, there isn't even 7 quarts.

I'll update later.
 

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‘14 XC70 3.2 AWD, ‘17 BMW M240i
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Dropping the plug and refilling only takes care of part of the system...3 or 4 quarts IIRC. If that's all they're doing then $420 is outrageous. The rest of the 7.4 quarts is held elsewhere (trans cooler lines, torque converter, internal passages, etc.). Using the Volvo factory procedure you really do need to go through about 12 quarts before fluid comes out completely clean. That's what I would consider a "complete" fluid replacement. That said, some people prefer to do multiple drain & fills over an extended period to gradually clean-up the fluid rather than doing it all at once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As for the transmission, the advisor stressed that he doesn't recommend doing a flush. Maybe if he prices it so high I wont do it. I'm probably going to an indy shop from now on. The guys that work on Porsches who I know from the track are capable of working on my Volvos. Her XC90 has been serviced by this dealer (oil every 4000 miles) or me.

Her XC90 is due for the second replacement of control arm bushings. at 72k i replaced the control arms with new units from Tasca Volvo. With the supposed lifetime warranty - which I am not sure getting is worth the money with the crazy quotes I'm getting from this dealer since they changed the service staff. The kid behind the counter jerked me with the strut quote, so I'm doing them myself. Now I'm getting jerked with the prices for control arms. It seems the price went from 750 in august to 910 today (plus alignment) and no confirmation of what parts exactly are being replaced (bolts?). A big part of the reason I bought this S80 was the service dept at this dealer which is four miles from my house. I think I made a mistake.
 

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Dropping the plug and refilling only takes care of part of the system...3 or 4 quarts IIRC. If that's all they're doing then $420 is outrageous. The rest of the 7.4 quarts is held elsewhere (trans cooler lines, torque converter, internal passages, etc.). Using the Volvo factory procedure you really do need to go through about 12 quarts before fluid comes out completely clean. That's what I would consider a "complete" fluid replacement. That said, some people prefer to do multiple drain & fills over an extended period to gradually clean-up the fluid rather than doing it all at once.
I personally think this multiple drain and fills (if done correctly to prevent dirt getting into the transmission) over a couple thousand miles and resetting (via VIDA) the counters is about the best way to do it as a DIY. In that case, I would use the Toyota 3309 fluid (same stuff as Mobil1, Volvo OEM, etc.) for ~$8 qt at the Toyota dealer.
 

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The drain & fill thing is what Honda recommends for my wife's Odyssey so I can't and won't argue against the principle. We bought the minivan well-used, cheap, and probably neglected (long story) and a drain & fill every other oil change has seemingly resolved the infamous "judder" that cropped up a while after we bought it. I'm planning to keep that up until it croaks or she gets a newer car like I told her to do in the first place. (Did I mention that was a long story?)

I did the Volvo flush procedure on my V70 at 75,000mi and again at 93,000mi with no ill effects (but also without any long-term benefit to the issues I was having). I agree that VIDA/DICE is really helpful if attempting this as DIY. In addition to the counters, the trans fluid needs to be at a specific temperature in order to set the correct level and this is the only way I'm aware of to read that temperature sensor. Otherwise I'd rate the procedure barely more difficult than an oil change.

I think Toyota calls their 3309 "T-IV". Their current standard is "ATF-WS" and my understanding is that it is a different spec...not interchangeable. When I did the V70 I found Mobil 3309 for something like $75 for a 12qt case.
 

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The drain & fill thing is what Honda recommends for my wife's Odyssey so I can't and won't argue against the principle. We bought the minivan well-used, cheap, and probably neglected (long story) and a drain & fill every other oil change has seemingly resolved the infamous "judder" that cropped up a while after we bought it. I'm planning to keep that up until it croaks or she gets a newer car like I told her to do in the first place. (Did I mention that was a long story?)

I did the Volvo flush procedure on my V70 at 75,000mi and again at 93,000mi with no ill effects (but also without any long-term benefit to the issues I was having). I agree that VIDA/DICE is really helpful if attempting this as DIY. In addition to the counters, the trans fluid needs to be at a specific temperature in order to set the correct level and this is the only way I'm aware of to read that temperature sensor. Otherwise I'd rate the procedure barely more difficult than an oil change.

I think Toyota calls their 3309 "T-IV". Their current standard is "ATF-WS" and my understanding is that it is a different spec...not interchangeable. When I did the V70 I found Mobil 3309 for something like $75 for a 12qt case.
I drive the wheels off my cars (until they die that is) and in all cases, it has been the tranny that has given up the ghost. We're talking about 155K on a 2003 Odyssey, 254K on a 1998 Maxima, 135K on a 2002 Optima, 253K on a 1993 Grand Caravan, etc. I'm a big believer in proper fluids and changes, filters and external trans-coolers.

Toyota still sells their T-IV fluid (Aisin spec 3309) and likely will for a good while to come. Seems to be very good stuff. Just wish it was a full synthetic.
 

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And the price: Only $420. I would appreciate confirmation that he is incorrect, and will probably call the dealer in Downtown Denver to schedule future repairs since I am losing confidence in the staff since a few people quit in the last few months, and $420 for less than 7 quarts of fluid...

TIA, and Happy Thanksgiving
That quote price is about the norm if using the expensive OE fluid. Volvo has always severely overpriced the "Volvo" branded trans fluid. Find a dealer or other garage who will use a less expensive fluid
i.e. Toyota Type 4, Moblie 1 3309, etc
 

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As for the transmission, the advisor stressed that he doesn't recommend doing a flush. Maybe if he prices it so high I wont do it. I'm probably going to an indy shop from now on. The guys that work on Porsches who I know from the track are capable of working on my Volvos. Her XC90 has been serviced by this dealer (oil every 4000 miles) or me.

Her XC90 is due for the second replacement of control arm bushings. at 72k i replaced the control arms with new units from Tasca Volvo. With the supposed lifetime warranty - which I am not sure getting is worth the money with the crazy quotes I'm getting from this dealer since they changed the service staff. The kid behind the counter jerked me with the strut quote, so I'm doing them myself. Now I'm getting jerked with the prices for control arms. It seems the price went from 750 in august to 910 today (plus alignment) and no confirmation of what parts exactly are being replaced (bolts?). A big part of the reason I bought this S80 was the service dept at this dealer which is four miles from my house. I think I made a mistake.
Trains "flush" on our 09 s80 3.2 fwd at about 110,000. Think they did the drain and fill, then ran it then another drain and fill as I saw 10 qts listed on the R/O. The trans blew up at 130,000. From what I hear you either flush at under 50k or you don't touch it at all.
 
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