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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm about to do a fluid exchange on my S40 T5 AWD M66: manual transmission, angle gear, rear differential and AOC. I've reviewed the many relevant threads here and feel relatively good to go but I have a question arising from a nicely done video of a guy doing this fluid exchange. When refilling the angle gear, rear differential and AOC he fills until the fluid drips back out of the fill hole but then he removes a seemingly prescribed amount of fluid--e.g., 40 ml. Can anyone tell me if this is per a Volvo-recommended procedure, is it important and, if so, do you know how much fluid should be pulled off for each fluid space?
 

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I filled mine with the exact fill quantity specified, however mine were out of the car, so I was able to completely drain them. If I were doing the in-car procedure, I'd just put the measured amount in a container & fill until it drips out the fill plug, so you know exactly how much actually goes in. What would be relevant ishow you have the vehicle raised - if it's not on a lift, the fact the car is not level will skew how much goes in.

The most important thing is that you are using the correct fluid. I don't cut corners with these, I buy the Volvo-packaged product, not an "equivilent". The M66 is easier to fill via the detent stop on the top front of the shift gate assembly. using the fill plug on the side is tricky.
 

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On my R, I just filled it until it dribbled out of the fill port.

I used Amsoil Severe Gear. It greatly improved the shift feel. I have a single mass flywheel, so I was partially going with the SG to see if it would help mask the tick-tick-tick-tick-tick-tick-tick-tick from the drivetrain. Otherwise, I would've likely just used the Volvo fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I filled mine with the exact fill quantity specified, however mine were out of the car, so I was able to completely drain them. If I were doing the in-car procedure, I'd just put the measured amount in a container & fill until it drips out the fill plug, so you know exactly how much actually goes in. What would be relevant ishow you have the vehicle raised - if it's not on a lift, the fact the car is not level will skew how much goes in.

The most important thing is that you are using the correct fluid. I don't cut corners with these, I buy the Volvo-packaged product, not an "equivilent". The M66 is easier to fill via the detent stop on the top front of the shift gate assembly. using the fill plug on the side is tricky.
Hey! You're the guy with the excellent pics of the detent bolt! Thanks! In your experience would I need to replace that part once removed? Might you know the torque spec? Finally, I'm also planning on replacing the driver side engine mount soon. I wonder if I should combine that job with the transmission drain and fill. Will removing the battery give me easier access to the detent stop bolt?
 

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On my R, I just filled it until it dribbled out of the fill port.
Seconded.
On the M66, I drained, measured, and was usually close to the 2.X liters it recommeded for fill. I have tried everything between 75w-90 and 75w-140 and MTF's of all sorts of brands (All namebrand and Tier 1 quality).

MTF's give the best shifting experience in all weathers and all temperatures except for 100+*F sitting on the highway for 30 minutes.
75w-90 gives you good middle of the road performance on everything, and doesn't succumb to heat issues like the MTF does.
75w/85w-140 gives you the best HOT performance, seeing excellent shifting feeling after warmup, but will STOP your engine if you let the clutch out at idle during a sub-18*F morning and notchy shifting when cold.
I recently put in some DELO 75w-90 thatsays it is rated for a 500,000mi service life, so far I have enjoyed it on my commutes, not really any issues. Some of us use OEM fluids, some non-oem fluids - the way I see it it's not like Volvo owns a petroleum plant, so they're getting their stuff from someone else - so I just pick my GL4/5 (I think 5 is what's on shelves now anyways) and go from there. Do what you're comfortable with - I don't think we've ever had a defined premature failure because Mobil 1/Valvoline/Castrol/ETC wasn't up to the task.

I fill my through the front detent (not the top) and a couple feet of tubing - but will be easier if you are taking care of that drivers side mount anyways to do through the top.

Rear Diff - I put in some valvoline gear oil - fill till it dribbles out. After warmup pop the bolt to let excess dribble out.
Front Angle Gear - Same thing - some valvoline gear oil - pump and measure removed, replace with similar. I pop the bolt and let the pressure out when hot before sealing for good.

Rear Haldex - Since no one knows what the fluid is, we tend to stick with OEM here. Filter replace and fill. RUn the car for a bit making sure to trigger AWD. Pop the bolt - fill till dribbles - drive and heat up because filter sucks down some fluid - crack bolt and let excess dribble out.
 

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Rear Haldex - Since no one knows what the fluid is, we tend to stick with OEM here. Filter replace and fill. RUn the car for a bit making sure to trigger AWD. Pop the bolt - fill till dribbles - drive and heat up because filter sucks down some fluid - crack bolt and let excess dribble out.
The VIDA procedure says to fill, then suck out enough fluid to leave the level 5mm below the fill hole. A few extra ml of fluid is likely harmless, and good insurance.
 

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Hey! You're the guy with the excellent pics of the detent bolt! Thanks! In your experience would I need to replace that part once removed? Might you know the torque spec? Finally, I'm also planning on replacing the driver side engine mount soon. I wonder if I should combine that job with the transmission drain and fill. Will removing the battery give me easier access to the detent stop bolt?
The bolt is reusable. I don't torque it, just make sure it's snug. It is coated with a thread-sealant, but if you've only removed it this one time, no real need to re-seal the threads.

Doing it with the left side apart for the mount will make it easier to access.

 

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Oh, be SUPER careful with the fluid.

I mean, it's not that big a deal if you spill it, but if it falls on your garage floor/driveway you'll NEVER clean it up. And it stinks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks much to all for your replies, info and suggestions. I did the fluid swap this past weekend. Info and observations to share post-procedure:
1. I used a mix of fluid brands, partially because I had an Amazon credit to use up. Transmission: Redline MTL 75W80 GL-4; Angle gear: Motul Gear 300 75W90 Synthetic; Rear differential: Motul Gear 300 75W90 Synthetic; AOC: Genuine Volvo 31367941, Active on Demand Clutch Oil.
2. I filled the transmission through the detent bolt. So happy to have that option.
3. I was fortunate to have no difficulty whatsoever in removing all four drain plugs, despite this being a 2005 S40 that has spent its entire life in Michigan.
4. I placed the car on four jack stands for the procedure. It was the first time I've been under a car entirely on jack stands. Because I was a bit anxious about it I loosened the 2 front end and two rear end bolts with the rear then front tires on the ground respectively. I snugged the bolts, drove the car to warm up the fluid then placed it on the four stands.
5. I used a variety of tools to loosen the bolts. Transmission drain plug: breaker bar and a 24 mm low-profile socket; angle gear bolt: 13 mm offset wrench; rear differential: 13 mm socket on a wobble/universal joint with a 3-inch extension; AOC: 13 mm offset wrench; AOC filter cover: 4 mm hex head in a 1/4" socket on a 1/4" ratchet.
6. I used a manual Mityvac for the drain and fill of the angle gear, rear diff and AOC. It was tedious and I was unable to get more than about 50% of the angle gear and AOC fluid out. But a partial fluid swap is worth something and I was able to verify that all of the fluid spaces were at capacity ... with the possible exception of the angle gear. I drained about 350 ml and was able to replace it with about 450 ml until it dripped back out of the fill hole.
7. The only notable snafu was that I had difficulty placing the new AOC filter cover. I had the old-style cover and the new one, a Bapmic aftermarket product, cracked as I inadvertently overtightened one of the bolts in an attempt to forcefully snug down the cover. It seemed to be a cheaply manufactured cover from weak scintered metal. I ended up re-using the old cover.
 

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Excuse my ignorance. PLease, which one is the detent blot in the above photo? The 24mm almost directly under the little rubber hose toward the front of the transmission?
 

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So this is what I got for the v50 manual transmission all wheel drive.
Is it all right?


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