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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know that I have to drain and fill my gearbox- 147K - 2006 XC70. I have seen many of the videos, some say- "Drain and fill...then do it again and again". Other say to disengage the trans hose and do that method- This scares me- I fear that I will not be able to reconnect the hose properly. I would like to proceed with the latter...anyone have experience with disconnecting the hose and then re-attaching? Any detailed videos ? How much fluid will I need?
AND...I also have to tackle the wife's S60!!! Mine is the practice vehicle.
 

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I know that I have to drain and fill my gearbox- 147K - 2006 XC70. I have seen many of the videos, some say- "Drain and fill...then do it again and again". Other say to disengage the trans hose and do that method- This scares me- I fear that I will not be able to reconnect the hose properly. I would like to proceed with the latter...anyone have experience with disconnecting the hose and then re-attaching? Any detailed videos ? How much fluid will I need?
AND...I also have to tackle the wife's S60!!! Mine is the practice vehicle.
You’re talking about the “gibbons method” (as I know it). Just buy a few of the green transmission hose clips and then there’s nothing to worry about.

The advantage of this method is if you use a clear hose you just keep moving a quart at a time out, put a quart in, rinse/repeat until your fluid is looking good.

It helps to have a helper to turn the car off and on when needed.


I’ve done this twice now to great effect. Don’t bother with the Volvo branded ATF, use Toyota IV. Same stuff, much cheaper.
 

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You can run about 3 qts out each time, use a graduated container (block it so it doesn't turn over from the fluid pressure jetting in). A helper is nice by not mandatory.

You really do want to do it in 3qt increments and not 1. That will help push the TC volume through at once and reduce the mixing in there. You will get a cleaner final fill with less waste that way. Pushing 9 to 10 qts through that way is adequate. Use a remaining qt to flush some of the PS fluid and renew. About 5' of a clear 3/4" OD plastic hose works great, jams in nicely w/o leaking and enough length to get to a container you can see from the steering wheel by the key switch. I have no idea who 'Gibbons' is, as the rest of the world calls it a "cooler line flush" and what we call it. You can Google that phrase also.

Local Toyota parts counters are often a good source for a case of T-IV, they'll sometimes give a discount for asking nicely. Summit Racing used to ship 6qt boxes of 3309 (exact same stuff) for a fair price, too.

(P80,not P2, but exact same process):
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You can run about 3 qts out each time, use a graduated container (block it so it doesn't turn over from the fluid pressure jetting in). A helper is nice by not mandatory.

You really do want to do it in 3qt increments and not 1. That will help push the TC volume through at once and reduce the mixing in there. You will get a cleaner final fill with less waste that way. Pushing 9 to 10 qts through that way is adequate. Use a remaining qt to flush some of the PS fluid and renew. About 5' of a clear 3/4" OD plastic hose works great, jams in nicely w/o leaking and enough length to get to a container you can see from the steering wheel by the key switch. I have no idea who 'Gibbons' is, as the rest of the world calls it a "cooler line flush" and what we call it. You can Google that phrase also.

Local Toyota parts counters are often a good source for a case of T-IV, they'll sometimes give a discount for asking nicely. Summit Racing used to ship 6qt boxes of 3309 (exact same stuff) for a fair price, too.

(P80,not P2, but exact same process):
View attachment 168145
Sorry, I was going with 1 because the OP is nervous about it. After I first got the hang of it I marked the container I used to 2 quart increments because I was operating the key myself turning the car on and off.

The important part is trying to put in as close to as much as you got out each time to make sure you’re not messing with the total amount in the transmission. I went kind of nuts with it because my car was at 106K with original fluid. Pushed about 12 quarts total to ensure all the old stuff was gone (overkill I know).

I don’t know if anyone can speak to whether this is a good or bad idea, but when I do it I kick the transmission into the manual mode and cycle through all the gears (a few seconds in first, few in second, etc) as I’m making my rounds. My figuring was this would make sure every passageway got some love, but admittedly I don’t know enough about transmissions to know whether that’s effective or not but I’ve done both times I’ve done a transmission flush 🤷‍♂️
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You’re talking about the “gibbons method” (as I know it). Just buy a few of the green transmission hose clips and then there’s nothing to worry about.

The advantage of this method is if you use a clear hose you just keep moving a quart at a time out, put a quart in, rinse/repeat until your fluid is looking good.

It helps to have a helper to turn the car off and on when needed.


I’ve done this twice now to great effect. Don’t bother with the Volvo branded ATF, use Toyota IV. Same stuff, much cheaper.
Should I put an inline filter in? Seems like a good idea.
 

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If you disconnect the return line at the transmission pan, you don’t need to fuss with the plastic clips at the radiator. That’s the way I’ve always done it, flushes the cooler that way too.

You’ll need 12-16 quarts to flush, and no need to run through the gears. Start the car and leave in park, and shut off when bubbles start to appear in the clear hose.

Joe
 
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RE: shifting - it’s a good idea theoretically, but it’s not necessary. There’s not that much fluid in the valve body passages, etc., and the distraction of doing that while watching the container to avoid overspilling or overshooting the mark is not worth it.

An inline filter is a great idea, but be sure to use a high quality one like Raybestos or something. I put an off-brand one (can’t recall atm) in the PS line of my step-son’s S60 and it failed, pumping all the ps fluid out. The threaded top portion just separated apart. IMO, if you are going to be good about changes, like doing a drain/fill every 30k, it’s not necessary.
 
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