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Discussion Starter #1
When doing the transmission/overdrive swap will the tunnel need to be opened up to fit the overdrive in like the PV544 swap?Just curious. I'm going to use the 220 shifter with the required mods.
 

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No, it willl fit OK. Be sure and hook up all the wiring before swinging the tranny up into place - you can't get your hand in there!
The old time shifter works GREAT! Other things to check include being sure the driveshaft fits the rear flange on the OD and is the right length, narrow tranny rear mount, etc.
You'll also need a longer speedo cable. Once you get it together you'll really like it. Makes final OD ratio about 3.68:1 which is great for cruising.
What year is your 220?
 

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When doing the transmission/overdrive swap will the tunnel need to be opened up to fit the overdrive in like the PV544 swap?Just curious. I'm going to use the 220 shifter with the required mods.
Did your P220 come with an auto tranny from the factory?

We are blessed with answers to all your questions - enjoy!

George Dill

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Wagon is a 64. Has standard but have a B20 sitting around with the tranny and overdrive on it. I have the 1800 driveshaft assembly along with the entire roof and tail from the 1800 wagon. Glad I saved the shaft. Not to be off topic but is the Weber conversion worth all the hassle? I have a used setup I bought years ago along with a header. Thanks for the heads up regarding the wiring and cable. Is there a part number for the exact cable? There's a lot of good info in the links. Thanks.
 

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I assume the Weber you're asking about is some variant of the DGV progressive downdraft. If so:

If the engine is a stock, healthy B18 or B20, the SUs are not worn and have the right needles, and the Weber is jetted correctly, performance is exactly the same with either carb setup. SUs will support a bit more power on an engine modified to have that potential, but both are fine at the stock power levels.

A well set up Weber beats worn out SUs, and good SUs beat a Weber that's not jetted correctly.

The Weber may have a slight edge in throttle response, and is more tolerant of imbalances between cylinders on a tired engine.

Most headers will be better than the early type stock exhaust with a single head pipe, which is quite restrictive. You'd have to couple it with a free-flowing system for it to make much difference.

Most headers will be worse than the later stock exhaust with dual head pipes, which is actually a tuned system. The various four-into-one headers on the market are not tuned for anything useful, the 4-2-1s have pipe diameters that are too large for anything short of a very burly engine and will cost you torque, while gaining nothing on the high end over the stock dual-pipe setup. The sole exception on the market right now are the Stahl headers, which are available in various sizes to suit different engine performance levels, but no header is going to do anything much unless you have way more overlap in the cam than stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Header is a cheap 4 into 1. I do have the newer cast exhaust manifold from the ES though it has been repaired. Is that the one you are referring to? I haven't really mapped out a plan for the motor yet. Kind of just trying to learn what works and what is a waste of money. I had the B20 sitting around and was thinking of freshening with a mild cam and plugging the holes in the head and going carb. I'm no Volvo expert but the motor looks like a nice piece to work with. Going over the brakes and suspension for safety first. Motor will be down the road a bit. I had a look at the B20 last night just to double check that it had the proper M41 tranny and not some odd ball I'd read about. Sure enough it was an M41 with solenoid on the left on the overdrive. Feel free to post any interesting engine ideas as I'm really only familiar with building SBC stuff.
 

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The ES manifold will do fine.

Which injection head do you have?

D-jet E head: Identified by the center bolt hole outside the valve cover surrounded by a circular (pretty much island. 10.5:1 compression.

D-jet F head: Center bolt hole bridged to the injection port forward of it. 8.7:1 compression.

K-jet F head: No holes on the side just forward of the exhaust manifold. Also 8.7:1 compression.

It works just like a SBC, except we have no aftermarket heads...
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I'll check the head tomorrow after work. For the 2 D-jet heads are we talking on the top and the K on the side? Ok I've seen pics of the F head so I know what you mean.
 

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If the head was original to the ES, it's a D-jet B20F. The low compression gives you more flexibility to end up with the ratio that you want, and the exhaust ports lend themselves to better porting than the E head, although none of them are exactly great. Getting the head work right is the most expensive part of performance mods, but most everything else is futile unless you do that first.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How much head work are we talking about? Any links for an idea? Has to work with pump gas I should add.
 

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The exhaust ports are terrible for flow, so you want to port those for a start. This really has to be done on a flow bench. If the budget is there, we weld new iron onto the port floors to get a more workable shape, but they can be improved somewhat without that. A one or two mm larger exhaust valve helps as well.

The intakes are not too bad, although they can be improved further. Do not go to larger intake valves.

Combustion chambers can be reshaped to unshroud the intake valves and to avoid trapping fuel the inevitably falls out of atomization getting past the valve, but that would be the lowest priority.

The D cam found in the D-jet engines (both versions) is really quite good and can be had for ~$100 -- I use those in lower-budget engine builds. No need to replace the one in the ES engine unless it's worn out. You can safely run 10:1 compression using premium unleaded with that cam. Of course, you want to fit exhaust seat inserts for use with unleaded.

The other trick, and one ignored by many builders, is to cut down the block deck so you have about .032" piston-to-head clearance at TDC, whatever that comes to with whatever head gasket thickness you're using. If the pistons end up .020" or more out of the block at TDC, that's fine if that's what it takes. This will greatly improve the squish/quench characteristics, which means a much faster burn rate. Faster burn = greater efficiency (both power and economy), less parasitic heating of the head, less ignition advance for optimum power, and less change of pinging or detonation. This is not particularly expensive as long as the block is already apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Phil,
I'm actually just reading some VClassics archives. I see you are the B motor guru. I have not determined how far I want to go with the motor yet especially after reading some of your articles. Machine work is the least of my worries.
 

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Thanks Phil,
I'm actually just reading some VClassics archives. I see you are the B motor guru. I have not determined how far I want to go with the motor yet especially after reading some of your articles. Machine work is the least of my worries.
Does your spare B20 need repair?

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No idea honestly. I pulled it out of an ES a friend and I parted out as it was beyond repair rust wise. All that is left is the tranny/engine combo, entire windshield roof assembly, driveshaft, grill and radiator. Turned over back then but has been on a pallet for years.
 

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No idea honestly. I pulled it out of an ES a friend and I parted out as it was beyond repair rust wise. All that is left is the tranny/engine combo, entire windshield roof assembly, driveshaft, grill and radiator. Turned over back then but has been on a pallet for years.
Is your wagon on the road?

George Dill
 
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