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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For those who ahve replaced this, did anybody have difficulty getting the 14mm bolts out of the transmission housing? The damn things were crossthreaded and were incredibly hard to back out. I snapped one in place and need to get a stud extractor kit tomorrow, the other came out but had what looked like solder on the tip of it, for a good 1/4" of thread. I tried threading that back in but it wouldn't catch right.<p>Needless to say, i won't be driving the car until that's fixed, but what a pain in the arse for what was supposed to be a 10 minute job.<p>I also undid the engine bar to strut brace conversion I did. The vibration, particularly with the A/C on was ridiculous, and definitely not worth the small improvement I may have noticed with it.
 

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Re: Tranny mount issue (T5 for Life)

My bolts were a major PITA to break loose, but they eventually did and I had no issues getting them out and back in with no drama. Sorry to hear your issues...seems like it's always the simplest things that end up taking way more time than they should.<p>Good luck getting it put back together.
 

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Re: Tranny mount issue (T5 for Life)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>T5 for Life</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn things were crossthreaded and were incredibly hard to back out<br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Mine were also <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> and it took <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/eek.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/sly.gif" BORDER="0"> to get it off
 

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Re: (T54life)

Mine required a little force, but nothing a large breaker bar could not handle<p>Maybe NE salt is to blame?
 

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Re: (T54life) (FEO)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>FEO</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine required a little force, but nothing a large breaker bar could not handle<p>Maybe NE salt is to blame?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Maybe, but my car spent the first two years of it's life in NH and later spent another 3 years in NY and mine weren't bad to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: (T54life) (Needsdecaf)

I'm suspecting cross-threaded from the factory. I've never had this much trouble getting a bolt out before. A rusty one will eventually start to move once you break it loose and back it out a bit. These required all of my conisderable manliness to turn with every turn. I was using a 1/2" ratchet at the time for move leverage, and went breaker bar for a few turns as well. Then...SNAP...followed by *(^&@#$ <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/mad.gif" BORDER="0"> .<p>
 

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Re: (T54life) (T5 for Life)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>T5 for Life</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> These required all of my conisderable manliness to turn with every turn. I was using a 1/2" ratchet at the time for move leverage, and went breaker bar for a few turns as well. Then...SNAP...followed by *(^&@#$ <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/mad.gif" BORDER="0"> .<p></TD></TR></TABLE><p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/eek.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/eek.gif" BORDER="0"> Good luck with the stud extractor then. That sounds like its in there pretty good!
 

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Re: Tranny mount issue (T5 for Life)

I'm stunned and amazed at how many bolts on these cars are cross-threaded...<p>I just discovered the front O2 sensor bung is completely buggered, and now I'm having a devil of a time getting the rear end-links to back off...<p>(you know they are especially bitcheous because you need an Allen to keep the bolt from turning <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/mad.gif" BORDER="0"> )<p>I blame the poor skill-sets and low self image of todays mechanics -- with all their power air tools they are clueless about "torque"... and entirely lack the "feel" of a part or bolt or nut going in or coming off . It's not just the auto trades either.... the framing carpenters who use nail guns ran a perfectly straight row of nails exactly 1/2 inch off the studs on the entire side of my house -- barely a handful of nails were holding the sheathing on.... <p>... on the up side, now that I know how incompetent and unprofessional auto mechanics are -- especially dealer mechanics -- I'm learning to do all the maint'. work myself <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>(if only I had a lift <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/frown.gif" BORDER="0"> )
 

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Re: Tranny mount issue (petew)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>petew</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>I blame the . the framing carpenters who use nail guns ran a perfectly straight row of nails exactly 1/2 inch off the studs on the entire side of my house -- barely a handful of nails were holding the sheathing on....</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Sounds like your house was built with factory made panels...and the nailer was set up wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (T54life) (Minn R)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Minn R</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/eek.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/eek.gif" BORDER="0"> Good luck with the stud extractor then. That sounds like its in there pretty good!</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Well, this was prophetic. The stud extractor failed miserably, succeeding in only causing the exposed portion of the bolt to disintegrate even further. So I hacked it off and proceeded to drill it out. Problem is, you can't get a power drill (read: corded) in perfect line with the shaft of the bolt, and it drilled at an angle. Either way, i went all the way through and the thing still won't budge. I ran out of time and will have to open the hole even further now.<p>I will probably have to put a bolt with a lock washer/nut through it now, as I'm sure the threads are pretty well fecked now.<p>Question..can it be driven with just one bolt holding it on?<p>oh yeah, the quick drive I did take with it indicated a much tighter shift sensation. I'd have to say it was worth it, despite my migraine.
 

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Re: (T54life) (T5 for Life)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>T5 for Life</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Question..can it be driven with just one bolt holding it on?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>I'd try to put something there, assuming that volvo engineers used two bolts for a reason. <p>Re-tap the hole, then drill out the mount's hole to math the new bolt size. Before doing this, go to home depot (or similar) to find the next size up bolt for you to use, so you know the tap/drill dimensions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (T54life) (S60R1)

i had the tap set out while I was trying to do this, but the problem is you can't get anything level into that hole. A drill goes in at an angle, and the tap has a T-handle, which you also can't turn due to limited clearance.<p>I'm going to finish my drilling the thing out more and sliding a bolt and nut through it. It will have to do. *)&&*^@$ thing!!! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0">
 
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