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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alrighty, I know some of you have tracked your R's. I'm about to do it as well, for the first time. So I'm looking for some tips to prepare the car, and any advice you can give for a first time.<p>About the car...<br>It had its 75k service less than 4k miles ago. So it just had a brake fluid flush as well as other services. Also has a new angle/bevel gear. Also getting a required tech inspection by my indy back home in Wisconsin.<br>Newer Hawk HPS pads at all four corners. Less than 7k miles on those.<br>New tires less than 3k miles on those (General Exclaim UHP. Great tire for the price IMO)<p>Any advice and tips are much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Track Tips (vizwiz)

Here's a pdf of the North Circuit which I'll be running on...<p><A HREF="http://www.drivefastbesafe.com/PDFs/northmap.pdf" TARGET="_blank">http://www.drivefastbesafe.com/PDFs/northmap.pdf</A><p>Opinions and advice?
 

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1. Your tires are weak for the track so take it easy you will slide into turns on those a lot easier.<br>2. Check that new angle gear make sure no leaks after driving a lot on a warm day<br>3. Check for lips on your rotors<br>4. Tape your lights and front bumper with blue painter's tape<br>5. Do you have a manual or auto trans? <br>6. make sure your air filter is clean. I would run a K&N and a CLOSED air filter case do not run open just sucks in hot a$$ air<br>7. Enjoy! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: (badams1897)

Lips on the rotors? I know that I do have a bit of a lip starting, but I seen it mentioned that its somewhat normal. No?<p>Will tape up the bumper. Have seen that done before in previous posts. What about behind the rear tires? Should I be worried about rocks, pebbles, etc, being flung up onto the rockers and rear of fenders?<p>I have the 6mt in my R.<p>I've been under the car a few times since the new angle gear for a lower trans mount install and an oil change. No leaking so far <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>K&N will be getting a cleaning after I get home. Been on my to do list for the last month. But I think I'll do it at home so I can use my mom's SS as a DD when the filter oil is drying off a bit <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>I know my tires aren't Kumho V710's or any DOT comp tire, but I'm pretty satisfied with them. On cloverleaf-style on ramps, they start just the tiniest bit of squealing around 60 miles an hour. I'm not trying to destroy my car, so I will not be trying to push it past its limits.<p>The first question my Mom asked me when I told her about the track day was "What happens if you blow up your car?" haha <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/eek.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/eek.gif" BORDER="0"> <br>
 

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Re: Track Tips (Rues R)

Drive fast......take chances!
 

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Re: Track Tips (Rues R)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Rues R</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>Newer Hawk HPS pads at all four corners. Less than 7k miles on those.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Hawk HPS pads lose friction RAPIDLY when MOT is exceeded. From <A HREF="http://zeckhausen.com/Volvo/S60R.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://zeckhausen.com/Volvo/S60R.htm</A><p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Zeckhausen</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>Hawk HPS high performance street pads have low dust, low noise, and low rotor wear. Slightly higher in friction level than Hawk Ceramic pads with a similar MOT of around 750°F. Not recommended for track use, as their friction level falls off rapidly when the MOT is exceeded.<br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Since Autobahn North is pretty short, you may be able to get 6 or 7 hard laps in before cooking the pads, so as soon as you feel them start to go even SLIGHTLY, head for the pits IMMEDIATELY and let them cool for at least 20+ minutes.<p>Take the backing plates off the front rotors, this helps keep the front brakes cooler BIGTIME and might let you get 10+ laps before your pads go. Just pull the rotors off and you'll see the three bolts to remove to get the backing plate off.<p>Honestly, if you still have OEM pads, PUT THOSE ON, as they don't fall off nearly as fast as the HPS/HP+ when overheated. Better still, just buy some Ferodo DS2500 pads from Zeckhausen, as well as the TiSpeed shims.<br>
 

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Re: Track Tips (Rues R)

The wiki here will be very helpful for Autobahn north:<br><A HREF="http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Autobahn_Country_Club" TARGET="_blank">http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki..._Club</A><p>Other general track day resources:<br><A HREF="http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Beginners_guide_to_track_days" TARGET="_blank">http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki..._days</A><br><A HREF="http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Advanced_Driving_Guide" TARGET="_blank">http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki...Guide</A><br><A HREF="http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Safety_at_the_track" TARGET="_blank">http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Safety_at_the_track</A><br><A HREF="http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Modifying_your_car" TARGET="_blank">http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Modifying_your_car</A><br><A HREF="http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/What_is_drivers_education%3F" TARGET="_blank">http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki...on%3F</A><br>
 

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Re: Track Tips (Rues R)

Well Rues, After looking at track map I would sugest looking at your Drivers side front tire after each session. It looks like that will take the brunt of the carnage hehe. Brakes will be next like Warped was saying, if you have stock pads atleast make sure to have them with you at track to change back if necessary. Be SMOOOOTH LOL you will get that in any class they teach you. Drink plenty of WATER stay hydrated you will be suprized what a day on the track can do to your body. Then have fun!!
 

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Re: Track Tips (ZekeUSMC)

1. Flush the brake fluid and use DOT4.1 or higher temp rating (Motul, AP Racing and etc). Prevent brake fade.<br>2. You may want to upgrade the pads to ceramics (Hawks, Porterfield, Axxis). Seems like a short course so not sure if you're brakes will take a beating.<br>3. You could run race gas if you can get it or at least octane booster.<br>4. Be prepared to slide around in those leather seats. You can upgrade to a cam lock seat belt buckle or the old trick of locking your tensioner and then scooting your power seats forward.<br>5. Check those tire pressure and adjust as needed.<br>5. Warm up those tires.<br>6. Don't lift (found that out the hard way)<p>Good luck and have fun
 

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Don't be scared when you stab the brakes and then the Panic mode takes over and you get 100%.<p>LOL
 

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Re: Track Tips (volvofla)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>volvofla</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. Flush the brake fluid and use DOT4.1 or higher temp rating (Motul, AP Racing and etc). Prevent brake fade.<br>2. You may want to upgrade the pads to ceramics (Hawks, Porterfield, Axxis). Seems like a short course so not sure if you're brakes will take a beating.<br>3. You could run race gas if you can get it or at least octane booster.<br>4. Be prepared to slide around in those leather seats. You can upgrade to a cam lock seat belt buckle or the old trick of locking your tensioner and then scooting your power seats forward.<br>5. Check those tire pressure and adjust as needed.<br>5. Warm up those tires.<br>6. Don't lift (found that out the hard way)<br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Regarding:<br>1. TiSpeed shims help a ton here too. The stock fluid is fine for OEM pads or Hawk HPS/HP+ as the pads will melt before the fluid (assuming fresh) boils.<br>2. Short course yes, but still a lot of accel, stop, turn, repeat. No long straights = no time for the brakes to cool. I don't recall what sort of elevation change is on the North course, downhill braking zones are bad news for brakes!<br>4. Lock the tensioner to hold you in, it works very well for me and the occasional passenger.<br>5. Street tires don't need to be "warmed" for grip, but you should definitely target a certain "hot" psi. I would suggest 37 PSI hot for 17s, maybe 1 or 2 higher for 18s.<br>6. Sounds like a good story, do tell! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"><p>Also, I would recommend Reducing DSTC at first, and going OFF completely once you're comfortable with the track layout.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: Track Tips (Warpedcow)

Okey doke. Thanks for the advice. Looks like I'll give John at BVV a call tomorrow and order some new front pads at the very least. I planned on having my indy do a complete flush on the brakes. Where's the best place to get the mentioned fluid, or are they something I can source at AutoZone, etc.<p>I take it when the brakes get too hot, they get very weak and don't grab huh? I'll make sure to keep that in mind.<p>I'm trying to visualize how the rotors come off, but my mind is reverting back to my K5 Blazer. Thankfully no locking hubs on the R. A refresher please?<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by Rues R at 6:06 PM 6-2-2009</i>
 

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IF your pads are out...<p>you may NOT have to remove the caliper to get the rotors out.... Maybe...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: (chinaonnitrous1)

I see how you are thinking. I'll give it ago just for ****s and grins when I get the car up on a lift later on this week.<p>Just out of curiousity, why do the Hawk pads not fair as well as the OEM pads when it comes to high heat? Just kinda figured the Hawks would be better?<p>Any tips for the handling over the car overall? I'm prepared for the oversteer it will exhibit at high speeds with stock sways, but I'd like some knowledge to keep it mind when it comes to combating it and hustling the car around the corners a bit faster.<p>And to all the contributors, thanks a bunch for putting my mind at rest with some of these things. I feel better armed for the experience. It's really informative answers to posts that keep me coming back to this site day after day!<p>Thanks guys!
 

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Re: (Rues R)

Dont do this...<br><A HREF="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxFkBlyHG5s" TARGET="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxFkBlyHG5s</A>
 

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Re: (Rues R)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Rues R</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I see how you are thinking. I'll give it ago just for ****s and grins when I get the car up on a lift later on this week.<br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>The caliper comes off super easy, just two bolts. Just hang it from the spring with a metal wire coat hanger.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Rues R</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>Just out of curiousity, why do the Hawk pads not fair as well as the OEM pads when it comes to high heat? Just kinda figured the Hawks would be better?<br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>The Hawks simply have a lower MOT and lose friction properties quicker. The OEM pads are quite good. The HPS/HP+ are really only good for creating less dust. Hawk Blues or other "racing" pads are what you need, or a similar semi-race pad like the Ferodo DS2500. Both will have plenty of cold bite at least in non-winter months.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Rues R</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>Any tips for the handling over the car overall? I'm prepared for the oversteer it will exhibit at high speeds with stock sways, but I'd like some knowledge to keep it mind when it comes to combating it and hustling the car around the corners a bit faster.<br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>There really isn't oversteer at any speed unless you lift off the throttle completely while cornering hard, and even then I find it quite manageable, even when I found myself entering a 100MPH turn at 115MPH, the back steps out but a quick correction and the car settles easily. IMHO the trickiest thing is getting corner entry speed just right such that you can get on the gas before the apex without understeering off track.
 

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Re: (chinaonnitrous1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>chinaonnitrous1</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont do this...<br><A HREF="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxFkBlyHG5s" TARGET="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxFkBlyHG5s</A></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Classic clip. Idiot somehow manages to oversteer into the INSIDE wall. Corrected far too little, far too late. It shouldn't be hard to prevent a crash like that, but I guess it is for some people... <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0">
 
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