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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey R fellas,<br>I am taking the R to an alignment shop on fri to get a custom track alignment. Got the camber bolts for the front from IPD and will try to get at least -2.5 in the front and max out the rear to negative. The extra negative camber in the front will also help with the clearance issues with my 245 tires +10mm spacers all around <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> <br>I am not concerned about the short tire life, I am trying to get optimal performance from the R.<p>Any ideas or recommendations anybody?<br> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Camber is dependent upon the track and reading tire temps across the tire until they are pretty close.<p>We run 1.5mm toe out in front, and 2-3mm toe out in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: (JoshV70_)

Thanks Josh,<br>I am looking for a setup that would be pretty aggressive for track but still drivable on the street. Does the toe adjustment really make that big of a difference?
 

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Definitely. I'd suggest getting a set of toe plates (around $110 or so) and a digital camber gauge ($250 or so) from Longacre Racing so you can do it yourself...pretty easy. Might also want to pick up a pyrometer as well.
 

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Re: (JoshV70_)

More camber the better on the track... then dial it down for daily driving. If you have an iphone you can get a camber application. Thats how I do it. <p>On my E30 track car i run -3.5 camber in the front and 1/16 toe out for autocross and then no toe for the track. The rear is at -1 camber. I also run full strut braces and under braces with 22mm/19mm sway bars. Causes for nice front tire lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: (p0cket penguins)

Ok so no one came up with recommended settings for the R so I will go with:<br>FRONT: -2.5 camber/1.5mm toe out <br>REAR: -2.0 camber/2mm toe out<p>I will think of setting back to normal after the track. <p>Thanks guys! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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You definitely want the rear of these cars more stiff than the front.
 

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Re: (EAX)

Right hand circuit. Right hand drive on regular roads, i.e. roads generally slopes towards the left. You'd probably need to flip the figures left and right for US roads, but for right handed track circuits (i.e. clockwise), it works well for me.<p>Lowered with eibach springs.<p>Left front:<br>-2deg30' camber<br>-0deg10' toe<p>Right front:<br>-1deg30' camber<br>-0deg10' toe<p>Left rear:<br>-2deg camber<br>0deg05' toe<p>Right rear:<br>-1deg20' camber<br>0deg05' toe<p>To get beyond -1deg30' camber for the fronts, you will need to file the wheel knuckles top part down, as they will be blocked by the struts. Camber bolts are of no help. You will need to elongate the top bolt hole in the wheel knuckle (not the strut) so that you can get the top in as far as possible while pulling the bottom out. Do not elongate the bottom wheel knuckle bolt hole.<p>Camber for the rears are fixed. You get what you can from lowering the ride height.<p>Main problem is getting enough -ve camber in the fronts. Best for track is about -3deg to -3.5degs. For street use, best is -1.5deg. I live with the compromise as I've filed the top knuckles as much as I'd dare.<p>Another problem is bump steer. For rides that have been lowered by an inch or so, the tie-rod geometry is changed such that when the car lifts, the front toe becomes more positive. Only way to solve that is to modify the outer tie rod end with a longer taper, thus lowering the outer tie rod back to roughly the amount the car was lowered to, i.e. tie rod parallel to road surface.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: (blot)

Thanks blot! That is Awesome. I will consider your advice and settings.<br>It is great to get an advice from one of the most experienced track enthusiasts on the board. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"><br>By the way how is your R running after all the track days you have done with it? Any serious mechanical issues. Have you rebuild your engine yet or it is still running well?
 

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Re: (EAX)

Engine is still fine. Only the cam cover gasket had to be resealed.<p>But there have been other wear and tear like oil and coolant lines (rubber) to the turbo which just started cracking due to age and heat. Other stuff like o-rings for the power steering lines, brake servo needed a change. The collar gear was also just replaced, and my fuel pump housing finally cracked. The latter was easily solved by epoxying the top of the housing.<p>See here for other stuff that generally needed replacing once a while: <A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=51657&postid=1238500#1238500" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/z...38500</A>
 

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Re: (blot)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>blot</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Best for track is about -3deg to -3.5degs. For street use, best is -1.5deg.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>This from Hoosier racing tires...<br><I>For optimum performance the Hoosier P-Metric radial tires require about 3 degrees of camber. There will be a trade off in maximum performance to maximize wear. Generally, 1/2 degrees less than optimum will result in the best compromise for wear and speed. Less than 2.5 degrees can result in excessive wear on the shoulder junction.</I><p>We have consensus!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: (Dyno)

Dyno, are you going to the autobahn on monday ? I will be there with the R.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: (Dyno)

OK<br>yep hope it doesn't rain, but it doesn't look very promissing. Make sure you take your wet tires if you are running slicks.
 
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