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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I'm right about to start the job to replace the Exhaust and intake CAM seals on a 2004 XC90 2.5T FWD. However, I hear there's a T50 bolt that's going to take upwards of 100ft-lbs of force. I do not want to strip the bolt.

I have a few Harbor freights really close buy. I was curious if anyone has any experience with the HF torque set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-38 ... 67887.html
I was thinking this specific set because:
1. It's cheap
2. Looks sturdy
3. Looks short enough to possibly be useful for the serpentine tensioner

I know there are higher quality equipment out there - craftsman, snap-on. I'm not looking for the Rolls-Royce of tools... just looking for the set that'll do the job, every time.

Please let me know if you have any experience on this job. Any advice (regarding tool or even the job itself) would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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First, it's a Torx 55 bolt. If you use a T50 socket on it, you may well strip it.

Second, I don't trust HF crap for something that if it fails, I'm going to get hurt. I've used a T55 by Lyle (available at Sears). I could trust Craftsman as well.
 

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The husky torx sockets are very good. I would stay away from Harbor freight for something like this. It's not common for a torx to require that much force.

Sent from my HTC M9 using Tapatalk
 

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. I've used a T55 by Lyle (available at Sears). I could trust Craftsman as well.
+1 (Have the whole lyle torx set from sears)

Don't forget, you'll need the rear cam lock tool ($100) (need to remove and reattach the from cam wheels)and a good torque bar. If I recall from last month, the cam wheels are torqued to 88ft/lb.
 

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Best if you can find a set that's (a) single cast solid steel and (b) low profile. You'll see soon enough that the space between the inside fender and the exhaust hub is very tight. And trying to do this without locking the cams from the rear is a non-starter. I'm assuming you have a good means of seating the seals? Was a post at one point where someone made a "tool" out of PVC pipe to get the seal to sit fully square. I used a seal set to do mine (Volvo of course has a "special" tool for this).

Job looks like this: http://www.ondemand5.com/mric/common/asp/annotationattachment.aspx?fileid=6198

Both seals a problem that prompt you to replace them or just the exhaust? If it’s just the exhaust leaking, good to have a look at the in-out play on the hub itself when you do the seal. Did a write-up on this a year or so back where, after replacing the seals, I ended up doing a new hub (plus new seal): http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?211289-Exhaust-Camshaft-Front-Seal-Leak-2005-2-5T

Out of curiosity, did you do your own timing belt and tensioner already? This is a perfect job to combine. And I’ll assume you know about getting the VVT hubs all aligned? Read about it in the "Job" link, second part. If you miss it, you’ll get a CEL (VVT swing will be out of tolerance with the rear sensor for one or both hubs).

Figured to ask these questions now. Good luck !
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Best if you can find a set that's (a) single cast solid steel and (b) low profile. You'll see soon enough that the space between the inside fender and the exhaust hub is very tight. And trying to do this without locking the cams from the rear is a non-starter. I'm assuming you have a good means of seating the seals? Was a post at one point where someone made a "tool" out of PVC pipe to get the seal to sit fully square. I used a seal set to do mine (Volvo of course has a "special" tool for this).

Job looks like this: http://www.ondemand5.com/mric/common/asp/annotationattachment.aspx?fileid=6198

Both seals a problem that prompt you to replace them or just the exhaust? If it’s just the exhaust leaking, good to have a look at the in-out play on the hub itself when you do the seal. Did a write-up on this a year or so back where, after replacing the seals, I ended up doing a new hub (plus new seal): http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?211289-Exhaust-Camshaft-Front-Seal-Leak-2005-2-5T

Out of curiosity, did you do your own timing belt and tensioner already? This is a perfect job to combine. And I’ll assume you know about getting the VVT hubs all aligned? Read about it in the "Job" link, second part. If you miss it, you’ll get a CEL (VVT swing will be out of tolerance with the rear sensor for one or both hubs).

Figured to ask these questions now. Good luck !
Thanks for the tips! I am planning to do the timing belt and water pump with this job as well. I have run into an issue already though. Sadly, I can't seem to gain access to the exhaust cam sensor screw. There's a bracket blocking my way. I have removed the top engine mount and now I'm stuck. Do you have any suggestions on how to get to the rear of the exhaust cam so that i can use the tool to lock it down? I see 3 bolts, but i'm not 100% certain it'll release the bracket. I put a wrench on them and they're super tight. Is this normal?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Best if you can find a set that's (a) single cast solid steel and (b) low profile. You'll see soon enough that the space between the inside fender and the exhaust hub is very tight. And trying to do this without locking the cams from the rear is a non-starter. I'm assuming you have a good means of seating the seals? Was a post at one point where someone made a "tool" out of PVC pipe to get the seal to sit fully square. I used a seal set to do mine (Volvo of course has a "special" tool for this).

Job looks like this: http://www.ondemand5.com/mric/common/asp/annotationattachment.aspx?fileid=6198

Both seals a problem that prompt you to replace them or just the exhaust? If it’s just the exhaust leaking, good to have a look at the in-out play on the hub itself when you do the seal. Did a write-up on this a year or so back where, after replacing the seals, I ended up doing a new hub (plus new seal): http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?211289-Exhaust-Camshaft-Front-Seal-Leak-2005-2-5T

Out of curiosity, did you do your own timing belt and tensioner already? This is a perfect job to combine. And I’ll assume you know about getting the VVT hubs all aligned? Read about it in the "Job" link, second part. If you miss it, you’ll get a CEL (VVT swing will be out of tolerance with the rear sensor for one or both hubs).

Figured to ask these questions now. Good luck !
Thanks for the tips! I'm working on replacing my front exhaust cam seal. However, I need access to the rear to "lock" the cam w/ the cam locking tool. I've taken a lot of things apart to gain access including the engine mount and sway bar. However, I'm stuck at the next removal. I'm not 100% certain how to get to the rear exhaust cam so that i can lock it. I have this big metal bracket in the way. I see there are 3 bolts, but i'm not 100% certain that's going to release the bracket. Actually, i'm not even sure it's a bracket! Can someone help confirm i'm supposed to remove the 3 bolts??

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9GkoOkpxdgFVmtzMXhqYnYtazg
 

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Yes, get those 3 bolts off to release that bracket. You may have to tap it a little as there guide dowel pins keeping it in place as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You should replace the C.V.V.T hubs. Thats whats probably leaking. I eat this job up like candy.
Does "eat this job like candy" mean that it's a very common issue? Also, someone on ebay was selling 2 of the o-rings for the cvvt hub for like $40. In your experience, do you know if that solves the issue? Thanks!
 

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You should replace the C.V.V.T hubs. Thats whats probably leaking. I eat this job up like candy.
Funny, way funny.

Surprised this particular issue does not get more posts, guessing with 2 VVT hubs for the B5254T series, we’re going to see more of these over the next few years.

That was exactly my problem, too much in/out play in the exhaust hub. Did the seal after a leak and had exactly the same leak afterwards, even a little worse. Might have not have investigated the o-ring repair option too much, having been into it twice, I decided a direct replacement was best over the long-term (happened at 120k, at 165k still no leaks). Old to new play was pretty bad so not at all sure that replacing the cam/hub o-ring would have done much and the rest of the hub guts are inaccessible (rivets hold it all together).

I have a new intake hub sitting on a shelf ( had a little play when I pulled it to do both front seals, nothing close to the exhaust but figure it's inevitable). When I’m in to do the t-belt (I normally do mine at 90), I'll replace it outright if nothing leaks before then.
 

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- The ebay O-ring kit contains 2 O-rings for the VVT hub. I have seen mixed review on this: it may seal the leak but as @ggleavitt said, the "in-and-out" play (aka axial play) may be excessive causing TB tracking in and out etc.

- If people recommend replacing the VVT sprockets, what mileage do you recommend them?

I am at 100K miles now and will simply replace the T and 2 pulleys for now. If and whenever oil leaks happen (maybe around 150K-160K), I may do the whole thing:
* 2 Cam seals (Corteco)
* 2 new VVT sprockets. They are NOT cheap, about $260 a piece!!!
 

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My personal opinion, wait until they leak. Worst case you're doing hub and seal and a couple of belts (if they get fouled) and a cleanup.

That we're not seeing posts on this failure every day suggests that a miles or time based replaced is likely not a mandatory. In my case (embarrassing as it is), the exhaust hub leak started right after I artificially kept revs super high, driving under a relatively foolish assumption that by doing so, I might get some last air bubbles out of a new PS rack I replaced. Got up the next morning to a small oil leak in the driveway. Coincidence? Nah. Certainly could have done without overstressing the 120k mile engine and in the end it made no difference to the PS rack.

Sure theses failures happen, I suspect we'll see more in the coming years as this engine variant (with 2 hub) gets past an average 250k miles. But dropping $520 plus your valuable time may not be needed, at least right now.

My opinion only....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah, I've got a leak and it looks like its coming from the exhaust sproket. I'll hopefully be able to pull the t belt today to check the in and out travel of the sproket. I was hoping it was just the cam seal because as you've said... The sprokets are 320 a piece on fcp. BTW, where did you see 260? Thanks.
 

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PN 9497786 for the Exhaust. $278 with shipping @ Lisle, $285 with shipping @ Tasca, $285 with free shipping @ FCP, and $302 with shipping @ volvopartswebstore. And I buy new cam bolts if I'm replacing the hub, just to do it right (PN 980734, ~ $3 each).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks @ggleavitt. I was on RM and it was $340 for the exhaust. Yikes! Their shipping is SUPER fast though compared to FCP which I'm still waiting for from almost 2 weeks ago.

I've never been on lisle or tasca. I'm going to have to browse their sites as well.

I'll check the play of the hub this AM. As i've read online, 1-2mm in/out is normal. >2mm would = need for replacement? Last few questions before I get wrenching:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9GkoOkpxdgFUnFQUlpPeHFqOUk

I just noticed that the hub replacement does not include the gear. I thought they were both an assembly (riveted to gear) for some reason and all would need to be replaced. I figured for almost $300 it would be the entire thing. Anyhow, I now confused on the in/out travel... is that just the hub itself? Meaning, with the timing belt on (or off, doesn't look like it makes a difference), pull the hub away from the gear? do i need to remove the t55 cover bolt on the hub first? Does that t55 make a difference? it looks like it just prevents access to the bolt attaching gear to CAM shaft.

Thank you for helping me through this experience.
 

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If the belt is off and the hub is still on the camshaft, give it a gentle pull back and forth without turning it . That's the in/out play that is being referenced. Mine was something like 4-5mm, can't recall exactly and I threw the old hub away a year of so back. But it was pretty obvious once I had the new one in hand. Gear comes off the hub with the 3 screws, no particular orientation per se. It'll get aligned once you put everything back together.

As far as a parts place, I've used most of them (and some no longer I business) over the years. I'm partial these days for price and quick shipping with Lisle for my OEM needs. But that's just me...
 
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