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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Have a bad oil pan drain plug. It was stripped out so put a longer bolt in to hold it during the last oil change as didn't have the money for a new pan ($1085 was the quote I had from the dealer the car was stuck at)

The new drain plug has held fine for the past month or so, no leaks and no sign of trouble. However at my next oil change, I doubt the plug will go back in as there weren't many threads left that were good. Just enough to secure it during this cycle.

Long story short, I should have the money for a new pan in a month or two, but my oil will probably be due for a change in a few weeks.

This gives me three options

1. Attempt an oil change and hope the plug will thread back on.

2. Leave the current plug alone, and do a topside oil change, get the pan replaced on the following oil change.

3. Wait a month or two, stretch the oil change out when I have the money?


I am leaning towards Option 2. Seems to be the least risky. Gets new oil in the machine without bothering the drain plug. What are everyone else's opinions?

2008 S40 2.4.
 

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I wonder if there is a longer threaded valve style drain plug (I forget the name for it) that you could try to get in there and then you never have to remove it ever!
 

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I'd just wait until I had money to replace the drop pan. Unless you will reach 10k miles on regular oil, a modern engine can handle a lot.
 

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I agree with just waiting. As long as the oil level is ok, going over a bit on an oil change isnt going to hurt anything.

Instead of a new pan I would have opted for a helicoil thread repair kit or drill and tap for a slightly larger plug.
 

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...$1085 was the quote I had from the dealer the car was stuck at...
That's a steep asking price. I'd assume that's installed at least? Either way, maybe consider an aftermarket pan? We've been carrying this one: http://www.ipdusa.com/products/8855...-for-models-without-oil-level-sensor-30777739 for a while now and never had any issues with it. They are surprisingly nice for the price. You're in Portland too I see so you could always come by IPD and have one of the CS guys grab one for you if you wanted to take a look at it in person.

I'm all for the OE part if/when you can but in this case I'd opt for saving a few hundred bucks and going aftermarket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's a steep asking price. I'd assume that's installed at least? Either way, maybe consider an aftermarket pan? We've been carrying this one: http://www.ipdusa.com/products/8855...-for-models-without-oil-level-sensor-30777739 for a while now and never had any issues with it. They are surprisingly nice for the price. You're in Portland too I see so you could always come by IPD and have one of the CS guys grab one for you if you wanted to take a look at it in person.

I'm all for the OE part if/when you can but in this case I'd opt for saving a few hundred bucks and going aftermarket.
Yes that's P/L from the dealer (Fisher). They were doing an oil change and couldn't get my original bolt to stay. So it was sitting in their shop with no oil. I had them find a longer bolt to put in so I could drive it off the lot.

I'd love to come by and have a look. Can you message me your details.

Matt
 

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Instead of a new pan I would have opted for a helicoil thread repair kit or drill and tap for a slightly larger plug.
drill and tap.
or buy an aftermarket pan.
this just happened to someone i know- he ended up getting it done w/ an aftermarket oil pan at a trusted volvo shop and i think he ended up paying about $500.
well worth a try to re-drill it or have someone re-drill it for you.
 

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I would have to agree with IPD, In my line of thinking its not a moving part. I think that you would be more than fine with the aftermarket oil pan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would have to agree with IPD, In my line of thinking its not a moving part. I think that you would be more than fine with the aftermarket oil pan.
I agree. I'm perfectly fine with aftermarket parts on just about everything except for engine parts.

But, as to the topic of this thread. The consensus is to stretch this oil out a few more thousand miles instead of doing the topside oil change?

A user on this site messaged me and said it was perfectly safe. I can't see any reason why it could hurt?
 

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I wonder if there is a longer threaded valve style drain plug (I forget the name for it) that you could try to get in there and then you never have to remove it ever!
Fumoto valve, I have one on my C30 and it makes life so much easier.



Definitely a worth while investment once you get the new oil pan installed.
 

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Yes that's P/L from the dealer (Fisher). They were doing an oil change and couldn't get my original bolt to stay.
So why didn't you call them out on it? Was this an issue before they touched it? If not, I'd be making the shop pay for the repair...
 

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Hi MNWIT,
Okay, so that's cool. Where did you get it and what's the best cost you've run across?
 

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Hi MNWIT,
Okay, so that's cool. Where did you get it and what's the best cost you've run across?
It was ~$20 on Amazon and I had to get the little extension since our drain valve sits in a bit of an indent. Otherwise, the switch would hit the oil pan once it was screwed about halfway in.
With my ride height, I set it so that the switch is on the top. It's a bit awkward to access, but I don't have to worry about driving over debris and having it get hit.

Valve:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...qid=1445344280&ref_=sr_1_fkmr0_2&sr=8-2-fkmr0

Extension:
http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-Valve-...Tw5A7bL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_

Check on ebay, prices seem to be a bit better and free shipping.

I've had it on for a few months with no problems. Done a couple oil changes and this makes them super easy and mess free! I got a hose from Home Depot and drain it straight into the recycling container. The quality is great and now I don't have to worry about stripping the oil pan threads of the plug head.
 

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Thanks MNIWT,

I'm definitely going to get one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So why didn't you call them out on it? Was this an issue before they touched it? If not, I'd be making the shop pay for the repair...
Because it's the wrong sized bolt. I never bothered to check when I bought the car, I had assumed it was the right bolt. Turned out to be an aftermarket bolt that was the wrong size. I can't hold them responsible for that.
 

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Because it's the wrong sized bolt. I never bothered to check when I bought the car, I had assumed it was the right bolt. Turned out to be an aftermarket bolt that was the wrong size. I can't hold them responsible for that.
Ok, that makes sense. Thanks for clarifying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No details needed ;)

Just come by IPD during our normal business hours of 8:30-5:00 Mon-Fri. Any of our Customer Service reps can take care of you.

We're just off I-205 and Airport Way: https://www.google.com/maps/place/1...1s0x5495a38cae87ac0d:0x631f65ae098f8ec8?hl=en
I didn't know if the forum would consider it advertising (another forum in on doesn't allow it) so wanted to give you the opportunity to message me.

I work at PDX, so that's perfect. I'll stop by soon!
 

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This gives me three options

1. Attempt an oil change and hope the plug will thread back on.

2. Leave the current plug alone, and do a topside oil change, get the pan replaced on the following oil change.

3. Wait a month or two, stretch the oil change out when I have the money?
Is there some reason you aren't considering a high-quality thread repair such as a Time-Sert? http://www.timesert.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I don't think there is enough metal left, at least that's what the mechanic said. They said they wouldn't tap it out and rethread it. I had more photos, but they were on my phone which I coincidentally dropped down a storm water drainage grate when I walked out of the shop. I did find one photo in the cloud.



That's all I have of it.
 
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