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Guess I'll relocate the amp when I get a new spare.
I'm pretty happy with the amp under the front passenger seat and a long line to the box in the cargo area. Only "issue" is a little less foot room in the back seat on the passenger side, but it don't affect me much because I rarely have back seat passengers.
 

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Didn't unplug the temp sensor, just removed the hose for more room. I was going to flush the coolant and change the heater core if everything had gone okay. I went back and checked to make sure the idle air control valve and throttle body sensor were connected to make sure I didn't miss anything. Also had to recheck the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line.
There are a couple connectors in that area that are possible to switch.....and I believe they're the IAC and TPS connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
There are a couple connectors in that area that are possible to switch.....and I believe they're the IAC and TPS connectors.
Those two I did get right. I was looking at Robert's site regarding the two codes and I think I may have an issue with the injectors. When I moved the rail to the side, I did get fuel leakage from two of the injectors (they all seemed a little loose in the rail). I was going to swap #4 and #5 to see if the issue followed the swap. Car ran fine before I started this adventure; it just failed the glove test for the PCV.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
There are a couple connectors in that area that are possible to switch.....and I believe they're the IAC and TPS connectors.
I ordered some new fuel rail seals and injector seals. The PCV kit that I bought came with the injector O-rings. I think I may have pinched the seals and they were pretty loose going into the ports (didn't snap in). I'll just wait for the parts and in the meantime drive my neglected S60. I took the BMW K-bike out for a ride today to take my mind off the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Well, I received the injector seals today and went outside to look at the task in hand. I discovered that while putting the intake manifold back on, I had the support clamp for the PCV long tube between the intake and the head :mad:. Looks like I may have pinched the tube so I will have to order another one just in case I put a hole in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Finally, all of the parts are in now. I'll try to get started on the replacement of the PCV hose and injector seals tomorrow. It's too hot to work in the garage this week (108º outside, much hotter inside). South Texas is hell in the summertime.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
I was able to pull it all apart again today and found that the PCV hard pipe that was pinched did not have a hole in the tube, but the vacuum line to the PTC nipple was loose. Went to Autozone and bought some vacuum line to replace the fitting that was on the end of the hard pipe for the PTC line. The #3 and #5 injectors popped out of the rail kind of easy, so I'll do the new seals tomorrow and that should fix it. We had a four year old little girl go missing in the development, so I stopped to help the neighbors and police search for her. They found her a little later okay in a neighbors back yard (thank God!).
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Got all of the parts in for the project Volvo (I ordered 5 injector rail seals instead of injector seals - wrong!). Put the intake back on with new vacuum lines and PCV pipe. Just need to put the seals and spacers on the injectors and install and hopes it fires without any misfire codes. Engine needs a good cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)

Put it all back together today and it idles better than before. Turns out it was a vacuum leak at the PTC and probably where the bracket for the PCV tube was between the head and the manifold. Now it is off to have the trans drain and fill while I wait for the heater core coolant pipe and the o-rings. Will finish installing the new heater core with new coolant hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Took the car in for the trans drain and fill and had the shop do a quick once over to see what else needed attention. Well, there is a torn boot on the driver CV axle and the joint was dry (don't know how long it was like that), a small leak developing at the bottom of the radiator (I do get a whiff of coolant sometimes) and the power steering fluid should have been changed years ago. Guess I'll have them do the work as long as their parts prices are not higher that FCP's. Also had some leaks that they say may be coming from the cam seals, but the previous owner replaced them (guess he didn't clean up after). They are going to clean those areas and recheck at a later date.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Car is headed to the indie on Thursday for a driver side axle, radiator and power steering fluid change. Also, went to the JY today just to see what Volvo's were in the yard. Found a full set of roof rails with clips and trim from a V70 and a fuel rail cover for $33.00. Now just have to wait until the paint work is done to install the rails.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Well, picked car up from the Indie for the radiator, drive axle and power steering refill and this happened. Seems the clamp for the upper transmission cooler line was not seated firmly and it loosened and I blew fluid all over the left side of the engine bay. Luckily I didn't drive all the way home (stopped at my buddies restaurant about five miles from the shop). It still had fluid in the trans because it apparently was still pumping out when I stopped. Shop is going to keep it and fix connections and test drive it to see if there was any damage. Said if there is a problem, they will make it right and cover the transmission.
 

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Erg, what a mess!

Hopefully the trans wasn't damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Hopefully the trans wasn't damaged.
They are going to check to see how much fluid was pumped out. There was a trail about three blocks long all the way to where I parked it. The clip that were on the trans line to the radiator was rattling around the pipe. I told them to check the ones to the oil cooler side also. I'm going to have them secure all four lines with hose clamps like it was before.
 

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The clip that were on the trans line to the radiator was rattling around the pipe. I told them to check the ones to the oil cooler side also. I'm going to have them secure all four lines with hose clamps like it was before.
Between the RN oil pan conversion and the manual swap, I'm glad I don't have to mess with those lousy connectors any longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Between the RN oil pan conversion and the manual swap, I'm glad I don't have to mess with those lousy connectors any longer.
I'm seriously considering a manual swap.
 

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Those connectors are great; you guys just need snap ring pliers so they don't get messed up on installation/removal

Replace the clips and clips and you'll be good to go
 

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Those connectors are great; you guys just need snap ring pliers so they don't get messed up on installation/removal
Have them. Used them. The connectors still suck :)
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Those connectors are great; you guys just need snap ring pliers so they don't get messed up on installation/removal

Replace the clips and clips and you'll be good to go
I didn't install the radiator, the Indie shop did. The clip was so loose on the pipe that I was able to pull it out of the radiator when I was checking to see where the fluid was coming from. I don't know if it is "good to go" because it lost a lot of trans fluid. I'm going to stop by the shop on Monday and make sure they make a note on the invoice that it came loose and lost however much fluid they had to replace after I drove it about five miles. I'll be listening for noises.
 

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Oh I was commenting that the connectors will be good to go....although hopefully the trans will be, too.

Those clips get real messed up when improperly handled.
 
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