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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So should blow $3500 on the Evolve "power package" (ECU, Downpipe, Exhaust)? Only 91 octane available. However, it would be nice to gain a little power and a lot of smootheness.
 

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Re: To mod or not to mod... (carsonlake)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>carsonlake</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So should blow $3500 on the Evolve "power package" (ECU, Downpipe, Exhaust)? Only 91 octane available. However, it would be nice to gain a little power and a lot of smootheness.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>To mod or not to mod...<p>Warranty or no warranty...
 

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Re: To mod or not to mod... (carsonlake)

Mod and pray. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emcocktl.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: To mod or not to mod... (llabahn)

Well Said. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/cool.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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find a place that sells race gas. you can buy 5 gallon drums at most shops tat cater to racers or motorcross types..or the mustang/V8 crowds. <p>tr that for a bit and see how youlike the extra powr. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> then add mods<p>the gas ought to get you some nice gains - at a cheap cost of $10-15 a tank.
 

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Re: To mod or not to mod... (carsonlake)

Pay to play, that's all I can say<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Happy Gilmore</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Shooter McGavin: Just stay out of my way or you'll pay, listen to what I say.<p>Happy Gilmore: Why don't I just got and eat some hay. I can lay by the bay, make things out of clay, I just may, what do ya say?</TD></TR></TABLE>
 

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Re: To mod or not to mod... (KMK454)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>KMK454</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>To mod or not to mod...<p>Warranty or no warranty...</TD></TR></TABLE><p>That answer is a little to 'cut and dry' IMHO. I maintain that it comes down to the relationship you have with your Volvo dealer and tech. Find one that's on your side and then the only time warranty issues might come up is IF you have a major failure where people from Volvo 'head office' start to ask question when, for example, there's a $4000 claim needing approval. How many people here with ECU and DP mods have had major failures and/or warranty problems? (I can think of only 1 and I believe there were many other factors that caused the problems).<p>LTA<p><br>LTA<br>
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: (23109VC)

(23109VC)<p>find a place that sells race gas. you can buy 5 gallon drums at most shops tat cater to racers or motorcross types..or the mustang/V8 crowds.<p>tr that for a bit and see how youlike the extra powr. then add mods<p>the gas ought to get you some nice gains - at a cheap cost of $10-15 a tank. <p>Sounds like a good plan. However, do you have to reset the ECU or is this a "pump and play" application?
 

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Re: (carsonlake)

Carsonlake, you can save yourself some typing if you hit the quote button.<p>Just a helpfull hint...
 

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well go for it, we will have the first BSR STAGE III R in a few weeks, if the R make the dramatic change like my T5 did i think it will be a monster car.
 

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Re: (volvos60t5x)

if you are running 91 octane and then fill up with 93+ octane, resetting the ECu will get you immediate results....but you don't have to. i believe that as you drive the car, it will gradually detect that the gas is better and it will adjust timing to be more aggressive. Personally, I reset the ECu. it takes about 30 seconds.<p>i was driving on 91 octane for my last tank of gas. the car seems to run fine - and I've got the 93 octane tune in my car. the car doesn't have as much power and is not as smooth on 91 as it is on 93...but when I got home, i swung past my gas station that sells 100 at the pump. i added 5 gallons..and then ddrove down to the Chevron dealer to get 91. WOO HOO. the car flat out screams!!! i love it!<p>this morning on the way to work...i had a pretty much full tank of gas, 5 gallons of 100, the rest 91. 50 degrees out. the car pulled so nicely from low rpms up to redline. i really notice the difference from about 5500-6500 rpm. on 91 the car seems to have less pull in the upper revs. on higher octane the car is smoother all around, but it also has more power and pulls harder and harder as the revs climb. on lower octane gas the car still seems to have good low end grunt, but the power falls of as revs climb. for day in day out driving, hoenstly, on 91 it's ok...but if you are on the gas hard, or wanted to race - you'd NEED that upper rpm power. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"><p>i know it's hard to find a gas station that sells 100 octane at the pump...but I really think yo'd have NO trouble finding a place that sells race gas by the 5 gallon pail. most shops that sell motorcycle stuff have it. find a local dirt bike/motorcycle place. or try speed shops - the palces that cater to ricers or mustang/vette/viper guys. most of these shops will stock 5 gallon pails of some form of unleaded fuel..and if they don't have it in stock, i'll bet they'd get it for you. <p>I'm about to move...and the new area I'm moving to does NOT have ANY gas station that sells unleaded race fuel at the pump. i found a place that sells leaded fuel...but not unleaded. I did, however, find 3+ shops that sell 100 octane unleaded by the 5 gallon pail. it's basically a big 5 gallon can. it has a built in spout thing so you can open it and extend the built in spout to pour it and not make too big of a mess. the price for the 5 gallon pail is almost the same as buying the gas at th epump. buying at the pump is easier since you don't have to mess with the can...but i've bought teh pails before and they work fine. in the end the cost is the same.<p>if you never try it, you won't know what you're missing. the problem with using race gas is that once you do it - you're hooked. if you're the kind of person who would spend $3500 on ECU/dp/exhaust...then you're PROBABLY the kind of person who is going to NOTICE the power gains from 100 octane gas..and you're going to LIKE it. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> once you try it. you're hooked. probably a lot like crack. don't do drugs! do race gas!<p>good luck with the power package. i think you'll like it.
 

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Re: (Kirb)

Kirb-<p>i buy the NOS octane booster and keep a can or two in the trunk. If I run low on gas, need to fill up, and DON'T have access to my high octane at the pump - I use the NOS stuff. <p>I'd say the car runs BEST on the race gas mix. It runs almost as well on the NOS octane booster. It runs on 91, but not that great. I can definitely tell the car runs better if I add NOS octane booster to a tank of gas. I think there is some benefit to race gas over and above the NOS stuff...but it's moderate. I personally think the race gas is probably better on the engine, as it's just gasoline - albeit higher quality. the NOS stuff has additives...MMT...and I've read that *can* harm the cat..not sure if that's true or not...i only use it on occasion...so I figure it's not that bad...and a cat is relatively cheap to replace if/when it ever got clogged or worn out.
 

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Re: (23109VC)

Sean, I'm going to try the NOS booster for the hell of it. Otherwise I'll just have to make a jaunt to Infineon to get some race gas.
 

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Which version of the NOS booster do you use? There are several, the RACE stuff is definately not safe for 02 sensors and the cat. There is also the 'street' version which is fine on the components.
 

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Re: To mod or not to mod... (carsonlake)

If you are prepared for the exhaust note, I'd do it. Mine pulls harder and is faster. Do the sway bars while you are at it....<p>Watch the exhaust install, mine hangs lower than I wanted it to (for now). Be forwarned that my first one did not fit and led to delays until they got the second one out. <p>JR
 
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