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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A quick question for those who have tackled the collar gear themselves.
Which is a safer, easier way to get a grip on the collar gear. Is it better to grind two big grooves, or try three holes 120 degrees apart?
Or say F)*K it and call in professionals and let a shop do it?
Any thoughts?
 

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I say grind as well.

I HATE drilling into hardened stuff. Lots of chance for slipping off with the drill while trying to get it to start.
 

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Just use an air hammer. It's worked for me every time.
 

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Sounds like a great way to trash the diff bearing. I would rather advise people to use a puller so the forces are applied to the shaft and collar instead of beating the **** out of their transmissions.
 

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I found it surprisingly easy to drill through the oem collar if thats the route you decide to go. I was able to use the same cheap metal bit the drill 3 holes. I was expecting it ro be a pain, but it went fairly well. I put some bolts through the holes and used a 5 ton puller. I fought it for an hour or so before deciding to take a break. I left the puller attached to the collar under load over night and it slid right off the next morning. Guessing I got lucky considering the horror stories I have read on here. Haha.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
 

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Grind 3 slots for a puller and use an oxygen actatlyne torch to pop that epoxy

I broke a puller with out using heat first
 

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I drilled 2 holes and then used a 2 jaw snap on puller and some heat.
Like Astro-R said it drills very easily, only slightly harder than aluminum
I now use the old collar as a paper weight at work
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
PRO TIP: if you want to un-fasten something that’s “stuck” with Loctite, or other adhesive fastener additives, use the ‘creep-fail’ approach. Load up the tool with a constant torque, below the threshold that will strip the fastener, be patient…the thread-locker will ‘creep’ and eventually release within 10-60 sec. Higher strength stuff takes more time but still works...
 
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