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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. I went to look at a 2000 V70 xc yesterday. He's asking 2500 for it and its got 180k on it. Everything looked good and solid. I've heard to avoid the cars at all costs if they have uneven tire wear because it messes with the AWD. The front tires on this car had extreme outer tire wear but it looks like it's due to positive camber, so I'm hoping it just needs an alignment. Any input? I'm a broke college student so please don't tell me to get a newer or lower mileage model, I'd love to but this is what I can afford and am looking at right now. Thanks
 

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It's not worth $2500... Probably needs LCAs, Tie rods, and strut mounts like every other P80 car at that mileage.
 

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Look for a standard V70. 20% better fuel economy (my V70 got 24-25 and my XC gets barely 20 mpg) and a lot less parts to wear out, no turbocharger, 15" tires are less expensive to buy, and you're lugging a couple hundred less pounds.
 

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Look for a standard V70. 20% better fuel economy (my V70 got 24-25 and my XC gets barely 20 mpg) and a lot less parts to wear out, no turbocharger, 15" tires are less expensive to buy, and you're lugging a couple hundred less pounds.
The XC has 15" wheels stock. Also, the turbocharger makes the car much better and the maintenance on a LPT car is almost identical to a N/A car. You can get 24 out of an XC easily--by pulling the driveshaft. A 98-00 XC has more torque all of the time, a locking rear diff, no crap 5 speed auto in 2000 and ground clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have to agree with @hounddogger, life without boost is not the life for me! I'd like to get an intake, downpipe/exhaust, and bigger injectors then tune for e85 so I can keep up with my buddys wrx. So I guess if I run into AWD problems I can just disconnect the driveshaft - ultimately I'd love to engineer a part that allows me to engage awd myself, although as I understand I'll need a beefier rear to do that. Anyway, the interior is also rough so assuming those suspension parts mentioned above are in ok condition, I'm thinking $2100 is a fair price. Could the LCAs, tie rods or strut mounts be the cause of the positive camber?
 

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Beg to differ, but my 2000 V70XC AWD SE - sans driveshaft - is currently pegged at 19.9 mpg. And I drive it like there's an egg between my foot and the gas pedal. My 2000 V70 SE consistently showed 24.5.
 

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I'm a broke college student...


I have to agree with @hounddogger, life without boost is not the life for me! I'd like to get an intake, downpipe/exhaust, and bigger injectors then tune for e85 so I can keep up with my buddys wrx. So I guess if I run into AWD problems I can just disconnect the driveshaft - ultimately I'd love to engineer a part that allows me to engage awd myself, although as I understand I'll need a beefier rear to do that. Anyway, the interior is also rough so assuming those suspension parts mentioned above are in ok condition, I'm thinking $2100 is a fair price. Could the LCAs, tie rods or strut mounts be the cause of the positive camber?

Ratty interior, needs tires and and alignment, perhaps many parts & pieces just to get to stage 0

This is how a $2100 car quickly turns into a $5000 car that still has a ratty interior
 

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Offer less. Sounds like its going to need full front end work. Obviously tires too. Theres a way to make this car work for your situation and thats not paying $2100! :)
 

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The AWD engages when it encounters slip because of non Newtonian fluids. I'd forget trying to control it. It's not electronic like haldex.

An FWD V70XC should get 24 mpg, at least the 3 I have driven like that did. Check your coils.

I wouldn't pay more than $1k.
 

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The AWD engages when it encounters slip because of non Newtonian fluids. I'd forget trying to control it. It's not electronic like haldex.

An FWD V70XC should get 24 mpg, at least the 3 I have driven like that did. Check your coils.

I wouldn't pay more than $1k.
Not to hijack the kid's thread, but I've checked and changed the plugs, run two cans of spray SeaFoam through the throttle body, and hooked it up the a VIDA with no error shown. There's just no way an XC with a turbo and the extra weight of AWD is going to approach the mpg of a V70 non-turbo with a 5-speed vs 4 speed auto.
 

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Not to hijack the kid's thread, but I've checked and changed the plugs, run two cans of spray SeaFoam through the throttle body, and hooked it up the a VIDA with no error shown. There's just no way an XC with a turbo and the extra weight of AWD is going to approach the mpg of a V70 non-turbo with a 5-speed vs 4 speed auto.
That 4 speed auto has pretty tall gearing... Also whether you drive highway mostly or city also plays a part in fuel economy. The AW55 5th is similar to the AW50-42 4th. But it has an intermediate gear for around town economy.
 

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That 4 speed auto has pretty tall gearing... Also whether you drive highway mostly or city also plays a part in fuel economy. The AW55 5th is similar to the AW50-42 4th. But it has an intermediate gear for around town economy.
Yet both 4 and 5 speed autos pale in comparison and drivability to even a n/a car with a 5 speed m56 (manual). My T5M gets 30-32 on the highway when you dont push it (2800 rpm at ~75 mph but off the boost). A n/a car will do about the same. Sport factor aside, I am convinced that the gear ratios in the M56 are the best suited for volvo whiteblock engines and all around usefulness. Shift up for economy, down for power. Watching the instantaneous mpg readout will give you an idea of gas mileage versus driving style. If you really want a reliable daily driver, theres a white manual wagon in new jersey, n/a engine and clean that would get you, your friends and stuff everywhere for the least amount out of pocket. Skip the awd and buy good snow tires if you need that kind of winter traction. You can have a reliable daily driver or an extreme sports wagon. Dont be disallusioned and think that tweaking an XC will be a) cheap b) capable like a wrx c) reliable at that kind of power.
 

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Yet both 4 and 5 speed autos pale in comparison and drivability to even a n/a car with a 5 speed m56 (manual). My T5M gets 30-32 on the highway when you dont push it (2800 rpm at ~75 mph but off the boost). A n/a car will do about the same. Sport factor aside, I am convinced that the gear ratios in the M56 are the best suited for volvo whiteblock engines and all around usefulness. Shift up for economy, down for power. Watching the instantaneous mpg readout will give you an idea of gas mileage versus driving style. If you really want a reliable daily driver, theres a white manual wagon in new jersey, n/a engine and clean that would get you, your friends and stuff everywhere for the least amount out of pocket. Skip the awd and buy good snow tires if you need that kind of winter traction. You can have a reliable daily driver or an extreme sports wagon. Dont be disallusioned and think that tweaking an XC will be a) cheap b) capable like a wrx c) reliable at that kind of power.
Bingo. Look at the higher strung turbo cars like the R... Cheap isn't a word that can be used. An XC is great for what it is--an SUV with the fuel economy of a heavy sedan.

The M66C is great for the white block... It's just designed for acceleration and performance over economy. Downshifting an M66 R is optional given that the k24 is almost lag free. However you can get the effect of turbo lag by not downshifting. Just wait 2 seconds and you're flying.
 

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Even the GLT/AWD/T5 cars can be wallet sucking beasts. Complicated but not too much, parts aren't deadly expensive if you wrench on it yourself, just don't pick up one with issues. The thousand more you may spend will save you buckets in repairs
 

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Beg to differ, but my 2000 V70XC AWD SE - sans driveshaft - is currently pegged at 19.9 mpg. And I drive it like there's an egg between my foot and the gas pedal. My 2000 V70 SE consistently showed 24.5.
My '98 XC consistently gets about 23MPG and my R gets 22.

OP, if you're a broke college student I wouldn't recommend that car. It probably needs a bunch of suspension work (although my XC does tend to wear the outside of the tires a smidge more even when properly aligned-it's just a Macpherson strut thing) and a few unexpected repairs on other parts of the car can turn it into a money pit of epic proportions. At 180K a lot of stuff is going to be worn out unless it was meticulously maintained.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
There's a lot of good points in here that are making me rethink this car. I have owned an 01 s60 2.4t for about 3 years that I purchased with 183,000 miles at $2250. The only serious problem it's given me is transmission, but I've always been able to rely on it to get me from a to b. I'm broke now and got a decent offer on my 245 dl, that's why I'm trying to upgrade. At the same time I just started a new job that will fund mods. I don't need this car for snow, but I want to be able to drive through a field here and there without getting stuck. I go to college in Auburn, Al and that's where I'm trying to find a car. I'm not terribly worried about mpgs, I can work with anything around 20.
 

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Sure you don't want a Cherokee or a 4Runner or something? The Volvo AWD is meant to improve traction on slippery surfaces and that's about it. It won't get you through a muddy field like a proper 4WD system.
 

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Pure highway, I've done 28-29 in my 99 R, with both with the aw50-42 and m66. This is with 235 summer tires, AWD, and cruising around 70. I calculated this by dividing the miles driven vs fuel used, not relying on the trip computer. Although, since the m66/tune, my calculated average has been with +/- 0.2 of what the trip computer reads
 
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