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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Timing Belt replacement steps (updated)

Today i decided to replace timing belt on my 2005 S40 T5 with 130k miles. I also replaced water pump, timing belt idler pulley, timing belt tensioner, and 2 accessories belts. cost was $300 for parts at autozone. Job was 6 on scale from 1-10. pretty much straight forward and no special tools needed.
these are 95% of tools used:


Fisrt sep was removing the inner wheel well shield which has about 6 torx and 2 10mm plastic nuts:


Next step was removing the 3 piece timing belt plastic cover. first top piece has 2 torx bolts, second piece just comes out by pulling it and 3dh piece has one torx bolt in the middle of it which can be reached after removing the side engine mount and plastic clips along the both sides of it:



Next step would be removing the coolant reservoir so you can gain access to side engine mount by wiggling it while pulling up as its not secured by any bolts and it just slides on 2 pieces of aluminum:


Next step is removing the bottom engine shield ( and putting a jack and a foot long piece of 2x4 under oil pan to secure the engine when you unbolt side engine mount)


next step is to remove the side engine mount, after taking oit off i realized that mine was completely torn and all the liquid oil out of it drained so i ahd to order a new one at the dealer:




Next step would be removing the accessories belts which is very easy by releasing the tension from two seperate pulleys:



Next step is to remove the 4 x10mm bolts on crank pulley and to remove 30mm crank pulley nut. I dont have air tools so I used infamous starter method. Took 1/2 inch drive positioned it so it rests against the frame towards the front of the car next to the power steering pump, in reverse and cranked the car quickly... :eek::eek: it broke loose!:

ready to crank the starter:


now since the nut is loose, turn the crank 1/4 forward and than 1/4 counterclock-wise so VVT locks and it stays positioned in reset mode "read about this on this forum a while back"
after removing the 30mm nut just put a big scredriver between pulley and block and wiggle it out little by little... be patient it will slowly come out!


Now mark the cam gears with marker and mark the crank sprocket with marker just to make sure nothing moves. loose the tension on the tensioner and remove the belt. remove the tensioner( one center bolt on it). Remove the idler pulley, it has 2 bolts underneat it. Remove 10mm bolts on water pump and let the coolant drain out in wide bucket before completely removing the pump.




factory markings on cam gear and upper timing belt cover:




dont forget to cleant the block prior to installing new water pump, sometimes pieces of old gasket stay on. install new gasket and bolts with water pump. remember lightly torque the water pump bolts with 1/4 drive or best if you can find proper torque specs ( i couldn't get them).
reverse the procedure for assembley ...
For all the bolts, except the 30mm crank pulley nut i approximated the torque using some experience. i probably over torqued the water-pump bolts which are suppose to be 10ftlb, i probably torqued them down to 20-25ftlb. If you wanna ue the specs i suggest getting 1/4 torque ratchet because thats the only thing that can fit in tight space between the engine and the frame.

after not doing the procedure where your suppose to turn crank 1/4 clockwise past marks than 1/4 counterclockwise i was kinda afraid that i might get checkengine light or something else but car fired up perfectly fine and it runs and drives great. One tricky thing was installing and setting the tension on timing belt tensioner. its done by tightening the bolt that holds it just a little bit maybe around 5ftlb and then using allen key turn the tensioner so the needle gets in between to marks. Once you see the tensioner this will make perfect sense. Also, you will have to raise and lower your engine using jack thats already under neat it to be able to access bolts and see the proper position of the tensioner "needle". Here is the shot i took:



found a pic of it online:



anyone feel free to update and modify this post!:beer::beer::beer::beer:

Befor taking the timing belt off, rotate the the crank few revolutions by your hand so you get a feeling of how much resistance you are suppose to get from compression, so when you change the timing belt and when you rotate the crank by your hand to test everything out you will know if you did something wrong if the resistance your getting is higher than before.
 

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Nice,
Turn crank clockwise past marks - then 1/4 counterclockwise to the marks. I believe you have it backwards. Or I do.
Water pump bolts 7ftlbs (10)
Big crankshaft nut 133ftlbs (180)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i beleive i had it backwards. hopefully everything goes right as im waiting for tensioner to arrive so i can assemble it now...
 

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I was a bit concerned about doing this job myself this spring and not looking forward to paying $1000+ to get the job done at the dealer I have done timing belts in the past it was just the VVT that was worrying me.. After seeing this thread I got my confidence back and should be able to pocket the labor cost , thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I will take pics when reassemble everything but that will be in few days as I'm still waiting for tensioner to arrive at the store
 

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Sticky!!!!
 

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SHADOWLORD - Any update on this post? Your car running fine? I have 118,500 miles on my S40 so timing belt is due VERY soon. $1000 for the local dealer to R&R the belt is robbery IMO, looks like something I could do in a couple hours.
 

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Very cool. Way too rich for my blood. I had a local Volvo dealer (PA) quote me about 600 for the belt change. They said the water pump, which they typically dont change, would be an extra 150. My wife's car is at 100,500, the dealer told me to wail till about 120K.

Thanks for the write up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
SHADOWLORD - Any update on this post? Your car running fine? I have 118,500 miles on my S40 so timing belt is due VERY soon. $1000 for the local dealer to R&R the belt is robbery IMO, looks like something I could do in a couple hours.
now that you will know how to set the tension shouldnt take you more than 2 hours. It is very straight forward job.
 

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This is great! Thank you so much for such a comprehensive write-up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
btw, our engine mounts are filled with glycol. Thats what says on the side of it...
 

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Thanks for taking the time to show us how this is done. I am at 113k miles now. And am planning to wait the full 120k before doing this. The 6 out of 10 comment makes me think this isn't to bad. How was the curse factor ? I have done a few mistubishi DOHC cars where you couldn't get the belt cover out due to clearance and ended up with cracked covers. Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Lol, it's not difficult at all. Engineers did good job at making sure that nothing will brake and everything is fairly accessible. Curse factor was very very low. The only time I had to curse was before figuring out how to set the tensioner and how to brake loose the 30mm balancer nut
 
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