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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, just got back from taking the R on a 2800 mile roadtrip. All went just fine. Next day drive the car to work and back. As I get home I notice a strange sound at idle. Kinda rattly. Open the hood and determine the noise is from inside the T-Belt cover.<p>Pull the top cover and the belt is looooooossssseeeee ! Oh SNAP This cannot be good. Remove the lower cover and discover the tensioner pulley decided to explode apart. All the ball bearings were in the bottom of the cover.<p>I consider myself SO lucky to have caught this before the belt decided to jump which sure it would have. I'm just amazed that it didn't jump in the first place.<p>Nice thing is this timing belt looks like the easiest one i'll probably ever do!<p>Car just clicked 43k miles!<p>And for those of you who know the history of my car no, the tensioner pulley never got wet.<p>Sooo....where's the best place to get an idler / belt FAST! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Timing belt carnage (firehawk618)

Wowzers, I think the service interval for the timing belt setup is 120K miles. Crazy that your tensioner went at such low mileage. I'm just John at Boston Volvo could hook you up very quickly.<p>Why do you say it will be your easiest timing belt change ever? You think this can be done without jacking the motor up? If so, I look forward to changing mine <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/tongue.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's looking like the only reason you need a jack is to right front tire for access to the crankshaft pulley. Once upper and lower covers are off it's wide open in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If anyone could link up a how to on timing belt for the R that would be great. I'm mucking through pages and pages of search results and have yet to find instructions for our motors.<p>Mainly just want where the marks are on the cam / crank pulley<br>
 

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Re: (firehawk618)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>firehawk618</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's looking like the only reason you need a jack is to right front tire for access to the crankshaft pulley. Once upper and lower covers are off it's wide open in there.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>sweet
 

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Re: (firehawk618)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>firehawk618</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If anyone could link up a how to on timing belt for the R that would be great. I'm mucking through pages and pages of search results and have yet to find instructions for our motors.<p>Mainly just want where the marks are on the cam / crank pulley<br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Hmmmm, who do we know that pulls these things apart for fun... Hang on, I know this one..... Hmmmmmm..... <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/tongue.gif" BORDER="0"><p>Justin, we're waitin' for you to chime in here.... With pics.... <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"><p>-Steve
 

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Re: Timing belt carnage (firehawk618)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>firehawk618</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>I consider myself SO lucky to have caught this before the belt decided to jump which sure it would have. I'm just amazed that it didn't jump in the first place.<p></TD></TR></TABLE><p>I also consider yourself very lucky! Good catch.
 

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Re: (firehawk618)

Interval is 105K. I've only seen a lucky few come in with the belt noise and the car still running. Most drop the belt and its head off to the machine shop.<p>Taking off the Crank Pulley or Balancer as some call it, is not needed. The belt can be squeezed in between w/o issue. You want to lock your cams before the belt comes off. With two VCCTs something bound to shift or a cam move and having a CVVT you'll think its back in the right place because of the marks but it can be WAY off. Its not necessary to lock the cams if you know exactly what you are doing but if you've never done these before, it will just be an added layer of insurance. <p>Other than removing the serp belt and covers, its pretty strait forward.<br>I like to mark the crank pulley with a grease pencil on it location as well as cam gear locations. Just a backup mark and usually easier to see.<p>Premature failure could possibly be from the water damage but I've seen some go way before 105K. Hint: if you pressure Volvo, they will pay for the work since if failed before the 105. Check if there's a time interval but I think you are probably under that.
 

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Cam locke soooo important when changing a timing belt on VVT engie makes it so much easier
 

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Re: Timing belt carnage (firehawk618)

I've done the t-belt change on my V70 GLT. I did use a cam lock and a tool that locks the serpentine belt tensioner once its loosened. You have to remove the right front wheel. I removed the lower pulley, but some say they can change the t-belt without removing it. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/rolleyes.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>I won't be doing it for awhile, but are we saying that this job on the R is virtually the same thing, since it's virtually the same engine, a heavily massaged inline 5-cyl? What kind of t-belt tensioner does it have mechanical or (I hope) hydraulic? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (Oceans60R)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Oceans60R</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Interval is 105K. I've only seen a lucky few come in with the belt noise and the car still running. Most drop the belt and its head off to the machine shop.<p>Taking off the Crank Pulley or Balancer as some call it, is not needed. The belt can be squeezed in between w/o issue. You want to lock your cams before the belt comes off. With two VCCTs something bound to shift or a cam move and having a CVVT you'll think its back in the right place because of the marks but it can be WAY off. Its not necessary to lock the cams if you know exactly what you are doing but if you've never done these before, it will just be an added layer of insurance. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>So the R's cam marks aren't accurate? Could you detail this for us?
 

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I think my tensioner on my '05 with 43K seems to make some noise. I should take a peek at it when I get home. It seems to be making a faint sooshing noise at idle noticable outside the car.
 

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Re: (Arbelac)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Arbelac</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>So the R's cam marks aren't accurate? Could you detail this for us?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>The marks are accurate as long as the cams do not move. The CVVT can and will rotate easily once the belt is removed but sometimes the cam moves as well. This is independent movement of the CVVT and cam gear from the cam. If the cam moves, the timing marks will not be accurate until the CVVT is reset in the proper position and the cams will need to be locked from the Drivers Side. <p>With the CVVT the cam gears can move about 30 degrees back and forth. Normally when they are set correctly, its oil pressure through the viscous coupling that then advances or retards cam timing. If its off a tooth it can be picked up using VIDA and looking at the camshaft adaption values. Anything over 7 degrees will set a code and it really means its off. Usually you will see an adaption value of 14 degrees if its off one tooth. The timing marks may line up perfectly but cam timing was moved during a belt change.<p>I hope that clears it up <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (Garnetmica)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Garnetmica</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think my tensioner on my '05 with 43K seems to make some noise. I should take a peek at it when I get home. It seems to be making a faint sooshing noise at idle noticable outside the car. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>If it is in the least noisy, I would replace it asap. No sense risking it.
 

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AC Delco pulley.....$47 at Rock Auto.<br>AC Delco belt.....$37 at Rock Auto. Volvo OEM is $155 at myswedishparts.com. Ouch.<p>I can't believe the belt didn't jump!!<br>That is awesome and scary. $47 could have turned into several thousand real quick <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/eek.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I cannot believe it didn't jump either. There is light scuffing on the outer timing cover showing where the belt had been rubbing on it recently. <p>Man, JUST got done with a 2,800mile road trip too!<p>When I popped off the upper cover the belt EASILY had 1" of freeplay in it!<p>I'll post some pics when I get home. I haven't removed the belt or pulleys yet. <p>Gotta get parts anyhow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
And I am still confused as to how the cam timing can be off even with the marks being accurate.....<p>Even if the cam rotated a few degrees wouldn't it self-center once you start the engine and it gets oil pressure?<p>Thanks <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (Oceans60R)

Just so I can get my head around this....<p>If the cam moves and we fire up after belt replacement - we are bending valves right (at the very least)?<p>What's a cam lock? Never used one before and google brings up door locks etc.<p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If the cam is far enough out of time yes piston contact is possible. <p>A Cam lock is a tool to make your cams stay on TDC basically. I don't know what it looks like for the volvo but some cars it's just a flat bar that goes in a notch on the end of the cams, others it's like a crow's foot and goes on the center of the cam.<p>Bottom line is they put the cams to a known position and hold them there.
 
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