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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Miss the heady days of my E30 and its rock solid suspension (front and rear tower bracing, Bilsteins and HR, Poly everything).

I'm looking to see how far my S60R can come in regards to making it handle like a go cart. I wanted to get feedback on my plans and discuss from there what others have found helped the most.

1. My strut mounts are worn. I am replacing them this weekend.
2. Alignment.
3. Everything in the front end seems newer. The CAB's both look quite intact, and bushings and such look good.
4. Front sway bar links were hashed. replacing those.
My plan initially?

Poly Subframe bushes. Already installing them this weekend.
Poly bushes for the upper strut brace/engine mount.

After that, I'm at a loss.

Rear brace? Poly rears? Rear toe bars? Sway bars from iPd? Coil overs?

What has the forums experience been here. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Any of the swaybars economical?
 

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IPD track spec sways are reasonable and along with HD endlinks should be the first upgrade. I've also done front & rear braces that help the car feel stable and planted. Coil overs are next on my list.

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First thing I would look at is your factory strut bar. Stock they have A LOT of play. You want to have 0 play. IPD offers a conversion kid, but for couple bucks a few washers from local hardware store will do the trick.

Comparing an R that has play in the factory strut bar to one that has 0 play is a night and day difference. From heavier steering feel, much better feed back it will even improve the feel of your transmission shifts.
 

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My preference is the Ultra Racing strut bar and to let the upper engine mount do its job as a mount. I tried the conversion and the engine transmitted too much vibration for my taste.


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My preference is the Ultra Racing strut bar and to let the upper engine mount do its job as a mount. I tried the conversion and the engine transmitted too much vibration for my taste.


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I do not have IPD conversion so I am unable comment. I did what some of the guys on here would call the "bob villa mod" great improvement minimal vibration increase. I also added the Ultra racing strut bar. As I did both at separate times and can contest that both make noticeable improvements to handling .

I would not recommend the ultra racing strut bar instead of tightening the stock strut bar, but I would recommend the ultra racing strut bar in addition to tightening the stock bar.

I had previously only mentioned tightening the stock bar, because to do so is a fraction of the cost of any other mod.
 

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Two best 'bang for the buck' are IPD poly strut bar bushings and subframe bushings (amazing difference in feel for the latter).
Next if you do any suspension changes, the adjustable rear camber bushings are important.


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if you have not replaced any of the suspension bushings you are not getting the handling performance you paid for.
don't forget to do the sway bar bushings where the sway bar attaches to the sub-frames -- the ones under the U brackets.
on the rear sway bar U brackets make sure you juice the bolt where it goes through the sub-frame ear, or it will weld solid and you will never be able to remove it.
If you live in a winter salt zone the bolts are probably already permanently attached by galvanic action -- at some point you have to just leave it, or risk breaking off the sub-frame ears.

Even the IPD poly bushings get loose over time -- people forget to lube them. That heavy sway bar puts a heck of a lot of torque on the bushings.
It's the source of one of the mysterious rattles our cars are known for.

The upper motor mount cross-member -- designed to provide an attachment for the upper motor mount and absorb engine vibrations -- is a poor choice for 'strut-brace conversion'.
You can replace the flexible bushings at the towers with solid bushings, which adds vibrations and noise and ruins the comfort, without getting much improvement in handling.
An aftermarket strut brace is a noticeable improvement.

Ditto for front sub-frame poly bushings. The IPD "inserts" are inexpensive, easy to install, and surprisingly effective. Highly recommended.

I too add a thumbs-up for the larger IPD anti-sway bars and poly bushings. Get both front and rear.
The front sub-frame must be detached to install the front bar -- a good time to do the poly bushings there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm doing the poly subframe bushings tonight. I have a rear end over bump clunk that I'll be looking at before changing anything else. Might be exhaust hangers, might be sway links.

So, Strut braces front and rear or sways next?
 

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I have a rear end over bump clunk that I'll be looking at before changing anything else. So, Strut braces front and rear or sways next?
Our cars are notorious for rattles and clunks -- there are many causes.

If the one you describe is not solved by new end-links, take a look at the rear sway-bar bushings under the U-brackets that attach to the rear sub-frame.



Everyone who has installed the IPD track-spec sway bars loves them.
 

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The strut brace and the subframe brace especially really did it in. Lowering springs helped too but coilovers would be better.
 

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I've got every upgraded suspension component on my R minus the lower chassis braces, and the difference is night and day when I drive a stock R :)

- BC Coilovers
- IPD V70 R Sway Bars
- UR Upper Front and Rear Chassis Braces
- IPD Poly Subframe Bushings
- IPD Poly Engine Mount
- IPD Strut Bar Conversion Kit
- Alignment is factory with the only change being that Toe is set to 0...what this does is eliminate side hop and reduce/eliminate uneven tire wear. I haven't needed to install the IPD camber bushings or IPD toe bars, and all my suspension components are A-okay :)
 

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I did the IPD strut brace conversion, along with the motor mount and transmission torque brace and was very happy with the results. Didn't impact handling but the shift action is much better.
 

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I did the IPD strut brace conversion, along with the motor mount and transmission torque brace and was very happy with the results. Didn't impact handling but the shift action is much better.
Same. I thought it made a tiny bit of handling difference, but the shifting is night and day when applied to the MT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
so does it actually change the shifting feel at the lever or do you mean the car behaves better when you shift?
 

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so does it actually change the shifting feel at the lever or do you mean the car behaves better when you shift?
For my VR, it literally made the lever make a more positive shift into each slot. Before replacing those three items, it felt very sloppy. After, it was significantly improved and more direct. Mind you, when I removed my lower transmission mount, the bushings were basically shot, so I suspect even a new rubber bushing would have made "some" improvement.

Edit: For me, the price of the replacement poly unit through FCP is a no-brainer.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vo...c70-s70-v70-s60-xc70-s80-xc90-nordic-9141042u
 

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^ grrrrrrrrr. Ah well, IPD one already installed.

Another comment, the upgraded mounts mean you can't be lazy with the clutch anymore. Your passengers will know if you aren't smooth. There's a nice thunk if you release too quickly.
 
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