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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

Thunderchicken

Here's the beast in the backyard. Just rolled past 111k.


Athena

My other beast photobombs on the reg. Meet Athena.


IPD Track-Spec Swaybar Kit

IPD track swaybar kit. Can't wait to get it installed.


Parts Bag

I got fresh flywheel bolts, an angle gear service kit, new rear main seal, and stainless braided brake lines. Tossed it all in a ziploc so I don't lose anything before it goes to the shop.


Go Fast Goodies

These are the fun parts. SPEC stage 3+ clutch, SPEC single mass flywheel. There's also the IPD hardware kit for the swaybars, IPD subframe bushing inserts, new headlight washer blades, the V-Band adapter from the boostability kit, and a wiper arm bolt cover.


LSD-1

Quaife QDF14J! This guy is going in with the other parts. I'm waiting for everything to show up before dropping it off at the shop. I mean everything- they have to take the whole front end apart to install this thing, so anything they /can/ replace will be replaced. There's a fresh clutch slave cylinder, pilot and release bearings, differential bearings, brake lines, downpipe. Just about everything.

Took a while to figure out how to get photos up! Flickr's beta look doesn't have the option to post code... didn't realize that. Took an hour of head-scratching and cussing before I opted out of the beta. Now it's easy enough.

Beast


https://flic.kr/p/10789406316
Beast

Boost gauge.

Boost

UR brace, charge air pipe, IPD poly upper engine mount bushing.

Progress

****ING STUPID ASS TURBO INLET PIPE GODDAMMIT

Turbo Inlet

Installed a Thule air deflector. I think I like it. I haven't really decided yet.

Air Deflector

CCM bulb installed, Black Again applied to trim and roof rack, GROM issues sorted out, fog light installed, new fusebox cover in, sound deadening half done.


The foam rubber hole cover was missing, as was the top torx screw in the door handle. Also, the door unlock cable housing plastic was snapped off at the base and two of the speaker mounting rivets had been drilled. Stupid ****ing window replacement shop. I'm working with Syracuse Customs to replace the rivets with stainless steel anchors.


The hole is sealed again. Might superglue the the door cable housing, but might not.


Door panel before


Door panel during


Door panel complete. Both of the front doors are done, and it makes a world of difference. Rear doors, firewall, and floor pan are all on the list. I'll probably tackle the rear doors next because they're easy. The firewall and floor are going to have to wait until the shop has time. They're both big jobs.

UPDATE:

It's taken a few months, but most of the work has been done. Here's a list in order of completion (I think).

TWM short shifter (two plates)
IPD boost gauge
IPD HD TCV
UR front upper brace
IPD upper engine mount bushing
IPD Charge air pipe
IPD v-band adapter
IPD throttle inlet pipe
Phuz downpipe
Phuz FMIC
IPD billet transmission torque mount
IPD upper radiator hose
Thule accessory bar wind deflector
GROM (iphone)
Custom subwoofer enclosure/amp rack
UR rear upper brace
IPD block off plate
IPD CBV
IPD vacuum hose (just one installed so far)
IPD subframe bushings
UR lower front brace
Safelite windshield
IPD HD ignition coils
IPD rear anti-sway bar w/poly bushings
IPD 3" oval catback
UR rear lower brace
IPD/MTE softloader with "stage 2" tune
IPD front anti-sway bar w/poly bushings
ViVA stainless steel brake lines
Sound deadening - Stinger "roadkill"
OEM CCM bulbs
OEM driver side fog light
Front and rear O2 sensors replaced
Rear O2 spacer installed
OEM CCM bulb #2 installed
Arc XDi V2 450.4 to replace factory amp
CFW trunk spoiler
Adam's rotors
SPEC Stage 3+ clutch kit
Quaife QDF14J (front LSD)
ViVA single mass flywheel
OEM 05+ shift cable
IPD LCAs
OEM ball joints
OEM outer tie rod ends
OEM siren module

Remaining:
New bumper cover
Tint- Suntek CXP35
Power steering reservoir- the low pressure hose is leaking from where the clamp was over-tightened by a tech. Have new hose too.
Lower radiator hose- have the IPD part, but haven't installed it yet.
PCV overhaul + oil catch can
Sunroof rattle- need a warm day to pull the rails apart and glue everything back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I don't have pictures, but I installed a black UR strut tower bar and TWM short shifter last week. I had the wrong clutch cable, so I modified it to fit. Of course I broke the cup off of the cable in the process because I'm a clutz and shouldn't be allowed to touch nice things. I rigged it to work with some epoxy putty, but I'm not sure how long that will last. I'll probably ask one of my friends to weld it together when it breaks again. Shouldn't be that bad.

The shifter feels nice. It tightened everything up nicely and I used two counterweights. It's notchy but still driveable. I did notice that it's much harder to get the car into reverse now, but other than that, no complaints.

The strut tower bar is amazing. I can't believe the difference that thing made. Cornering feels way better, the vague wandering feeling is gone and it's more planted. I also notice that when I hit bumps or potholes, there's way less vibration and noise in the cabin. Instead of feeling each wheel hit them, it's like I only feel it once. I can't wait to see what the IPD sway bars will do.
 

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I don't have pictures, but I installed a black UR strut tower bar and TWM short shifter last week. I had the wrong clutch cable, so I modified it to fit. Of course I broke the cup off of the cable in the process because I'm a clutz and shouldn't be allowed to touch nice things. I rigged it to work with some epoxy putty, but I'm not sure how long that will last. I'll probably ask one of my friends to weld it together when it breaks again. Shouldn't be that bad.

The shifter feels nice. It tightened everything up nicely and I used two counterweights. It's notchy but still driveable. I did notice that it's much harder to get the car into reverse now, but other than that, no complaints.

The strut tower bar is amazing. I can't believe the difference that thing made. Cornering feels way better, the vague wandering feeling is gone and it's more planted. I also notice that when I hit bumps or potholes, there's way less vibration and noise in the cabin. Instead of feeling each wheel hit them, it's like I only feel it once. I can't wait to see what the IPD sway bars will do.
Nice ride! I know what you mean about the strut brace. Best bang for the buck/time of install, upgrade. Put on the rear brace and it'll be twice the fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks! The IPD guys keep telling me that the biggest thing I'll notice is the subframe bushing inserts. Between those and the sway bars, it's supposed to be a different animal. I'm definitely thinking about getting the other three UR braces.
 

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Nice start on our build
 

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I'm liking this build already
 

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Thanks! The IPD guys keep telling me that the biggest thing I'll notice is the subframe bushing inserts. Between those and the sway bars, it's supposed to be a different animal. I'm definitely thinking about getting the other three UR braces.
Yeah those items should really firm up the chassis. I would definitely do the rear brace but depending on your locale, some have had scraping issues with the lower braces. Not sure if it's really a problem or more of just an annoyance. Just something to keep in mind. I know some Rs on here have the lower braces so maybe they can chime in.
 

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What's your target HP for this build? SPEC Stage 3+ is pretty heavy duty...
 

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Lower front brace scrapes frequently and i'm on stock springs... (alignment rack at the shop, ice mounds in the winter)

Lower rear i've had almost no trouble.

Upper rear seems gimmicky the way it attaches to sheet metal basically - i feel like it couldnt do anything (so i havent purchased it). Do others have different results from the upper rear?
 

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^the rear upper makes a very noticeable difference.
 

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I'm hoping to get some spacers along with some front tower poly insterts along with a UR rear upper brace. I can report back in a week or two on how it feels
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I finally paid off the car, so I'm redirecting my car payments to performance parts. I've been saving since June for this! I have to wait another pay cycle to get everything installed, so it's going into the shop in early December.

I'm aiming for a reliable 300hp at the wheels and I want to get it all put to the ground. I'm trying to keep the look and ride as stock as possible while making the handling more engaging, so all my suspension money is going toward stiffening and bracing the chassis. I went with the stage 3+ clutch because it's supposed to be streetable while holding 425hp. Hopefully it's closer to stock than a normal stage 3 clutch. Everyone knows what the front LSD is for :) I'd like to get a rear LSD too, but it probably isn't happening until next summer.

The downpipe and exhaust are coming in January, intercooler in February, and tune in March. When my brake rotors are toasted, I'll upgrade to two piece slotted in the front and one piece slotted in the rear. I'm still trying to decide if I want to do a turbo upgrade- I might have to in order to get 300 whp.
 

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Nice looking car tint them windows.
 

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Nice progress & R! Throw the other winglet on so you can get more shots from other angles :D
 

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How do you like that Stage 3+ clutch?
It's not bad just takes some getting used to. If I were to do it again I would say 50/50 between spec and stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It's not bad just takes some getting used to. If I were to do it again I would say 50/50 between spec and stock.
So I should have got a 2+ then? :)

Nice progress & R! Throw the other winglet on so you can get more shots from other angles :D
You're telling me! I ordered the FRP one from ViVA and it'll be another month before it's in my hands.

Get some of these photos in the Calendar submission thread man!!
That's a thing?
 
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