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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hope everyone is doing swimmingly today. I'm new to the forum and writing because I need some help.
I bough a 2004 VR M66 with 188k two weeks ago. I am expecting to have to do some work on the car and that is becoming true very quick. I've prioritized the following two items give my experience thus far.

1) PVC & oil leak.
I took the car out four nights ago for some spirited driving; I did two hard pulls after the car was warm. I pulled back into the garage and smelled burning oil when I opened the door after parking. The following morning, there was oil on the floor of the garage in a seemingly random drip pattern. About six spots ranging in size from a quarter to the size of a coffee mug. Opened the hood and the dip stick was popped out a 1/2". Because i'm still learning the car, I simply assumed I must not have pushed the dip stick all the way back in when checking the oil the night previously; I cleaned up the oil and continued on with my business. Last night, I did one 2nd gear pull on my way home from work, same smell, same oil on the garage floor this morning, dip stick popped 1/2" out. I crawl under the car and it looks like the oil is dripping from transmission area, but not the transmission itself.
Is this oil possibly coming from the turbo?
When I don't drive the car hard, no oil drips onto the garage floor. Is it possible I only have a leak during a hard pull when pressure is at it's highest?
After reading, my belief is I need to replace the entire PVC system. Is this correct? Who has the best kit, FCP Euro?
If I replace the whole system, what else should I do "while i'm in there?" or what seals can I access/should I check on the front of the engine?

2) Transmission whine:
My transmission has a whine (not a whistle) in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears during acceleration. The whine changes with RPM which is why I believe is the tranny. When coasting the car goes quite.
The car is drivable, although the gear change can feel a little clunky at times. The clutch doesn't slip, it pulls as I'd expect it to, its just the noise.
Please listen to the below video that I took this morning... sorry for the poor image quality; just going for the sound clip.
https://youtu.be/yy37pcN3g7M
Do I need to change tranny fluid?
Is this expected with 188k miles?

I feel like my VR is forcing to have a warm welcome on the forums.
Thanks in advance for any input.

-Andrew
 

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There are quite a few posts regarding the PCV system and debate if order OEM parts or the kit from IPD. I ordered the kit from IPD, plus a throttle body gasket, and the check valves for the EVAP lines which run under the intake. I also replaced all the hoses that ran under the intake at the same time. Others replace the thermostat at the same time. Since you are draining the anti-freeze it might be a good time to replace the radiator hoses at the same time.

Can't really add any additional guidance on the transmission whine.

GLM
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
gim409, did some more searching and found a few threads discussing the difference between parts providers. You really can, and should search everything, thanks.

Additional PCV specific question (couldn't find this in my search). In FCPs PCV replacement video, they do not replace the entire engine coolant & crankcase hose assembly (more commonly known as $200 I believe), they only replace the crankcase breather hose with an individual part from a T6. This saves about $150. Is this a commonly excepted method of replacement? Or do people discover the engine coolant hose sections needs to be replaced as well? I want to do the right fix but, have a bunch other maintenance I need to spend money as well.

-Thanks again, Andrew
 

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Buy the spendy hose. Your dealer may have an online store where it will be much, much cheaper. And do not forget to use the updated banjo bolt. Do the PCV job post haste before a seal blows and the engine has to come out. You're not gonna see the front of the engine doing the PCV system, it's 90 degrees away...

Pull the ebrake a click to get the ebrake light and see if you still get a whine driving the car.

FYI you are going to spend a lot of money to do things the first year if the car hasn't been properly cared for (and the PCV says it has not)
 

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I just dealt with my transmission. It would also whine in some of the gears, the faster it went the louder it got. Other than the noise, it shifted great. From what I could gather, it sounded like a bearing was going out in one of the gear shafts. I ended up buying a new (to me) transmission with a Quaife LSD from another enthusiast.

According to Volvo, you cannot order parts for the M66 as it is a sealed unit. Some people on SS have suggested you might be able to put together a kit with the right bearings and seals. I haven't heard of anyone successfully do that so far.

If you do change your trans fluid, look for metal, and install a magnetic drain plug.

Good luck!
 

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I just dealt with my transmission. It would also whine in some of the gears, the faster it went the louder it got. Other than the noise, it shifted great. From what I could gather, it sounded like a bearing was going out in one of the gear shafts. I ended up buying a new (to me) transmission with a Quaife LSD from another enthusiast.

According to Volvo, you cannot order parts for the M66 as it is a sealed unit. Some people on SS have suggested you might be able to put together a kit with the right bearings and seals. I haven't heard of anyone successfully do that so far.

If you do change your trans fluid, look for metal, and install a magnetic drain plug.

Good luck!
The seals are sold by Volvo... The bearings have the specs/brand stamped on them, they're an off the shelf part. Synchros and whatnot are the big question for the M66...
 

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There are quite a few posts regarding the PCV system and debate if order OEM parts or the kit from IPD. I ordered the kit from IPD, plus a throttle body gasket, and the check valves for the EVAP lines which run under the intake. I also replaced all the hoses that ran under the intake at the same time. Others replace the thermostat at the same time. Since you are draining the anti-freeze it might be a good time to replace the radiator hoses at the same time.

Can't really add any additional guidance on the transmission whine.

GLM
Follow up to this. I want to do my vacuum hoses but I can't seem to find the hose size from VIDA since the parts diagram for the intake acts like it doesn't exist. Went to NAPA and had them try to match up the one that goes into the middle of the intake with an SAE size but the hose just doesn't fit without kinking entirely. Any advice on a specific part number for this hose or a specific size? They seem to go by tenths of mm.
 

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The tcv lines are 5?mm the rest are 8 and 10 mm ID iirc. I bought off amazon.
 

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Follow up to this. I want to do my vacuum hoses but I can't seem to find the hose size from VIDA since the parts diagram for the intake acts like it doesn't exist. Went to NAPA and had them try to match up the one that goes into the middle of the intake with an SAE size but the hose just doesn't fit without kinking entirely. Any advice on a specific part number for this hose or a specific size? They seem to go by tenths of mm.
I do the same as Hounddogger. I keep a roll of various size of hoses around and then clip off what I need. I believe the one to the middle of the intake is 8 mm id and I would think 5/16 would work. Just take the check valve to the parts store with you to verify at NAPA. I usually attach the roll or a much longer piece than necessary and route it and don't cut it until I'm certain of no kinks.

GLM
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Buy the spendy hose. Your dealer may have an online store where it will be much, much cheaper. And do not forget to use the updated banjo bolt. Do the PCV job post haste before a seal blows and the engine has to come out. You're not gonna see the front of the engine doing the PCV system, it's 90 degrees away...

Pull the ebrake a click to get the ebrake light and see if you still get a whine driving the car.

FYI you are going to spend a lot of money to do things the first year if the car hasn't been properly cared for (and the PCV says it has not)
End of weekend update for everyone. All PCV parts ordered from FCP; I'll plan on knocking the install out this week. Hopefully Wed/Thur.

Hounddogger, I followed your recommendation the the whine persisted but, while I was out conducting this test I believe I have refined the problem to the engine bay, and NOT the trans of angle gear.
While driving, if I take the car out of gear and coast, at any speed, there is no whine. I tried coasting with the clutch engaged, and disengaged, no whine either time. With this test, I know the sound is now changing with engine RPM rather than drivetrain speed. So I believe it is either the PS pump, alternator, or another accessory (AC condenser?).
Is there a way to test the PS pump or alternator to see if one of them is about to go?
 

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Take the belt off and drive it around the block. See if the sound goes away.
 

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End of weekend update for everyone. All PCV parts ordered from FCP; I'll plan on knocking the install out this week. Hopefully Wed/Thur.

Hounddogger, I followed your recommendation the the whine persisted but, while I was out conducting this test I believe I have refined the problem to the engine bay, and NOT the trans of angle gear.
While driving, if I take the car out of gear and coast, at any speed, there is no whine. I tried coasting with the clutch engaged, and disengaged, no whine either time. With this test, I know the sound is now changing with engine RPM rather than drivetrain speed. So I believe it is either the PS pump, alternator, or another accessory (AC condenser?).
Is there a way to test the PS pump or alternator to see if one of them is about to go?
Easy way to diagnose: take a screwdriver, put it on the various parts (PS pump, alternator), put your ear on the other end (the handle) of the screwdriver and have someone apply some throttle; if it is either one of those the difference in noise/whine should be noticeable.
 
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