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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, well I recieved my OBX DP today and it looks pretty good and I'm glad I didnt spend 1000 on one..
Gaskets look ok, sort of a pliable semi-metallic compound so I will stick with those currently..

Also it has all new nuts and bolts for the flanges.. So I take it I dont need to source new ones now..

In regards to painting, wrapping, ect... I think I've decided to forgo doing any High temp base paint and have decided to just go with the DEI Titanium exhaust heat wrap which does not require any high temp silicone coating.. So the process is simplified while improving product performance..

Have the Cel Boss O2 spacer from IPD so I believe I'm ready to go...

Any other opinions?
 

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Lube your nuts.

Don't forget to use anti-seize when you install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Our R, duly noted!
 

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Lube them a few times; like, say you plan on swapping this weekend, than lube/spray (pb blast, wd40, etc) today - drive, the heat will help, blast again tomorrow and friday, then blast an hour before working on it. When I did my 04 about 2 years ago (basically same as your 06 as far as time goes) the bolts broke free on one crank and no scary feeling unbolting.

GL and congrats.
 

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(basically same as your 06 as far as time goes) the bolts broke free on one crank and no scary feeling unbolting.
Big difference is that '04's have nuts while the 06's have those horrible 10mm bolts. With the '04 you can get a much more direct hit with the PBblaster where as with the god damn poop bolts on the '06 its hard for the fluid to reach the thread :mad:

I'd spray the crap out of the bolts and do it a lot. Have on hand some six point sockets as they have a less chance of breaking.

Also check this thread out if **** gets rough --> LINKY
 

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I was implying time, like heat/rust/build up/etc. But I know what you mean by different secure tie downs, it is a pain!

OP, great link in 850's comment, check it out.
 

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I was implying time, like heat/rust/build up/etc. But I know what you mean by different secure tie downs, it is a pain!
Gotcha :)

Oh ya, OP, if you have access to an air ratchet/impact gun that too will help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys..

Well so I have an 06 so hopefully this isnt an issue..

I will be taking it to a paramedic who works with me that does car work on the side and has some racing experience so I'm sure he has the knowledge and tools..
I can jack the car up and spray some PB blaster before I go to get this done but that is a huge PITA just to spray a little lube and then set it back down.. If necessary then I will..

Also the bolts that came with the pipe... I take it that these are correct for reinstallation?

Oh, also the DP/exhaust end on this pipe has 3 offset bolts.. 2 at 180 degree angles and one sitting at 90 degrees between them.. Is this just an 'extra' addition for certain situations?
 

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Speaking from my experience with MY 04, the bottom hole is unused and not needed. I cut it off so it didn't hang down so far.

Like I said, lube you're nuts. You should be able to get the turbo end from under the hood. The exhaust end, reach under or park on a driveway approach and reach under to spray.
 

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Also the bolts that came with the pipe... I take it that these are correct for reinstallation?
I wouldn't reuse the bolts that are existing because chances are they are going to get mangled. Get OEM bolts from your local dealer.

You should be able to get the turbo end from under the hood. The exhaust end, reach under or park on a driveway approach and reach under to spray.
+1 and a little addition, he will need to remove the turbo heat shield to access the DP/Turbo flange connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ah ok Our R, thought you had initially meant lubing them after install.. Are you able to see the turbo/DP connection under the hood? I never recall that.. Its raining outside so I cant check now..
 

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Are you able to see the turbo/DP connection under the hood? I never recall that.. Its raining outside so I cant check now..

Yes, you will need to remove the heat shield to see the turbo DP flange.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Arrs.. I meant that the bolts that I have with the pipe, they are new.. I wouldnt reuse old bolts.. I would assume they are correct specs.

So under the hood you can access the DP/turbo connection? There is a heat shield that must be removed? Sorry but havent delved that deeply into the engine compartment and I'm mechanically uninclinded.. :)
 

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Forgot about the heat shield as mine has been off since the caR was new. Like to see the turbo when I look under the hood.
You could start by removing it now as it's really not needed. Then your nuts will be free to oil up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Is it easily accessible from the engine bay with basic tools?
 

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From what I recall it's maybe 4 bolts. I think a couple go back in when it's removed. Basic tools will work as long as they're not a BFH and duct tape.
Make sure to check the O2 sensor wire so it doesn't sag as it runs over the turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok cool, I will check it out when its not raining..
 

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Very easy to access from engine bay.
 

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If you reinstall your heat shield with the OBX downpipe the shield will rattle. I say just take it off and leave it off, since you're heat wrapping the downpipe you'll reduce heat in that area anyways.

I've tried using washers to space the heat shield far enough away from the downpipe flange to prevent the rattle but it's just not worth the trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
hhmm ok thanks Stepan, thats a big help.. Is it the fact that is hits or rattles on the DP?

I will look for it tomorrow and see if I can remove it easily...
 
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