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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to educate myself totally with the search feature, but it's just too much to take in. I keep getting led astray. I'm not new to the car forum world at all. I've posted a few super-huge build threads in the Subaru and VW worlds, so I know what forum knowledge is worth... That's why I'm here and asking for help. What I'm cashing my life-line in for is a where do I go from here?
About me:
New to Volvo's 100%. Keep in mind everything I know has been from SwedSpeed.... Bought a stock '04 S60R w/ 104K randomly because I searched "AWD" on Craigslist. I saw this for $9,800 and I was sold. Got it for $9k. I thought R's were in the ~20K range...? Bought it, LOVE it, want to treat it better! Found out it had a problem JUST before I bought it, and the P/O gave the dealer the go-ahead to fix it just to sell it. (can be good or bad...?) I found out it had a cracked block and was rebuilt with a 95K block at the dealership. New T-belt and service items, but probably not super through due to budget? I'm worried, but there's no oil or water loss. Seems solid. Any thoughts??? I'm not too worried about the block/head. It was done at Nalley Volvo. If it were up to me I'd go all-in and do EVERYTHING I could while it was stripped down...

So here's where I'm at.
-Anit-Skid service pops up from time to time. The nearest dealer/VIDA is in Denver, so I'm just going to hope things sort themselves out??? There doesn't seem to be an easy way to fix this. I've read that dealers will chase this problem for a few months. That's not an option for me since Denver is 2 hours away if there's not a blizzard.... The AWD is still working according to the gravel-road test. Pulls up hill totally evenly and strong.
-I've had symptoms of a coil failure during a heavy few days of extreme rain. It went away, but I bought an IPD coil and I'm keeping it in the glove box in case it comes back and keeps me from driving. I can't really fix this unless the symptoms come back? Runs fine now... Hasn't been a problem again. Never a CEL.
-I did the IPD DEM cover even though it's super cold here. I was hoping it'd solve the Anti-Skid problem. It didn't.
-Thinking performance, I did an order with IPD for:
POLY upper ENGINE MOUNT
LOWER TORQUE TRANSMISSION MOUNT
POLY BUSHING SUBFRAME INSERT KIT
CROSS BAR POLY
CROSS BAR BRKT PAIR
... All I notice after the last order from IPD is more vibration at idle. Not impressed. $240 down the tube IMHO... That's why I'm giving up reading stupid reviews from people I can now only assume follow-up with a new thread about blow-off valves. So I'm asking for help from people who know what will actually help.

If it were YOUR car, what would you do from here?
 

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The engine should be fine so long you don't abuse it, and especially if it's done by a Volvo dealer, so the quality should be there.

The stuff you bought from IPD are to replace worn mounts, I doubt they're there to help you fix your Anti-skid issue.

Speaking of that Anti-skid, yep, you can't tell until you've VIDA-ed it to find out. Maybe drop by a local Autozone to do a free OBD-II read on any issues? See if anything pops up...
 

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Do yourself a favor and order a knockoff copy of VIDA/DICE (plenty of threads about it!) on the internet. Anti-Skid could be caused by a lot of things, mine liked to show up when there was snow on the ground. Restart of the car an hr later and it was gone.
 

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You will get use to the in car vibrations. You will get vibration with any poly mounts so you can't avoid it.
 

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-Thinking performance, I did an order with IPD for:
POLY upper ENGINE MOUNT
LOWER TORQUE TRANSMISSION MOUNT
POLY BUSHING SUBFRAME INSERT KIT
CROSS BAR POLY
CROSS BAR BRKT PAIR
... All I notice after the last order from IPD is more vibration at idle. Not impressed. $240 down the tube IMHO... That's why I'm giving up reading stupid reviews from people I can now only assume follow-up with a new thread about blow-off valves. So I'm asking for help from people who know what will actually help.

If it were YOUR car, what would you do from here?
I have items 2, 3 & 4 from your list: significant difference with no vibrations. Also, I thought 4&5 are mutually exclusive (i.e. 5 makes a rigid link making 4 redundant.)
Make sure you are using the BLUE poly insert in the lower mount and consider changing to the newer (rubber) square upper OEM mount.
 

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That's a pretty good deal for the car, it's pretty much worth fixing anything that's broken. I'd say find an indy that will check it out for cheap/free.. Or your other option is that most Volvo dealers will take off the 135$ diagnostic fee so long as you fix the issue at the dealer, however that's not saying much. You'll still most likely save money doing it yourself even with the diagnostic fee. Again, and indy will do it for less. Just find any Euro/volvo specialist shop and they should have the means to check non-generic codes.

As for the vibration, I've got the solid mounts for the strut bar engine mount and have no extra vibrations.
 

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About the coil thing; if it was my car, I would not carry a spare part planning to swap it on the roadside. The reason is: Unless it is the left-most cylinder that is in trouble, you have to remove the Charge air pipe to remove the engive cover. This pipe opens up two important holes, the turbo and the intercooler. You don't want to let any tiny grain of sand or flies/crickets in there. Just do the job preventively... you don't need to neplace all 5, like for spark plugs, coil are On-Off.... I guess you know it that is why you only bought one...

Even if you have rags and all... That is to me a too big job to be done on the roadside, you need torx sockets, which noone has in an emergency "jobmate brand " socket set.
 

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Even if a fly did get in there, it would be annihilated. lol
 

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I had previously built up a 2008 S60 2.5T, the first thing I did with my R is the engine mounts (like you did), K&N air filter, ipd boost gauge in my vent pod, and full chassis braces (upper front, lower front, lower rear, upper rear). The chassis braces made a huge difference in the way the car handles. Before I wasn't too impressed with the cornering but the chassis braces make everything so much firmer and definite.
 

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Do yourself a favor and order a knockoff copy of VIDA/DICE (plenty of threads about it!) on the internet. Anti-Skid could be caused by a lot of things
+100

No question. Buy a DICE with a copy of vida and figure out what's going on...with the anti-skid and the coil. It pays for itself in one trip to the shop.
 

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I'm trying to educate myself totally with the search feature, but it's just too much to take in. I keep getting led astray...
-Thinking performance, I did an order with IPD for:
POLY upper ENGINE MOUNT
LOWER TORQUE TRANSMISSION MOUNT
... All I notice after the last order from IPD is more vibration at idle. So I'm asking for help from people who know what will actually help.

If it were YOUR car, what would you do from here?
When you put in the upper poly did you pre load the engine? It should only be tightened down when the car is in drive (engine shifted forward, requires a second person with foot on the brake pedal). If it is tightened down when the car is in neutral, the resulting vibration would be insane.

But, if there is still too much residual vibration for you, then doing the trans mount poly and the upper in a stock bushing should eliminate 95% of the vibration and still give crisper shifts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
When you put in the upper poly did you pre load the engine? It should only be tightened down when the car is in drive (engine shifted forward, requires a second person with foot on the brake pedal). If it is tightened down when the car is in neutral, the resulting vibration would be insane.

But, if there is still too much residual vibration for you, then doing the trans mount poly and the upper in a stock bushing should eliminate 95% of the vibration and still give crisper shifts.
This sounds like what I may have done wrong. It's a manual, so I did it in first. Would that cause extra vibrations? My stuff came with directions for all the other mounts but nothing for this. Looked simple so I went for it. I could simulate what you're asking for by putting her in first, no parking brake, and on a slight downhill. That'd pre load it??? If not, perhaps I'll do the rubber upper and poly lower.

I'm keeping the spare coil in my glover not to necessarily change it roadside, but when I get where I'm going should things get BAD. I primarily drive it 2+ hours each way. I ride my bikes when I'm in town. Steamboat Springs is small, and Denver or anywhere worth driving to is at least 2 hours away. The time I experienced symptoms it would sputter badly below 2-2,500 RPM's. Above that it was smooth, so I was able to jump back on the highway and drive it home.

And as far as buying VIDA/DICE, I am not opposed to that. I will have to do some extra buying on top of that for a cheap computer that's Windows based, or buy some software to run Windows on my Mac. These days they'll cost about the same. Hopefully the warning doesn't come on ever time I drive over snow... That'd be annoying. I'm driving on packed snow 4-5 months out of the year!

I'll call around and see if there's a shop closer to me than Denver that has VIDA/DICE or code reading abilities. AutoZone can read engine codes, but the guy said they couldn't read the error messages unique to Volvo. Was he wrong?

Thanks again for all the replies! I'm looking forward to getting things ironed out and learning more about the R. So far it's been great! My autocrossing and track days are behind me, so I was wanting something smooth and fast to log some road trips over twisty mountain passes with. Seems like I made a great choice. Wish I had found a V70R, but I'm still happy.
 

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Elevate sells a softer top mount that will significantly reduce / eliminate vibration. I switched to it because the IPD poly one was too much vibration for my tastes
 

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Ant skid is likely steering angle sensor behind your steering wheel. Had the same problem and we finally replaced. No more intermitiant message.
 
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