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12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After a serious incident involving an aging oil pump and clogged arteries, my beloved '88 745ti decided to throw the #4 rod through the block, even knocking a chunk out of the starter.

I searched for some time to find a decent heart donor, but could never find what I wanted. One day I was looking at a 1974 Mercedes 260 Sedan as a possible replacement and met a man, with a few Volvos.

He offered me a 1985 745 GLE Turbo, that had recently received the heart of a 1990 740TI. An I got the whole car for $500US.

Much to my delight, the 1990 Engine has a Garrett TD04H Turbo (Great BOV Noise), and an M46 transmission from the same 1990 car.

I set to work, removing both engines, from both cars, and pulling other vital organs needed for the transplant.

There are a great many differences between the AutoTrans and the ManualTrans cars, but all of them are easy to overcome provided the donor car is right beside you.

I have a few concerns that I think deserve comment:

1. The complete idiot that decided to use a French Metric Stud thread pattern on the slave cylinders should be beaten with an $87.50 rubber clutch hose from the dealer. (Thanks to FCP for providing it for only $30.00)

2. Volvo Hydraulic Motor Mounts self destruct on removal. (It's a good thing I won't be needing those $50.00 each parts)

3. A motor mount bracket that attaches the solid rubber motor mount, to the front cross member shouldn't be made out of "cheap" aluminum. (Thanks FPC for the $27.50 replacement on that)

4. Just how many 1988 745TIs cooked fuse #16 when the heater blower went bad?
(The 1985 had a perfect donor, and boy is that a tedious job, swapping the fuse panel)

5. Did volvo ever build a dash that didn't crack? (The dash pad industry thanks you for your support)

6. How is it that a car can remain completely rust free, except for the tail gate? (I've become intimately familiar with the underside of my '88, and the only place it has any sign of rust is around the rear window washer sprayer. The previous owner must have filled that unit with battery acid.)

7. Why is there such a thriving industry on eBay that revolves around the lenses for these cars. Brake Lights, turn signals, etc. (Go ahead, look it up, heck just search Volvo 740 and look at the number of replacement lenses. Maybe the factory units are the target of some alien conspiracy)

Mostly I'm just being humorus, because I actually love my car; and would suffer all of these and the other problems, just to watch the boost gauge swing to the right. I will gladly suffer the cracked windshield trim, and curling window felt, to enjoy a WOT sprint to the next light. I will smile and nod my head when someone tells me it looks like a miniature hearse, and giggle to myself when the 3" exhaust reaches a lofty note, just before the BOV exhales.

BUT! I will fix that cracked dash if it's the last thing I ever do.

210 Posts
Re: The trials and tribulations of an engine + trans swap. Long Post... (CarlieBentley)


I'm sure you already know about dash caps as a temporary dash pad fix. They don't last forever, but they're a decent repair as long as you keep 'em out of the sun.

If you really want the dash 100% RIGHT, you should try Just Dashes in Van Nuys, California. They rebuild dash pads like new, with new padding and a new outer skin in the correct factory grain and colour. Expensive ($800 and up), but the dash pad is better than a perfect vintage one, since all the materials except the steel core are brand new. http://www.justdashes.com

I've seen some of their work on a friend's restored Cadillac Fleetwood, and it is unbelievable. They do door panels, armrests, any vinyl interior parts. The website explains how their restoration process works.

12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: The trials and tribulations of an engine + trans swap. Long Post... (CarlieBentley)

The saga Continues:

Okay, I managed to overcome all obstacles and I have the engine, transmission, and driveshaft in the car.

Yes, the pedals were nearly a perfect fit. The only problem is that the actuator rod from the brake booster is apparently shorter on the ABS car, than on the Non ABS car, and as such, I had to "adjust" the brake and cruise switches to function properly.

The wiring, was much more simple than I imagined at first for the auto-to-stick swap. It was infact intuitive.

During this swap, I've taken the availability of good parts on the parts car, to fix or repair other issues on my 745.
Heater Controls, and Blower Motor...Check!
Glove Compartment...Check!
Dash Trim...SNAP! Dang It! &*$&^#%%@ Okay I'll find another one. The one above the glove compartment yet below the vents. Arg.

I also snagged a good passengers power window motor and regulator, I tested it to make sure it was good, but unfortunately once in the car, it still doesn't work. I "hot wired" it once installed to check for proper installation and function, however, neither switch will cause it to operate. All three of the other windows work, yet this one won't. So now I get to trace wires. I suspected that the door was getting no power, but the power mirror and door lock work well, so I'm a little stumped.

All the gauges are functioning properly, and I allowed the car to warm up to operating temp, and it runs beautifully.

I decided to take a short test run, and after fully bleeding the clutch I started to back out of the drive when I heard a "ping+thump" and realized I no longer had clutch control. That little clip ring holding the slave cylinder is a bear to get perfect. Oh well, I need a new clutch slave cylinder anyway.

I installed the back seat-backs with the head rests, and installed the headrest inserts for the front.

Now I'm off to buy Lenses. I have a busted front park on the passengers side, and the rest are kind of dull. $40 for new parks, and $45 for new Turns isn't a bad deal.

Next Stop: The Exhaust Shop, I'm having 3" custom bent from the downpipe to the location of the resonator, where it'll encounter a Flowmaster Delta Flow 40 Series with a single 3" inlet and dual 2.5" outlets, I'm running 2.5 duals in parallel to the rear. I've never liked the sound of a muffler at the very end of an exhaust system. I got your zoom zoom zoom. LOL

K, that's all for now.
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