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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)

B5254T4/M56 installation.

The M56 uses a completely different mounting system when in the S40. Luckily the transmission case still had the threaded holes to bolt on the P80 trans bracket and mount. I just had to clean/chase the threads in the case and swap the bracket from the original automatic transmission.
I had a brain fart and forgot to replace the engine mount bracket for the motor mount at the front subframe. This skews the engine and will not let the block bolt to the mount on the passenger side of the subframe. So I made another trip to the junkyard only to find the bracket was already gone from my favorite V70 donor car. The salvage yard had several other P80s but all were pre-‘99. I felt like I was making good progress and didn’t want this to slow me down so I drilled out the top hole on the N engine bracket and bolted it to the block as a temporary fix until I could source the correct bracket. I replaced all of the engine mounts including the lower torque mount with new OEM parts. I think it was about 4 or 5 anxious weeks before a ‘99 XC70 showed up at the yard to donate it’s bracket. There were, however, plenty of things to do in the meantime.

The wrong bracket


The temporary bracket


Make sure to “clock” the knock sensors and torque to 15ft lb. Over tightening can damage the sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Manual swap part 3:
With the engine and transmission installed, I just had to connect the shift linkage and hydraulic line to finish the manual swap. If only it were that easy. Sure, the shift cables were simple to connect, but the clutch line required a little tinkering to get to work. I bought a new line with the new clutch master cylinder but found it would not connect to the transmission slave cylinder. I had kept the original clutch line for the S40 when I removed the M56 but that would not connect to the master cylinder. I cut and flared the ends off of both lines and connected them with a junction. The line to the internal slave cylinder has a smaller diameter than the line from the clutch master cylinder. I’m not sure if this is a problem? Maybe this is part of the sticking clutch pedal? Someone here will probably (hopefully) tell me what line I should have used. Once the line was installed I connected the clutch master cylinder to the brake fluid reservoir with a short section of hose. The reservoir already has the fitting. You just have cut the end off. I back bled the clutch line by pumping brake fluid from the slave cylinder bleeder back to the master cylinder fluid reservoir.
I cut out and removed all of the wire harness that went to the transmission with the exception of the wires for the reverse lights (blue and blue/white wires). After soldering the neutral safety switch wires together (green and green/red wires), I put the rest of the harness including the reverse light wires into some generic plastic loom and ran this over the bell housing part of the transmission. I soldered the reverse light wiring to a plug I scavenged from the Ghettolvo.







 

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It's funny reading this because I'm getting flashbacks from a few hours ago lol. Thanks for your help on those wires. I found the Green/Red wire but had confusion finding the solid Green one as there were 2 of them. I figured the correct one was probably the thicker gauge wire just like the Green/Red one, especially if they are starter related. So that's what I went with.

As far as the blue wires for the reverse light, I tried finding a connector that I could use to splice the ends to and on the other end, have a plug I can put on reverse light switch but I wasn't successful. Even tried a Ford Mustang style one from parts store but it was too loose. So in the end, I used some bullet style connectors that I can just plug over the switch. Hopefully that works.

Also, there wasn't a Blue/White wire in that loom. I did find a Blue/Light Gray wire so that's what I used. Maybe the sheathing hasn't aged well and became a little more dull. I did verify though that it was the wire that went into the correct number pin in that TCM plug.


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Thanks for the detailed write-ups. I’ll add it to the library for when I do my swap one of these days.


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Discussion Starter #25
I’m glad I can help. It would have been a lot easier to write about this when I was doing it rather than a year later. I should have taken more pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
More accessory bracket fun:
Another difference of the RN accessory bracket is that the power steering reservoir is not on the pump. Instead, it fits between the module box and coolant bottle which means the coolant tank needs to be changed also. Like most of this build it required a little ingenuity. First I had to drill out the welds and remove the existing coolant bottle bracket. Next is fabricating a new mount. Alas we have the humble Volvo license plate bracket. Cut it, bend it, drill it, and rivet it to the shock tower. I installed a good used coolant tank and power steering reservoir that I picked from a ‘99 S70 (I know...I should have pulled these when getting the compressor, power steering lines, engine bracket and what not). I had to swap the coolant level sensor with the one from the original tank as the electrical plug is different. I have since replaced both of these reservoirs with new OEM parts...just because.











 

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Nice...keeping it OE LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
N/A intake manifold:
I really wanted to use the RN intake manifold and PCV system but could not find a easy way to mount the manual (non-electric) throttle body so I went with the N/A intake manifold instead. I removed the intake manifold and throttle body from a ‘94 non-turbo 850 found at the junkyard. They also had a 960 that I was able to get the throttle plate without the plastic puck from. I enlarged the intake ports to match those on the cylinder head with a die-grinder using the old intake manifold gasket as a guide. I also had to drill and tap a hole to add another vacuum port for the turbo compressor bypass valve. I thoroughly cleaned the inside of the intake to flush out the metal shavings left from enlarging the ports and from drilling/tapping the vacuum fitting. I also cleaned the outside to make it pretty.

Gotta love LKQ


Port matching


Before


After




Additional vacuum port for cbv


All clean and shiny. I should have clear coated it though.


N/A vs Turbo
 

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Here's a simple question - how did you clean the plastic coating off those clutch lines? Had a heck of a time with some brake line work because of the coating.

 

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Here's a simple question - how did you clean the plastic coating off those clutch lines? Had a heck of a time with some brake line work because of the coating.

the hard brake lines should be monel :confused:
 

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My P2 XC70 they are like a black plastic coating over steel lines, had a tough time cleaning off the coating to put new ends on the lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I don’t remember it being a problem. I think I used some emery cloth. Make sure you slide the fitting on the line before making the flare. It sounds simple but I managed to forget not once but twice! D’oh!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The tune:
We were about midway through the build when someone asked me if we were going to go with coil on plug ignition and variable valve timing control. I had no idea this was even possible? After researching what was available we decided to go with VAST Tuning to take advantage of both COP and VVT. I was also intrigued with the upgrade to M4.4 and the ability of data-logging to get a custom tune to our specific mods. Installation of a wideband controller is required for the ecu to datalog the air fuel mixture. Aaron at VAST recommended the AEM X series wideband controller.
I initially installed the gauge at the blank switch plate just to the right of the steering column. It worked fine but I was never happy with how low it was. I modified the original mount by making a bracket out of LEGOs (they are Scandinavian after all!). This was a big improvement and made it much easier to see. Aaron also recommended replacing the fuel pump so I replaced the factory pump with a DW200. In addition, I installed a VDO boost gauge in the left upper dash vent. A-pillar gauge pods are probably easier to see and better in most ways...they’re just not my thing.







I filed a switch blank flat and super-glued a lego 2x10 flat to the front. From there I built it up using some wedges and bricks. The wideband gauge is mounted to a 4x6 flat. To finish it off, I put some smooth flat pieces on the front. I had to dremel out parts of the insides to pass the wires through.





 

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By any chance, do you have any pics/info for installing the DW200 pump cause I'm about to get into that?

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Discussion Starter #35
Sorry Nick, I couldn’t find any pics of the DW200 install. I watched one of Robert’s videos on removing/disassembling the fuel pump. I remember having to shave/file some plastic to get the pump to fit. It’s slightly larger around and is a tight fit. The difficulty scale is not very high compared to other parts of the build.
 

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Yeah I know exactly what video you're talking about. Sounds good

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Discussion Starter #37
Oh yeah...the OBX down pipe bolt holes didn’t line up just right. I had to enlarge one hole slightly. I destroyed 2 drill bits during this process. Stainless steel is hard (huge understatement!)

 

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Smh. I remember the same exact thing happened to me with my stainless steel obx unit. In the end, I had to send it back and got the black maximizer unit instead (same company).

Maybe you got the same one I sent back LOL

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Odd. Neither of my OBX/MEX kits had that issue.
 

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Smh. I remember the same exact thing happened to me with my stainless steel obx unit. In the end, I had to send it back and got the black maximizer unit instead (same company).

Maybe you got the same one I sent back LOL

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I’ve heard of that on a few occasions.

IPD is now also outsourcing and cheaping out on their p80 turbo back, last one that was installed didn’t fit the turbo initially and then had to be cut and welded because it was a serious interference fit with the front subframe and then hit the gas tank even with heat shields removed.

Quality control has gone to ****
 
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