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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!

I have been a LONGGGGGG time lurker, read hundreds of pages of all of yours work, and I have always wanted to input something, so here is my shot. Some context is that I come from the realm of redblocks, drove a far from mint 240 for a long while in high school



But after my first two years in college I knew that I would need something more practical (think in terms of power windows and air conditioning not usable storage space) that could also reliably carry me not only too and from my Co-op 60 miles a day but also between Minneapolis and Milwaukee whenever I return home. Enter my NA M56 V70, Rita. This is the day I drove it home, I got it with 99k miles on it, it now has just under 105k. Although the PO noted a mileage discrepancy where the carfax indicates it has ~140k, didn't really bother me because I knew I would replace every wear item within the year.



This is after a soft stage 0 (plug wires, cap & rotor, oil change with Rotella T6) and a TPS to solve a nasty misfiring issue. I then revamped the PCV, tossed on the upper engine rear torque mount that the PO included in the sale. I then got some AWESOME roof bars and a cargo topper, feat. my dad and I's shared winter wheels for break (I'm not home during majority of the winter)



Then I got the coveted rear wing, and color matched it with spray paint from a local NAPA. I continued to revamp the front brakes and suspension; new front pads, rotors and drivers side caliper, both control arms and a clapped out drivers side outer tie rod. I also commandeered my dad's old P2 T5 rims, bought cheapo firestone tires and proceded to autocross on them.






That brings it to this afternoon. I changed my oil with T6 again, there was a rather concerning lack of oil (only 4.5 quarts, although the filter was still full). I also put the hatch trim panel back on after I put the metal tabs to reinforce it. Although I am missing the plastic trim that shattered when I took the panel off originally.



Before


After




I'll end this first post off with a couple questions; I have a p0455 code that I believe is either the J Evap hose, the gas cap seal, or the purge valve. I've also been getting around 22.5 MPG which I think is low, will solving this CEL increase my mileage? Also the oil consumption issue; I'll pay closer attention to it this go around, but if it continues should I change oil weights? And finally, my hatch lock seams to bind up against the tailgate when the trim panel is on, has anyone encountered this issue? I can force it open with the key input on the tailgate but its kinda a PITA to do with my arms full of groceries!

I'm excited to become a part of these legendary forums, and any advice for a kid that has all of an adjustable wrench on campus is incredibly welcome!
 

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Welcome to the community!

As for the oil consumption - how many miles were on the oil by the time you had lost ~1.5qts? Keep an eye on it every few hundred miles to get a sense of the rate that's it's consuming/leaking oil
 

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1.5 quarts isn't a big deal if it's over 5000 miles (though obviously you'll want to monitor it and top up as needed). If it's over a shorter interval there might be issues. Resolving whatever's causing the P0455 probably won't make any difference to your gas mileage. 22.5MPG might be a little low depending on the ratio of city to highway driving you do but I wouldn't say that it's out of the ordinary for these cars, even the NA models. Welcome to the board!
 

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Welcome! Gotta love a '98 N/A M56. Im kind of in the same boat as you but now I'm trying to toss a turbo in mine! They're great cars, not super speedy but they definitely get the job done. How did it do in the autocross? I always wanted to do that with mine but I just never found the time. :( Definitely look into some ipd sway bars if you get the chance, they'll take away loads of body roll! Lowering springs are a bit harder to come by, but the install didn't take long as long as you have buddy with a impact wrench and a few jackstands. Interested to see what you do next!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm planning on checking the oil level when I fill up and getting a rough quart/hundred mile number to see how scary the oil consumption is. I also ordered a gas cap seal, being the easiest to fix, to see if that remedies my CEL. But as far as driving style goes I'm either driving a block at a time downtown or going 75 on my way to work, so I'll attribute that to the low mileage number if remedying the CEL doesn't increase my mileage!





As for autocross it was, without hesitation, the MOST FUN I have ever had behind the wheel. Everyone loved the "Race Wagon" and they were amazingly welcoming (The first person to come introduce themselves drove in his Viper ACR). I didn't finish last either! However, the car can most definitely be improved. It was understeer city and the body roll was a little insane, not as bad as the old 240, around a corner. I would really like to refresh the struts and add a rear sway bar but with the 17's I'm apprehensive about how it will affect the ride on the absolute garbage roads in Milwaukee.


Finally, I am now chasing a new suspension noise. When getting off throttle and engine breaking there is an intermittent rubbing noise. I'm thinking it is a sad wheel bearing because of the intermittent nature, and have softly ruled out the brakes also because of that same reason (my logic is if it were the brakes whatever was rubbing would have worn away by now). Besides a wheel bearing I can't think of anything that would make such an odd noise, any insight?
 

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Getting new struts and a rear sway bar won't make the ride quality any worse so I wouldn't worry about that. New struts would make it ride better of course, and the larger rear sway hasn't affected ride quality in my experience. It will however, make the car rotate a lot better!

I don't think the combination of intermittent and on decel would point to a wheel bearing. Wheel bearing ends up more or less constant and should be heard every rotation of the wheel, and be speed-dependent

How would you describe the rubbing noise? Metal-on-metal, clicking, clacking, grinding?
 

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"It was understeer city and the body roll was a little insane, not as bad as the old 240, around a corner."
Welcome to Volvos baked in from the factory safety feature. Good thing its fixable. To reduce understeer you want to firm up the rear end with stiffer springs, more rear sway bar and even add rear spacers to expand the track. Up front you want to lessen the toe (aim for 0.015 degrees each side its just a hair lighter than stock which will make the steering more responsive), add a little negative camber (-0.5 to -1.0 bit no more), solidify the chassis/steering (subframe bracing/bushing) and get a very grippy tire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How would you describe the rubbing noise? Metal-on-metal, clicking, clacking, grinding?
The best way I could describe it is what I imagine a loose wheel sounds like, or breaking with a warped rotor. Saying that makes me want to do a bolt check and go from there. But nothing metal on metal, and no clicking so that *knock on wood* rules out the CV Joints.

In terms of racing; I want to first replace the struts (I'm going to read up on factory paint codes for springs and see where that takes me in terms of lowering) because I'm never confident in the previous owners abilities to keep up on maintenance and the only way to raise my confidence is to spend money! After the refreshed struts I'd like to invest in a thicker rear sway, to battle the understeer, and then a strut bar, to help deal with the torque steer that I get despite being NA.

*Under*steering away from the race oriented improvements, before winter hits I really want a set of XC mudflaps, and while I'm at it I might as well get an eggcrate too! There's a great salvage yard that is owned by Volvo enthusiasts on the way to MN that I'll have to stop by next time I drive home.
 

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It's not torque steer. Just a sloppy front end. I can floor it in my t5 with my hands off the wheel and it goes strait.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I stand corrected! Would it be tie rod related? I'm sure if I replaced the inners they would be all sorts of floppy and clapped out.
Inners, outers, ball joints/control arm bushings (it's all one piece), subframe bushings. By age all of these cars are a mess front end wise unless it's all been done recently.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Inners, outers, ball joints/control arm bushings (it's all one piece), subframe bushings.
I've done both control arms and the drivers side outer tie rod. Next on my list are all the other tie rods, both endlinks, and now the subframe bushings (IIRC was it you Scottish that swears by Delrin bushings?). As well as the timing belt, and all other associated accessories, because the mileage discrepancy is always in the back of my head when I drive.
 

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I've done both control arms and the drivers side outer tie rod. Next on my list are all the other tie rods, both endlinks, and now the subframe bushings (IIRC was it you Scottish that swears by Delrin bushings?). As well as the timing belt, and all other associated accessories, because the mileage discrepancy is always in the back of my head when I drive.
Yup, delrin is chassis magic. Good call on the T belt, might as well do it all while you're in there (tensioner, idler, wp).
 

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Im running a 22mm rear sway bar, 21mm stock front bar, delrin, new LCAs, new delta link bushings, 15mm rear spacers, ipd rear springs w/ bilstein touring shocks an its a very composed and just the faintest oversteer capable setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So I changed the gas cap seal this past weekend



Cleared the codes and thought I remedied the CEL! But alas it popped back on when I left work on Monday so the J Hose and Purge Valve are officially on the list of repairs when I return home next. As for the mysterious noise up front, its still there and I'm still at a loss as to what it could be. I want to get that corner in the air and see if there's play at all in any of the suspension components and start digging around to see if I can get to the bottom of it!
 

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I went through the same thing chasing the cause of my CEL. Get under the back end and check the vacuum lines in the gas tank area. I had a cracked one there and replacing it cleared my code, haven't had the CEL in months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I went through the same thing chasing the cause of my CEL. Get under the back end and check the vacuum lines in the gas tank area. I had a cracked one there and replacing it cleared my code, haven't had the CEL in months.
I'm planning on inspecting back there this weekend, hopefully will find the issue. But I haven't had very much luck in finding any pictures of the actual hose/assembly. Is it rather obvious what I'll be looking for once I stick my head under the car?
 

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Yes, it will be right there kind of centrally under the spare tire well. You may have to peek around a bit but it will not be hard to spot. Let me know if you have trouble finding it and I can take a pic of it on my car for you. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·


I attended another autocross event last weekend, my third time out and I can safely say I've caught the bug. Nothing on any roads around me can even come close to compete, add in the possibility of a ticket (or jail time) and autocross is where I'll be sacrificing my tires from now on! A buddy who knows his way around cameras tagged along and got some rad shots throughout the event too. But there were a couple that got my attention;






This whole "heaving a station wagon around tight corners" look isn't my favorite so I am officially on the hunt for a rear sway bar. It's the best bang for buck option especially because my struts don't need help yet and that means an upgrade for them is far far away. But on the bright side I have a sizable box waiting for me when I get home labor day weekend. The timing belt, water pump, associated tensioners and idlers, evap system, and sway bar end links are getting serviced!! I can't wait to get the TB out of the way and put my nerves at ease. I will also be futher investigating that hanging wire you can see in the last 2 pictures. I couldn't find the end of it from the engine bay, but it doesn't seem to be an OEM wire, it's like IPD blue, which had me stumped.
 

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I attended another autocross event last weekend, my third time out and I can safely say I've caught the bug. Nothing on any roads around me can even come close to compete, add in the possibility of a ticket (or jail time) and autocross is where I'll be sacrificing my tires from now on! A buddy who knows his way around cameras tagged along and got some rad shots throughout the event too. But there were a couple that got my attention;






This whole "heaving a station wagon around tight corners" look isn't my favorite so I am officially on the hunt for a rear sway bar. It's the best bang for buck option especially because my struts don't need help yet and that means an upgrade for them is far far away. But on the bright side I have a sizable box waiting for me when I get home labor day weekend. The timing belt, water pump, associated tensioners and idlers, evap system, and sway bar end links are getting serviced!! I can't wait to get the TB out of the way and put my nerves at ease. I will also be futher investigating that hanging wire you can see in the last 2 pictures. I couldn't find the end of it from the engine bay, but it doesn't seem to be an OEM wire, it's like IPD blue, which had me stumped.
9191462

Volvo oem 21.8mm rear sway bar. Half the price of ipd and a 20 minutiae install instead of 2 hours.



 
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