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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As those of you who are familiar with my projects here on the board already realize, I'm a big believer of getting the best bang for the buck and not trying to fix what isn't already broken.

When I started my rebuild project, I did a lot of research on the subject, and was often disappointed with going through so many awesome rebuild and mod threads and videos to end up finding nothing about what all this actually did for the car, no dyno sheets, drag results or anything else that could really show you how the various mods involved resulted in real performance numbers.

For that reason I did my best to stick the the basics I knew worked, a strong, good breathing motor with an optimized tune. In the end I was rewarded with performance numbers that even surprised me since I would have been happy with just a little over 300 at the wheels but got so much more. Its also still something I could run on regular pump gas or haul a trailer with that didn't need to be topped up on meth on a regular basis too, lol.

But I'm still curious what tweaks might be out there for my upgraded motor so I'm always looking around the web and youtube to see what pops up. One thing I'm starting to realize from my research is that if you are going to be running 18-20 lbs of boost, there is not much reason to deviate from the K24 or the stock manifolds for extra power since the gains seem minimal.

For example, here is the most recent case that demonstrates that. Below is a video for a build with an upgraded turbo and manifold, not to mention just about every other tweak you could put on an R, and all that additional expensive hardware has put it ahead of my own numbers by about 10 HP.

I'm sure they are leaving a lot of potential for this set up on the table due to the low boost numbers, but this is what was put out there for their results.

Personally I could think of a lot of other nice things that someone could have bought with the money spent on all that aftermarket hardware, but you get my point.

This isn't all about big $$$ builds either, I have a lot of respect for what members like dougy have done just recycling old hardware and putting on the right snail and tune to take advantage of 25+ psi tunes. Still no crazy manifolds or turbos required resulting in a great bang for the buck.

I know we've had a thread here discussing what's the best tune out there, but since the hardware also matters I thought its best to discuss whether giant turbos, tubular manifolds and custom intake/airboxes and all the other mods people go after that don't appear to deliver that much additional power over what the stock configuration provides.

Also, the way catch can's are all the rage here nowadays you'd think they'd be worth some HP too, lol. :p

 

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I guess this asks an obvious question, do you have a single list of all of the mods you made to get that power? I am interested to compare with my car, but I don't want to run through 20 pages of your thread to do it.

My engine mod list:

K&N filter
Snaab Intake
IPD HD TCV
Rebuilt K24 w/CNC 11-blade compressor
Forge CBV
Phuzzy FMIC
NGK Iridium plugs
Aeromotive high-flow fuel pump
OBX 3" DP
High-flow 3" cat
3" oval-tube custom exhaust
IPD Stage 2 tune
Lightweight crank pulley
 

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I think I just need more $$$
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Though they are not adding to the power but there to support it, I now have forged internals, sleeves, inconel exhaust valves and a freshly rebuilt K24.

Power mods are the following:

Lightly ported head and manifolds
Mild blending work on the turbo scrolls
Custom FMIC with 22 x 7 x 3 bar and plate core
Snabb intake pipe
Forge compressor bypass valve
3" CAI directly from the foglight grill to the stock air box
3" catless downpipe
Mototec / EuroSport Sports Catback Exhaust
IPD/MTE Tune, 18-20 psi, 11.5 A/F ratio at all RPMs at wide open throttle.
 

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Though they are not adding to the power but there to support it, I now have forged internals, sleeves, inconel exhaust valves and a freshly rebuilt K24.

Power mods are the following:

Lightly ported head and manifolds
Mild blending work on the turbo scrolls
Custom FMIC with 22 x 7 x 3 bar and plate core
Snabb intake pipe
Forge compressor bypass valve
3" CAI directly from the foglight grill to the stock air box
3" catless downpipe
Mototec / EuroSport Sports Catback Exhaust
IPD/MTE Tune, 18-20 psi, 11.5 A/F ratio at all RPMs at wide open throttle.
To clarify, your K24 is running a stock cast compressor? And your tune...is it the standard IPD Stage 2 or did you have something special made up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Stock turbines and scrolls, I just ground a few bad flow transition areas and casting imperfections out of the scrolls. I had considered upgrading the compressor turbine, but after examining a CNC unit and doing some additional research I decided to go with the OEM compressor turbine instead.

And I think my tune would qualify as a stage 2, but at the time I just had to check off a list of mods, which was basically for the upgraded intake and exhaust mods I had planned at the time.

My particular set up was able to crack a couple of cylinders after almost 100K miles of running around modded, so it was pushing stock R block to its limits. One of many reasons I decided to fix that weak link once and for all as part of my rebuild. At about 20 psi this new set up should last me for a while.
 

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Thanks Stealthy for a great build thread and the persistency to make us share actual performance gains with specific mods.

I don't have a build thread, nor dyno numbers yet, but will soon. I bought the M66 SR (used with 116K miles) to go to the mountains in winter, the beach in the summer, and have fun at the track in between (of course not at a professional level). And also to work on / play with something as I did not have a car for over 10 years after I moved to NYC. I started with mods after taking the car to the track in refreshed but 100% stock condition. I had 5 more track days after that. These are my performance mods in somewhat chronological order, not including after market replacements like control arms, etc. I used this forum heavily for ideas and recommendations, and it helped a ton! When in doubt, Nicky from Highbloom in NJ was the place to go (he's a true Volvo 'god'). You'll see that I started with brakes, handling & suspension mods as that was lacking more at the track rather than power:

Brakes & suspension
- Ti brake shims -- had to put them as there's a lot of heat that needs to be taken care of when on track, and this really worked for me. Otherwise you'll need to cool down after only a few laps. BTW, I'm using Motul 600 RBF brake fluid.
- Ferodo DS2500 brake pads -- recommended by a member and performing amazing on track (and street). Great combo with the shims.
- IPD SS brake lines -- so far no problems at high temp so I guess they do what they should be doing.
- IPD track spec anti-sway bars -- helped with body roll, particularly in slow corners.
- Eibach pro springs -- I think they work pretty good with our 4C and performed good on track (although they make the ride significantly harder on street). Haven't tried KWs and would love to see / feel the difference.
- IPD adj. rear camber bushings -- did what they are supposed to. Too bad we can't adjust rear camber for on / off track use.
- IPD adj. rear toe rods -- helped w/ alignment but the right one snapped / broke while on track. IPD replaced them with the new ones and all is fine now.
- Front upper strut bar -- might sound funny, but this actually made a difference with responsiveness on the track. Hard to measure, but I think I feel it in slow corners.

Tires
- Michelin PSS -- great summer tire that performs exceptionally well on track. Lasted 3 (well, 2.5) track days (4 sessions per day with 15+ laps each).

Power mods
- Snabb big intercooler -- had to get something akin to a bolt on and this one certainly helps on the track with higher temps and with more power.
- IPD DP -- yes, its just a pipe but perfect 'no hassle' fit and high quality.
- IPD catback -- perfect fit and I really enjoy the sound. I'm not into obnoxious exhausts, but this was a must as I needed to 'hear' the car when on track. In addition to better flow, this is indeed another performance gain for me that might sound funny or borderline stupid. But not being able to hear the engine when stock made it really tough for me.
- IPD Stage 2 Tune -- I don't have the power numbers but had a 0.5 (wet day) on the track with it and over 3k miles now. Will post a dyno sheet when ready. I opted for it since I needed reliable tune for stock internals that can handle 20 laps on the track. Chris from IPD convinced me and the difference it made to the car is amazing. I go to a rather slow track in NJ (Raceway Park), and this makes a huge difference in acceleration (e.g., 40 to 90-100 mph) and increases predictability (knowing better when and how much power I have left). Can't back it up with numbers yet but 10% performance gain is a super conservative estimate.
- K&N filter -- since others mention it, just to say that I've had it close to 25K miles w/out MAF issues.
 

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- K&N filter -- since others mention it, just to say that I've had it close to 25K miles w/out MAF issues.
The trouble comes when you clean it. Add to the potential MAF damage, the K&N filters less and provides no measurable gains... your call though.
 

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Engine:
OBX down pipe
Snabb intake
Front mount I had laying around
Phenolic intake gasket
Forge cbv

Chassis/Braking
Ipd track VR sways
Ipd upper and lower torque mounts
BobVilla strut tower mod
Ipd stainless brake lines

To do:
Trans service
Pcv service
Timing belt service
Fix oil leak
Haldex service

Then I'll start looking at dynoing and tunes.
 

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Stock greens are about 450cc at 3bar relative pressure. Our cars use DECOS and max pressure is 4.2bar relative during high load. At that pressure greens are about 530cc.

Considering duty cycles and brake specific fuel consumption, one can calculate how much HP you can achieve (Engine HP) with a certain size injectors. It doesnt matter if turbo pushes more air or whatever (unless you like to run lean)

Different BSFC values:

Naturally Aspirated:
Gasoline – .45 to .50
E85 – .63 to .70
Methanol – .9 to 1.0

Boosted or forced induction:
Gasoline – .60 to .65
E85 – .84 to .91
Methanol – 1.80 to 2.0

First convert cc to lbs. Injector size in cc/10.5 = injector size in lbs
530cc/10.5 = 50.5lbs

Calculate maximum possible HP:

(Injector size in lbs x max duty cycle)/BSFC = HP per injector (cylinder)
Lets say duty is 90% at redline

(50.5 x 0.9)/0.6 = 75.75HP
Multiply by cylinder count 75 x 5 = 375HP at the crank is maximum for stock injectors and stock DECOS pressure. Thats inline with what the turbo can achieve.
Also people have years said drivetrain loss is 15, 20 or whatever percent?!
Reality is that its actually max 6-7%.
Stock K24 can pull max about 1050kg/h air. Convert to g/s and to calc estimated engine HP you get:
1050kg/h is 291.7g/s. Divide that by 0.8 and you get 365HP.
My car on dyno i got 355HP at wheels. (I have 2.3block)
There is your difference in drivetrain loss and how much power an amount of fuel and air will give.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Nice work contrast, I've done a few of these calculations as well. By pulling conservative numbers from the list, I had initially assumed I should max out somewhere a little north of 300 at the wheels, but instead ended up most of the way to 400. Makes me realize my VE is high and drivetrain friction is low, possibly in part due to the upgraded tranny lube.

One thing I could see immediately via the instrumentation after this latest round of upgrading my plumbing were the other advantages related to the increased air flow. Before with the same tune I would often see A/F ratios as low as 10.5 at WOT, but now with the better flows and lower back pressure the same tuning maps are putting me up around 11.5 which is a much better mix power wise but still safe for my particular setup.

All other things being equal, a 10% improvement in the A/F ratio will represent about the same improvement in BSFC.
 

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IF you were to start from scratch on a 100% stock car, what order would you have tackled each change?

A bang for the buck list is nice, but what order?
For example,,
First, the snaab intake pipe and homemade cold air intake,,
then? a downpipe...
then a FMIC?
 

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Can you re-edit with $$ per upgrade? I read the post title and assumes this was where the thread was to go.

Snabb intake - $270 with 6hp gain
FMIC - $550 with 11hp gain
Etc.
etc.
dot dot dot

Just commenting what I was expecting to see. Thoughts?
 

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I don't think anyone has accurate data stating what every single little mod adds hp wise...

From my electronic gismo- Galaxy S6
 
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