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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So some of you will remember when I posted asking how to pimp out my mom's ride. The car looked like this the day I got it:




She came packing with misfire codes, rough front seats, a blown speaker and some serious hygiene issues.

We've come a long way. Ignition system, timing belt, & air filters were tackled. I've deleted the SAS pump. Reconnected the radiator that had a missing main bolt, fixed the throttle cable. The new Stereo Head unit works a treat, along with dynamat treatment in the front doors and rear shelf. SE models came equipped with the same amp their R cousins were outfitted with, just no dolby. If you want to see all of it it's right here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...o-pimp-out-your-mom-s-old-ride&highlight=pimp

So this is where the fun begins. The T5's have always lived in the shadow of their R counterparts. No AWD, smaller turbos in some years, slower, lamer interiors/exteriors. So where do we start with getting on track to being a proper "R" rival? Firstly, She has to look the part on the inside:




The front seat skins were fully replaced, I miraculously found some SE covers and that was a bitch of a job. Theres about 50 hog rings on each seat that you have to remove in order, then in exact reverse order replace and tighten properly (I used zip ties). The new leather looks incredible. Here's a before and after of the driver's seat:




Here's how she sits right now:



Don't worry! The R bumper is on it's way. Currently it's silver, and the paint is in **** condition. My good buddy and I will be refinishing and painting that ourselves. Then will be new wheels, Volans or Comets, with appropriately new tires.

So here's what I would like from you fine people. I have a list of a few things that I wan't your opinion on:

Tires: Performance all seasons? I can drive my all seasons all year with no issues, even in the snow here because we get minimal snowfall. I put winters on when I have to travel over passes to other cities a few times in the wintertime, and I have winters that are nearly new. Would love recommendations for good all-around tires.

Intake: Stick with stock airbox? What pieces can I get that would both refresh and even improve performance in regards to the intake?

Exhaust: Would like it to sound better when pushed, like how the R exhaust seems to do it. Possible to retrofit an R exhaust, or better worth to go custom?

Suspension: Need to replace my spring seats and strut bearings, it seems. Should I only use OEM volvo? While at it, sway bar end links perhaps? I'm open to options on this, I know IPD HD gets recommended lots, but I do not want to stiffen my ride very much.

Motor Mounts: I get quite a bit of excess vibration, especially with a cold start. Top engine mount is due for replacement, lower right side motor mount I'd imagine is also due, and probably the tranny torque mount too. Now.... Which mounts do we buy here. I remember hearing that the Poly mounts transmit MORE engine vibration, especially with automatics. There are also very inexpensive offerings in terms of motor mounts, with a huge difference in price between the OEM spec and aftermarket. Is it unwise to purchase aftermarket in these cases?

For the tranny torque mount: Better to replace the whole assembly, or purchase the rubber bushings?

Onwards and upwards!
 

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I'd recommend performance all seasons. Michelins, Bridgestone or continental. Stick with the stock air box. You can modify the stock exhaust to be louder, go 3" even in steel. Use oem or oe manufacturer for the suspension parts. Ipd hd endlinks are wonderful, as are meyle HD. Since you have an automatic go with new oem/lemforder rubber mounts everywhere.


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Michelin pilot sport as3. Not the new as3+ they're not great, the last generation which is on sale at the moment. 95% of a pilot super sport but also good in the cold


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Your car is looking good!

I did a seat cover replacement on my '95 a few month ago and you're right, it is a job. Many years ago I had to replace the seatback adjustment cable on one of the cars so used zip ties. This time I bought a set of hog ring pliers and replacement hog rings. Still a hard job, but much easier than using zip ties.

Also recommend OEM mounts.
 

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Nice job on the seat skin replacement. Really makes a difference to the interior appearance. Also noticed that you fixed the "cover panel" that extends from under the steering wheel to under the light switch. That looks much better too.

IPD anti-sway bars and supporting links will improve handling and limit body roll (L-R).

It will be springs and shocks/struts that will stiffen the ride (bump impact, reaction time and feel).

Just as Wanye T5 suggests OEM, these cars do like OEM parts which speaks towards their design. A bonus, QC on parts seems to be consistently good. Yea!
 

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Your cosmetic work is great. I'd recommend next completing a full stage zero prior to looking at mods. T belt, Water pump, plugs cap and rotor as well as PVC if you haven't already done so. IMHO toss up on what to do next, mounts or suspension depending on degree of need. IPD sways, best bang for the buck regarding handling. I've actually found Moog End Links to be the same rod dia. as IPD's HDs with better welds at the ends and cheaper. Bad mounts can generate a lot of noise mistaken to be suspension. If your not messing with the turbo, catback will give you sound if that's what you are after, and given that there is no need to mess with the intake unless you just want to spend money. That's my two cents for now. Enjoy the journey!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Your cosmetic work is great. I'd recommend next completing a full stage zero prior to looking at mods. T belt, Water pump, plugs cap and rotor as well as PVC if you haven't already done so. IMHO toss up on what to do next, mounts or suspension depending on degree of need. IPD sways, best bang for the buck regarding handling. I've actually found Moog End Links to be the same rod dia. as IPD's HDs with better welds at the ends and cheaper. Bad mounts can generate a lot of noise mistaken to be suspension. If your not messing with the turbo, catback will give you sound if that's what you are after, and given that there is no need to mess with the intake unless you just want to spend money. That's my two cents for now. Enjoy the journey!
I've done T belt, Water pump and Ignition system. Only thing I haven't done for Stage 0 is PCV.... That's upcoming. Are you talking IPD sway bars? What's the rationale behind upgrading sway bars...... If I understand physics correctly, isn't it correct that independent suspension allows for the greatest grip? SO wouldn't a larger bar create a stiffer connection between the two front tires?
 

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The Pilot Sport AS3 is a fantastic tire and would be an excellent choice for any climate with cold weather, but keep in mind that every A/S tire is a compromise. If snow is not an issue for you, the AS3 might have more snow capability than you need as it is one of the better performance A/S tires in snow.

I would also add Pirelli to the mix as they have some excellent A/S performance tires that are a bit snow challenged.
 

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I've done T belt, Water pump and Ignition system. Only thing I haven't done for Stage 0 is PCV.... That's upcoming. Are you talking IPD sway bars? What's the rationale behind upgrading sway bars...... If I understand physics correctly, isn't it correct that independent suspension allows for the greatest grip? SO wouldn't a larger bar create a stiffer connection between the two front tires?
HD sways will reduce body role which equals more even weight distribution in turns which equals improved handling. Independence is not affected as you think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
HD sways will reduce body role which equals more even weight distribution in turns which equals improved handling. Independence is not affected as you think.
Interesting. So then what about compared to a strut bar? It seems that the sway bar has some play in it thanks to the end links having leverage, which would move under load. Whereas a strut bar is a solid connection up top. I notice lots of folks on here like the strut bar, what does it ACTUALLY do?
 

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Strut bar ties the top of the chassis together. Stomp on the gas without it and you'll notice the steering wheel fights you. That's torque steer. It's the frame flexing that causes that. When you tie the top together it stiffens the body and prevents torque steer. I personally think a T5 is borderline dangerous without a strut tower bar. It's the first thing my cars get and really helps them handle normally/be livable to drive beyond 50%


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Strut bar ties the top of the chassis together. Stomp on the gas without it and you'll notice the steering wheel fights you. That's torque steer. It's the frame flexing that causes that. When you tie the top together it stiffens the body and prevents torque steer. I personally think a T5 is borderline dangerous without a strut tower bar. It's the first thing my cars get and really helps them handle normally/be livable to drive beyond 50%

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Mostly correct, but torque steer is mostly a product of offset axle lengths related to the position of the transmission in a transverse engine configuration.
 

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Mostly correct, but torque steer is mostly a product of offset axle lengths related to the position of the transmission in a transverse engine configuration.
True, also the open differential really doesnt help either. You can drop $1200 on a quaife or $120 on a strut bar, less if youre clever and make one up yourself. I will say the IPD adjustable ones are very nice and do go on sale for an acceptable price occasionally.
 

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I didn't know these were open diffs on the front! Interesting.
Loose traction and youll have the classic one tire fire. On corners its always the inside wheel that starts to loose grip
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So I ordered replacement engine mounts today from Volvo...... TWO of them. And it cost me $300 CAD. :mad: Funny thing, even for how much cheaper they seem on IPD or FCP, when you tack on shipping and exchange, it was almost the same. Damn you Canadian import laws!!
 
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