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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I figure we could get a 3.2L thread going. I'll kick it off, but hope others can add to it. I've only had my 2011 for a year now, but I've read as much as I could in VIDA and elsewhere. A great debt of thanks goes to Swedespeed forum members who have helped me out over the past year.

If you've ever worked on the twin-turbo T6 engine in the XC90, and wanted something more practical that was easier to work on, the B6324S is the engine for you. It, combined with the 3.0L turbo, comprises Volvo's "Short Inline 6" (SI6) Engines. Supposedly, the block is a smidgen shorter than the 5-cyl. Supposedly. These are designed by Volvo and built by Ford's factory in Whales. It is also used in the Land Rover Freestyle/LR2. Everything on it is easy access, especially under the hood of the XC90. Coming from Volvos older tried and true "Red Blocks", I actually really love this engine. The first iteration of the B6324S had some design issues that were remedied for the 2011 model year's B6324S5 engine. This later version of the engine uses a bit less motor oil, has fewer special tool requirements, and was "optimized" to be a little more efficient.

The normally aspirated 3.2L engine is perfectly "adequate". It's no sports car. I've driven the 3.0L turbo version in an XC60, and that does go like a stabbed rat. That said, the drive train connected to the 3.2L is the same used with the V8 of the same model year, so this engine is well within the drivetrain's limits. I've yet to hear of transmission or bevel gear failures. Yet.

It's worth pointing out that the SI6 engines use a different filter cartridge than the previous generation of engines.

The good (relative to earlier XC90 inline petrol engines):

-"Life time" timing chain

-All the stuff that was difficult to do on the old series of engines (PCV?) is dead simple on the SI6 engines. Some stuff is even easier to do than on my old RWD Volvo's.

-A camshaft driven vacuum pump runs the brake booster instead of an electric pump.

-Oil filter is a cinch to access.

-All of the engine accessories are easy access as they are run off of the Rear Engine Accessory Drive (READ)


The bad:

150K mile service is a little ouchy: It involves changing the serpentine belt and all that it touches. INA makes a number of the parts, and they can be had relatively inexpensively from FCP Euro. it does require some special tools to remove the decoupler pulley. These tools can be found as generic decoupler pulley tools. I have these written down somewhere. I'm hoping to do a video/write-up on mine in the next few weeks. While at it, do the thermostat housing at the 150K mile service. This service is probably a budget breaker if you do not DIY.

A set of special tools is needed to manipulate the cams and crankshaft should pretty much *any* engine work be needed. This set of tools is available aftermarket on eBay for $250-ish.

The intake manifold is plastic. There are a number of seals both for the manifold-head junction, as well as for the actuators that modulate the runner lengths. The seals for the latter are NLA from Volvo, but can be had from Land Rover. I'll share these numbers ASAP.

The ugly:

Volvo put the two of the four cat converters in the exhaust manifold. Currently, they are wallet cripplingly expensive.

READ units prior to late 2010 model year have failure issues. The system is splash lubricated, and the bearings can be failure areas. Rebuilds are possible, but expensive (A machine ship really needs to do this work), and special tools are needed to get the READ unit out. Used units are available, and have been used, though VIDA claims that each READ unit is machined to be specific to each engine block. The newer "S5" engines (2011-on) have ball bearings instead of needle bearings in the READ unit. This bearing change seems to be a step in the right direction.

The A/C bracket on earlier B6324S engines needed special tools to realign if removed. This, too, was changed for the S5 version, and no special tools are needed.

There's definite hit or miss oil consumption with these engines. I've been fortunate with mine at 150K miles, though people with engines older and newer than mine have reported problems. I'm running 5W-30 Mobil 1.

Please feel free to correct me, and to add to what you know. There are some really excellent folks in this forum that have really helped me.

Thanks, all!

-Ryan
 

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Great write up! I especially like how you wrote about the engine itself versus relative comparison to different engine types.


2010 xc90 3.2 using Tapatalk
 

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Subbing for further discussion.

I have a 2009 3.2, so I assume I have the B6324S engine. Luckily, I do not have abnormal oil consumption and don't know what a READ bearing issue is (but am now worried), but thus far at 155K miles the only issue I have encountered was the PCV valve failure, which was a very simple fix. $110 part and 40 minutes of wrench time (20 minutes for someone who wasn't going extra slow and careful like I was).
 

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There's definite hit or miss oil consumption with these engines. I've been fortunate with mine at 150K miles, though people with engines older and newer than mine have reported problems. I'm running 5W-30 Mobil 1.
Yeah, mine has definitely been a "miss". I'm going to try Mobile 1 next. Interestingly, my oil consumption issues started during my first oil change using Castrol Edge Full Synthetic High Mileage oil. So much for good intentions... I think this happened around 125K miles. Prior to that I had never had to add oil between 7500 mile oil change intervals. Imagine my surprise when the oil level warning came on mid interval. I think I added a quart and was able to make it to the next oil change. I went back to the oil I had been using, but by the time the next oil change interval came up I was adding a quart every 1000 - 1500 miles. My last oil change I've been adding oil every 1000 miles. I keep track of the mileage, in case, but I've been able to wait for the warning to come on.

Next change I'm going to try Mobil 1...

Anyone think my woes were caused by the Castrol Edge Full Synthetic High Mileage oil?
 

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Anyone think my woes were caused by the Castrol Edge Full Synthetic High Mileage oil?
I think that's just a coincidence. I haven't followed your story but have you changed the PCV yet?
 

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I change the pvc myself last year, it was easy to do and was necessary as I didn't like the whistling noise it started to make.

I also had a nasty "delayed maintenance" problem that melted the idler pully that cost me about 1/4 of what I paid for the vehicle (to be fair, it did include a grin wheel bearing that was pretty much welded to the drive shaft apparently). Ahhhh, the sins of Previous Owners not doing their damn maintenance.

New winter Tires and New Big battery. The rear diff pump was replaced when I got it.

I've put some good money into her but she'll last me well into my next vehicle, which won't be for a while




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I realize now that most of my work is not on the 3.2 engine in my XC90. It has been a bulletproof 6cyl with good oil changes and maintenance. From my experience, here is what I suggest for the 3.2 engine, regardless of year.
http://australiancar.reviews/Volvo_SI6_Engine.php - Engine info


Serpentine Belt Service (plus water pump & thermostat)

I've done all the 3.2 maintenance myself and I suggest not to wait until 150k miles to do the serpentine belt service. I suggest to do it closer to 100k miles. This should include the belt, pulleys, tensioner, water pump (kit), and water pump coupling (could break upon removal). At ~90k miles, I could already hear pulley bearing wear noise. You can start with the first link and work through the following pages for a guide on the process. I would add to do the thermostat at the same time as the water pump. I did not use any special tools. The thermostat is electronically controlled and accessible under the intake manifold. I was able to change it without removing the intake using a long extension and a flex joint. Lastly, on the drive belt itself, use a good brand, such as Volvo or Contitech. I have used Goodyear or another brand in other European cars and they are not the right size.
https://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/...ump/component_information/service_and_repair/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65nnaYmKXqE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19X3g5w1CbY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGWGCPNaxpY&t=77s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLK8LsB_sq4&t=18s - Thermostat
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A...ds=bit+wrench&qid=1559794759&s=gateway&sr=8-3 - Tool I used to gain access to the water pump coupling (might also need torx bit set)

Oil Selection
I've done tons of research and shared my work/experience on other posts. I suggest Mobil 1 0W-40 for its cold weather flow, high temp protection, and amount of zinc. The zinc can help prevent wear associated with 3.2 oil consumption. Also, use a good oil filter such as Mann, Mahle, or Volvo. I like to keep a 5,000-5,500 mile oil change interval instead of 7,500. Oil is cheap compared to engine work due to oil consumption caused by premature wear. I don't like conventional oil for this modern engine because conv. oil with use can get too thick on cold temp start-ups. Too thick of an oil on cold temp start-up might bypass the oil filter because of the high oil pressure as well as take longer to reach the vital engine parts. A bad combination. Lastly, do not overfill the engine as the oil may go through the PCV.
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?593467-Oil-is-sooooo-confusing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYkg0oDUXs8 - This is why you should use a synthetic, even if you have an old engine that previously used conventional

Alternator
This is a part that could fail, but it is not difficult to change. It is also known because the bolt for the drive gear (decoupler) can come loose. Here are videos to help guide changing it. If you have to change the alternator or have access, remove the decoupler bolt and add blue Loctite to prevent it from backing out. New intake manifold seals should be used and the Victor Reinz ones are affordable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8M4scO_ogw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXgKvT3PoNc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2x9cufzCXmo

Engine Mounts
Do them around 100k miles. Depending on driver history and driving style, you can go longer or shorter. All XC90 engine variants will need engine mounts. The 3.2 does not have the same type of upper torque mount style as the 2.5 or V8, but has one on the passenger side. Replace the front, rear, upper passenger side, lower passenger side, and the transmission torque mount under the driver's front side.

PCV
Many many newer engines use an internal diaphragm for the PCV or crankcase ventilation. This part on top of the engine can cause a whine or vacuum sound and may cause an oil consumption or running issue. I also suggest a scheduled replacement around 100k miles. It is not if but when the diaphragm rubber will break (same in many other new engines across different makes). Get either Volvo or OE FoMoCo brand. All the same, but the Volvo brand could be cheaper at times. Easy to change.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBPGg2cKTWo&t=129s

Spark Plugs
I like to use original Volvo ones, but people (and I) have used Bosch. I think Denso is used for the later S5 engine. I don't trust other brands as far as it running smoothly in the engine. Change around 50k miles because the 3.2 likes to rev on downshifts. That extra use in upper rpms can increase spark plug wear.

Ignition Coils
These should last a long time. The 3.2 does not suffer from the same coil pack issues seen in the 2.5t. You can wait until one goes and then replace all 6 so there is a more equal spark between cylinders. Also, change all six because if one goes, the others might not be too far behind. If you want to change them on a scheduled timeframe, then 150k miles is a good mileage based on normal wear on the coils/boots (people do see them last past 200k miles, some have not). If your 3.2 has over 150k miles and you are planning a road trip across the country with kids, do the coils. These can stop your drive and might take days to source parts (depending on your location), worse if it's a weekend.

Brake Vacuum Pump
The seal for the vacuum pump can leak oil. The remedy is an affordable kit. Not difficult to do and easy to check for the oil leaking. It can go at 60k miles or at 120k miles, not really mileage specific. Fix if leaking.
https://vimeo.com/149012099
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01ljbu1WRdo

Fuel Pressure Sensor
This part is shared across engines and models for Volvo and is a known failure sensor indicated by a trouble code. Buy Bosch. There is less room to remove the holding screw than in a 2.5t. I used the same bit ratchet used for the water pump coupling and a flathead screwdriver wrapped in a towel to give very little side force to keep the ratchet straight (between the ratchet and valve cover hump). Another option is to purchase an "L" shaped torx set. It is vital to use the correct size torx so you don't strip the screw. Should be a tight fit and you can test the fit on a new screw (p/n 986201).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3x58F_kxdZY
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A...ds=bit+wrench&qid=1559794759&s=gateway&sr=8-3 - Tool I used
https://www.amazon.com/Wrench-Screw...=L+shape+torx&qid=1559794992&s=gateway&sr=8-5 - Can't vouch for this tool set, but this style may also fit.

R.E.A.D
You do not want this problem, but if you hear metallic bearing noise, then you may have a READ issue, but I haven't really heard of people having an issue recently. Personally, I think good oil can help with this area. Here is info on what it takes to fix it.
https://www.scottsautomotivemd.com/volvo-rear-end-accessory-drive/

Technical Bulletin (TJ)
This is if there is an oil consumption issue. Many still do not have it, including mine. It is helpful in what to look for, such as with the spark plugs.
http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/Volvo_Technical-Journal-24643_I6-oil-consumption_201204.pdf
 

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Nice Chitown! This is sticky material!!!!!


2010 xc90 3.2 using Tapatalk
 

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I think that's just a coincidence.
As do I. Aggravating, though...
I haven't followed your story but have you changed the PCV yet?
Yes, it was done as part of the 150K service, which, by the way, was not outrageously expensive, IMHO: less than $3K including struts on all 4 corners.
 

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If you are living in a cold zone I would avoid the Fram ultra oil filter XG10415. It may collapse. Mine did.
 

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Nice Chitown! This is sticky material!!!!!


2010 xc90 3.2 using Tapatalk
He might as well just go ahead and start his own Volvo XC maintenance and troubleshooting blog. The guy is a wealth of knowledge and information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks to all for adding to the thread! This has been informative!

Alternator:

Has anyone found a need to swap out the voltage regulator on the 180A alternator? They're ~$100 and come with new brushes. Looks like an easy swap.

Otherwise, it doesn't seem to make much sense to replace the decoupler pulley or rubber coupler preventatively. Rebuilt alternators come withe the pulley. That said a failed decoupler pulley here has the tendency to unscrew the dive pulley on the READ unit. Which is not a path I want to go down!

hanks!

-Ryan
 

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Excellent summary of what needs looking after on the 3.2

Consider adding to your list the items shown below

The highest priority would be the the thermostat, because they fail after about 10 years (and the failed thermostat may result in failed coil packs)

For the XC90 you should have room to replace the thermostat without removing the intake manifold


Link showing what needs to be done for the LR2 and S80 http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html




High Mileage Maintenance items for 3.2
2. Brake fluid flushed (every 3 years)
3. Coolant replaced every 5 years (failure is oil or ATF heat exchanger internal leaks)
4. AWD Rear differential oil change (every 50,000 miles) – I added a magnetic drain plug (LR2 and S80 V8 seem to be more susceptible to pinion bearing failure due to lack of maintenance)
5. ATF fluid flushed - search for Gibbons method (note: I used the modified Gibbons method)
6. Power steering fluid and reservoir replaced due to noisy heavy steering
8. AWD BOT Gear oil for power Transfer unit (for mine I drilled a drain hole)
11. AWD Haldex fluid and filter - I used genuine Volvo parts for this (it was cheaper than Land Rover)


Typical repairs for high mileage 3.2
A) Thermostat – replaced mine at 10 years (also replaced two coolant hoses)
G) Radiator Fan
I) Anti-Drain back valve in oil canister housing failure


Link with the complete list
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32504.html

Take care

Paul
 

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The highest priority would be the the thermostat, because they fail after about 10 years (and the failed thermostat may result in failed coil packs)

For the XC90 you should have room to replace the thermostat without removing the intake manifold

I just read your post more carefully and both of you recommended changing the Thermostat


Take care

Paul
 

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Adding more 3.2 specific items. With the long 3.2 engine run, there are 2 variants of the Aisin 6spd transmission that mates up. They can last with good fluid changes. For maintenance, the fluid should be changed initially around 75-80k miles (depending on your driving style and city/hwy mix) and around 20-40k miles thereafter, depending on your driving style and how long you want to keep the transmission running well. Change it sooner if you do a lot of city driving or to simply keep it in tip-top shape. The 3.2 changes gears a lot to get to its power band as needed, so my recommended change intervals may be different than in a V8 or 2.5t which have lower rpm torque. JWS 3324 fluid used in the Gen 2 may be a synthetic blend oil and possible it can last an extra 10k miles in my suggested change intervals compared to JWS 3309 (but don't take my word for it). The MSDS says it is made from mineral oil and has a mixture for its base stock https://www.wpdusa.com/media/rWM3StYqM0KZIMpWqELD6Q2/download/MSDS-English-AISIN-AFT-0WS.jpg.

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...-in-owner-s-manual-JWS-3309-vs-AW-1-(JWS-3324) - Here is some discussion on the forum about fluids

TF-80SC Model year -10 Generation 1
Fluid is JWS 3309
1L p/n 1161 540
4L p/n 1161 640

TF-80SC Model year 11- Generation 2 (From Chassis 568001- & Up (last6 Digits of VIN) according to FCP)
Fluid is JWS 3324
1L p/n 31256774
4L p/n 31256775

Updated parts in Gen. 2 from VIDA:
Tapered bearings - To reduce the inner friction losses, some of the tapered bearings now have bigger diameter and shorter length of bearing rollers. This change gives fewer rollers and thus less friction.
Torque converter - To reduce noise/sound when locking at lower engine rpms, the LTD (Long Travel Damper) has been provided with an inner circle of damping springs
TCM (Transmission Control Module) - TCM has the same hardware as before but the software has been changed.
Solenoids - Faster shifting has been achieved by making all linear solenoids that control the clutch systems more effective. This change has been achieved by removing the hydraulic part of the solenoids. Further, the magnetic flow in the solenoid has been increased and gap between thrust piston and magnetic coil has been reduced to increase power.
Seal rings - New seal rings with smaller sealing surface contributes to reducing the inner friction. By tapering the seal, the sealing surface is reduced as is the pressure on the sealing surface.
Friction pads - The new friction pads on the discs reduce the impact of drag losses between the friction pads. This has been achieved by optimizing the oil flow channels between the friction surfaces.


I personally use the Mobil 3309 ATF fluid with good results in my 2008. This is a tried and tested fluid by many many Volvo owners. Others have used Toyota brand Type T-IV, Aisin, and Idemitsu (TLS). Hopefully, someone else can chime in on their experience with the JWS 3324 (Type WS) variants of fluid in their 2011+ 3.2. I also like to do the oil cooler line method using 12qts of fluid. I bought the hose that goes into the radiator from Home Depot. Forgot the size hose, but it has a thicker wall so I heat the end with a heat gun first so it is pliable enough to stuff into the (dried) radiator hole. After it cools, it stays in place until it's time to yank it out.

Tip: The fill plug can be a bear to remove. Use good a good quality Torx socket and double check the correct torx size is tight in the plug so it does not strip. (Ex. sometimes a T50 can seem to fit when it should be T55.) One way to help prevent over tightening is to use a new o-ring seal (p/n 30735186) each time you unscrew the fill plug.

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...-fluid-flush&p=2249639&viewfull=1#post2249639 - Excellent write-up for the transmission fluid change.
http://www.timthurber.com/volvo-xc90-3-2-transmission-flush-drainfill-tf-80sc-6-speed/ - Another great write-up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAb9p8Wph-M - The drain and refill method
 

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He might as well just go ahead and start his own Volvo XC maintenance and troubleshooting blog. The guy is a wealth of knowledge and information.
Thanks! I thought about doing a blog, but the pictures and formatting involved take too much time. Others have done a great job of taking pics and videos. I just fill in where I can. This is a good 3.2 summary thread and hopefully these posts help you guys.
 

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Thanks! I thought about doing a blog, but the pictures and formatting involved take too much time. Others have done a great job of taking pics and videos. I just fill in where I can. This is a good 3.2 summary thread and hopefully these posts help you guys.
Sticky! Sticky!


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