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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, was driving home from work tonight, outside temperature was 13 degrees according to the dash. Every time I turned the heat on, the temp gauge dropped, visibly and quickly. Turn the heat off, temp gauge went up. I did it a couple times to be sure.

When I got home, parked and got out, there was a whining sound coming from the engine. It stopped before I could pop the hood and find the source. Any one got any ideas?


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Is there any coolant left in the overflow tank? Sounds like it was too low and sucked air.

Could just be that its really friggin cold out. My Lotus used to do the same thing. The heater core would actually cool the engine too much LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, I did have a post not too long ago about my car leaking fluid during these freezing temps, but I was pretty sure it was just washer fluid. I'll check coolant levels in the morning when it's brighter.


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What is it dropping from? Center? Or are you overheating? Do you have an obd2 to read the actual temp? Could be the thermostat is failing and stuck wide open. I don't know what would cause the heater to have such an impact on the engine temp like that. Maybe someone else has seen this before. It's been 15 degrees here and my engine doesn't drop below operating temp with the heat on.

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Same. 15F here and the car takes about 6 minutes of driving to warm up to dead center on the temp gauge and stays there.

Maybe you have a small leak in a line. Check out the entire cooling system and check the two heater hoses that go in through the firewall. Mine were leaking and had to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Since its been cold, and even before that, my car never really hits dead center. Most of the time the needle is just slightly below midline, and in this cold weather snap we are having, it usually takes my car 10-15 minutes just to get within 1 hash mark of center.


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Thermostat. Gauge should read dead center.
Does the temp rise a bit when idling & then drop on the highway? Sure sign you have a bad thermostat.
 

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Thermostat. Gauge should read dead center.
Does the temp rise a bit when idling & then drop on the highway? Sure sign you have a bad thermostat.
Agreed. You need a lot of temperature change to get the needle to move. My OBDii reports swings from 198 to 220 depending on load and the dash doesn't show a thing! Start with the Tstat. They are cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cool. Thanks guys. I checked coolant this morning, and while it was blue (similar to the fluid I found leaking) it is at max level. Haven't noticed it move during highway driving, but mine definitely very rarely sits dead center. This morning it did not move around as much, nor did the engine make the whining noise when parked, but it did move down slightly even though I didn't turn the heat on higher than 66


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Again, could be air in the system if you hear wining after its shut off. Thats a bad sign...... head gasket. If its whistleing while running that is an unrelated issue with the PCV.
 

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Sounds to me like your thermostat is stuck wide open.

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This - cheapest solution first and usually the first one to fail.
 

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Does it take a long time to warm up and/or for you to feel warm air from the vents? Even when it's 20F outside, I get a little warm air from the vents within a minute on the T5 and within a couple of minutes it's fine. Temp gauge might take 3-5 minutes to fully "center" even though we know these aren't linear gauges.

You should have seen how long it took our (modern enough, with nothing wrong) Jetta diesel to warm up when the heater was on in the winter :D
 

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The OE thermostat fails open. So, its probably on its way out. It seems these cars dont get enough air flow when stopped causing a spike in temps. The tstat is a common failure item because of the somewhat high cycle fatigue. If you do a lot of stop and go thats probably it.
 

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The OE thermostat fails open. So, its probably on its way out. It seems these cars dont get enough air flow when stopped causing a spike in temps. The tstat is a common failure item because of the somewhat high cycle fatigue. If you do a lot of stop and go thats probably it.
 

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Had the same thing happen to me, first dealer changed just the thermostat (openend stat housing and replaced). Checked the old stat and it worked fine.
Then as the new stat did not do the trick, they changed the stat including the housing.
Still didn`t work so they just gave up and all of a sudden told me it to be normal with a 10 mile drive for the car to heat up to mid needle position.
At idle and with the heater on full blast you could virtually see the gage drop to 1/4 range within minutes.. never got fixed.

I believed the car to be running pig rich thus never creating enough cylinder heat.. What is your MPG? Mine was aweful at the time, 16-18mpg. Also that they tried telling me was normal. ohh the big engine and turbo uses a lot of fuel. I called BS to their face as I had the car for many years not even close to using as much..

Basically my MPG halved, the one and only dealer servicing it over 6 years suddenly telling me the MPG drop was normal just put me off volvo`s and their EXTREMELY crappy service for good. I service the 850 R myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I never turn on the heat till the car reaches mid line, unless I know I'm driving the car for awhile. Haven't heard the whine since Monday. My MPG have gone down, but I also haven't don't as much highway driving, pretty much all city, and I know the cold temps do cause a drop in MPG. If it goes down drastically I'll know the engine thinks it's too cold, causing it to run rich.


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
As for dealers, yea, I take what they tell me with a grain of salt. Last check up told me my front rotors were warped, though I felt no vibrations or anything. Also said I had a torn CV, but I have no noise or anything coming from the front end. I said "thanks for the heads up, and left."


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As for dealers, yea, I take what they tell me with a grain of salt. Last check up told me my front rotors were warped, though I felt no vibrations or anything. Also said I had a torn CV, but I have no noise or anything coming from the front end. I said "thanks for the heads up, and left."


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You may wany to fix that CB boot before you end up needing an axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I took a look under the car. The boot isn't torn. There is some grease on the surrounding parts, but the boot itself is in tact. The dealer also says Volvo does sell just the boots. They said they'd have to replace the axle which is why I said thanks and left.


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