[Tate2999]

Alrighty, well I am just about finished with my dash pad repair. Thought I would just post my process (which is farrrrr from perfect) but should do the job

I had several cracks along the rear insert pony that goes directly under the windshield, as well as other structural cracks that wind up towards the front of the dash towards the driver. I took the edges of each side of the cracks and roughed them up a bit for adhesion, then cleaned them with alcohol. Then, I pasted my adhesive (in this case, I used a JB plastic weld that seemed to have decent flexibility). I applied a health amount to each side, and then placed them together. I then used a series of clamps to hold the cracks together, and then used a second layer of adhesive over the cracks, which I reinforced slightly with cut up paper clips:

I let this seal and set over night, and when I pick up the pad now, it actually stays somewhat rigid, with just a bit of flex which is preferable.

By far, the hardest part was getting the portion towards the driver right. The spot a lot of people see lifting above their two central air vents is what I’m talking about. For that section, there wasn’t much to be done, other than slab some adhesive on and clamp it to the plastic beneath it. Mine is absolutely not perfect, however I would say it is 70-80% better than it was before

Again, YMMV, but I feel as if this was a decent improvement for under 10 bucks. Just have lots of patience, lots of glue, and lots of clamps.

Next, I will be buying some good leather paint, and will go over the top of the dash and get a good color locked down, then I need to see what kind of “clear coat” or protectant should go over it to seal it down.

 

[gofra]

Thank you for posting this!

Regarding that raised spot above the two central air vents - think maybe you could warm this up and then squeeze it together between two battens and leave it like that for some time?
What seems to be the issue here in the first place? Is it just the structure of the material that makes it bend in such way?

I'v got the same issue - it's not hugely prominent but I'd like to solve it one day.

 

[ZZZZZZZ]

Nice work. I wonder if it could be reinforced with some flat aluminum pieces like this and glued in place as you've done:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-0-0625-ft-x-0-5-in-Aluminum-Solid/3053633

Alrighty, well I am just about finished with my dash pad repair. Thought I would just post my process (which is farrrrr from perfect) but should do the job

I had several cracks along the rear insert pony that goes directly under the windshield, as well as other structural cracks that wind up towards the front of the dash towards the driver. I took the edges of each side of the cracks and roughed them up a bit for adhesion, then cleaned them with alcohol. Then, I pasted my adhesive (in this case, I used a JB plastic weld that seemed to have decent flexibility). I applied a health amount to each side, and then placed them together. I then used a series of clamps to hold the cracks together, and then used a second layer of adhesive over the cracks, which I reinforced slightly with cut up paper clips:
View attachment 185577
I let this seal and set over night, and when I pick up the pad now, it actually stays somewhat rigid, with just a bit of flex which is preferable.

By far, the hardest part was getting the portion towards the driver right. The spot a lot of people see lifting above their two central air vents is what I’m talking about. For that section, there wasn’t much to be done, other than slab some adhesive on and clamp it to the plastic beneath it. Mine is absolutely not perfect, however I would say it is 70-80% better than it was before
View attachment 185579
Again, YMMV, but I feel as if this was a decent improvement for under 10 bucks. Just have lots of patience, lots of glue, and lots of clamps.

Next, I will be buying some good leather paint, and will go over the top of the dash and get a good color locked down, then I need to see what kind of “clear coat” or protectant should go over it to seal it down.

 

[JaredR]

I would use fiberglass instead of metal

 

[Tate2999]

Nice work. I wonder if it could be reinforced with some flat aluminum pieces like this and glued in place as you've done:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-0-0625-ft-x-0-5-in-Aluminum-Solid/3053633

The metal would be tough, because it would make it really heavy, so fitment could be compromised against the AC piping, as well as it could seriously just crack the plastics any time you removed the dash. As Jared said, perhaps fiberglass would work better

 

[Tate2999]

Thank you for posting this!

Regarding that raised spot above the two central air vents - think maybe you could warm this up and then squeeze it together between two battens and leave it like that for some time?
What seems to be the issue here in the first place? Is it just the structure of the material that makes it bend in such way?

I'v got the same issue - it's not hugely prominent but I'd like to solve it one day.

I’m going to put an illustration here to try to explain what was wrong with mine

Essentially, the foam curves down and mates to the lip. This illustration is flipped upside down because I was repairing the dash pad so I needed it facing me.The lip on that portion for mine has completely cracked, and as such I couldn’t actually pull it up and seal it back in one piece, because it needs two forces to put it back into place: being pulled upward AND getting pulled inward. I tried holding it in place with my fingers and having my wife apply the glue, but my hands cramped up and I couldn’t hold it still enough to get a good seal. There was still a small piece of the lip closest to the risen piece between the lip and the dash, so instead I just pulled really hard on the foam to pull it up close to the risen piece, and glued it to the small piece of intact lip left, as well as parts of the risen piece where I could. Again, nowhere near perfect, but it is much better.

I would advise being careful with the amount of glue you use, as I know it can get cold in Slovenia, and if you use too much glue your heater may introduce some less than desirable smells by heating up your glue

 

[Chuck W]

Next, I will be buying some good leather paint, and will go over the top of the dash and get a good color locked down, then I need to see what kind of “clear coat” or protectant should go over it to seal it down.

No need for any "leather paint" or clearcoat. Just use some SEM or Duplicolor vinyl/plastic dye. I've dyed a few dash pads and have have no issues with fading/peeling.
(This dashpad was originally tan, as was the previous one that was in the car)

 

[Tate2999]

Hoping to work on the car tomorrow, painting the dash with the tip above, as well as I’m going to throw on my H&R spacers (with extended bolts) and see how I like the fitment. Also hoping to piece together all my suspension components to drop out my sh!!ty Chinese struts and put in my OEM stuff. Looking forward to seeing the difference

 

[Tate2999]

Just received some great news tonight, I landed my dream job, starting April 1st!! Had to fight through 9 rounds of interviews to snag it, so I’m celebrating by buying this Tamiya 855 BTCC RC body for my blooming hobby!

I hope everyone had a great weekend and that you take this next week head on 👍

 

[mattj456]

Congrats!

 

[UT OLI]

Congrats as well ! will you still be working with Garret part time ?

 

[Tate2999]

Congrats as well ! will you still be working with Garret part time ?

When I can I pop in to help, even now it’s become more rare, I haven’t been there 2 weeks just because of my college schedule. I also just help on weekends with their personal projects, just because I’ve built a relationship with them now that we’re all good friends

 

[Tate2999]

No need for any "leather paint" or clearcoat. Just use some SEM or Duplicolor vinyl/plastic dye. I've dyed a few dash pads and have have no issues with fading/peeling.
(This dashpad was originally tan, as was the previous one that was in the car)

Do you happen to know what color you used for the dash?

 

[Chuck W]

My dash pad is black, but I'd have to go look up what the grey color was I've used before.

 

[Tate2999]

Finally smoke tested the car, I have a MASSIVE leak from the PCV hose that runs back to the intake house, as well as from one of the hoses near the flame trap. Ordering all the parts now.

Also bent my wiper arms back into form and have a complete wiping stroke, so nice to have that back, especially in this insane winter we’re having.

I spoke with the exhaust shop our shop uses, I think I’m going to be putting a big ol resonator on the exhaust to see if I can delete the drone, and if I’m not happy with it after that, I’ll put a hefty muffler as well. Anyone have any resonators they’ve been happy with?

Lastly, are there any solid aftermarket intercoolers that people like for their P80’s? DO88 quality seems to have taken a steep dive recently

 

[V50_M66]

Finally smoke tested the car, I have a MASSIVE leak from the PCV hose that runs back to the intake house, as well as from one of the hoses near the flame trap. Ordering all the parts now.

Also bent my wiper arms back into form and have a complete wiping stroke, so nice to have that back, especially in this insane winter we’re having.

I spoke with the exhaust shop our shop uses, I think I’m going to be putting a big ol resonator on the exhaust to see if I can delete the drone, and if I’m not happy with it after that, I’ll put a hefty muffler as well. Anyone have any resonators they’ve been happy with?

Lastly, are there any solid aftermarket intercoolers that people like for their P80’s? DO88 quality seems to have taken a steep dive recently

Do88 intercoolers, from what I've read (no personal experience, so take that as you will) are still good. It's the radiators (made for Do88 by a different company) that seem to be problem-prone. I put all Do88 silicone hoses in my V70 and they are just as great as they have been.

 

[JaredR]

I would use a Do88 IC. I'm also trying out some of their hoses on the next 850R I'm building as genuine Volvo is NLA. It seems likely that some of their hoses will be in my personal cars in the future.

 

[Tate2999]

Anyone know where I can find all the part numbers for the 850 PCV kit? Dealer doesn’t have a kit anymore, have to order individually 🙄

 

[mattj456]

FCP's kit has all the PNs so you can pick and choose what you need Volvo PCV Breather System Kit 850T100

 

[Tate2999]

FCP's kit has all the PNs so you can pick and choose what you need Volvo PCV Breather System Kit 850T100

Perfect, thank you