[ScottishBrick]

Brake upgrade coming soon! Jared and Will were kind enough to cut me a deal on some calipers, brackets, and brake lines! I just opened them today, they are in need of some revitalization but are a fantastic starting point. Thanks again @JaredR And @ScottishBrick at Whiteblock Company.

May go get them remanned again, just to have them stage 0. Today, I began by cleaning the brackets in some solvent, then brake clean, then I sandblasted them. Here is a pic of what they looked like before and after
View attachment 147672
deciding on what color I want to paint everything, I’m leaking towards a nice silver, but my boss thinks I should do black so they don’t look as dirty. What do you guys think?

Silver has my vote.

Be glad you don’t live in New England, those were new two years ago. Albeit uncoated.

 

[ScottishBrick]

I was using mopar atf +4 because full synthetic good old basic atf. Was also $2.09 a quart.

 

[ScottishBrick]

I spy bilstein front struts. They’ll raise the front height of the car even on lowering springs

 

[ScottishBrick]

Sachs fronts bilstein B4/touring rear.

 

[ScottishBrick]

The guy I bought my black 850R from did the floor, door panels and trunk with DynaMat.

I did my old pewter with dynamat tailgate to front seats. Made a major difference. Highly recommend. Just don’t cover the top of the fuel pump hatch!

 

[ScottishBrick]

Well you could reskin the cluster?

Dynaudio makes these cars amazing....

 

[ScottishBrick]

Another thing I’m thinking of doing, once I’ve done a lot of other more important things, is ordering a Euro style wheel from VIVA, and getting it really nicely wrapped and everything, to make a really complete interior. Their steering wheels look fantastic

Could also get it strait from the source for $200 less?

 

[ScottishBrick]

Really?? Who’s the source? Like wrapped and everything?

Royal Steeringwheels in the UK. Ship em a vote they send you back whatever you want

 

[ScottishBrick]

Amazing. What do you mean ship them a vote?? Also, how would one go about acquiring the airbag for it?

Core.

 

[ScottishBrick]

if I were to go with an aftermarket exhaust, what options are the best to look at? I think I said this before, but I have an IPD exhaust I could pick up for 400 bucks, but I just think they’re so too loud.

Simons sport or touring. Sport is a little louder (one large center muffler) while touring is a bit more tame with two mufflers. Both excellent choices and very well made/fitting systems. Only recommendation would be an appropriate square stainless tip and replacing U clamps with band clamps.

 

[ScottishBrick]

Subframe bushings:
How hard is it to drill out the subframe bushings without dropping the whole subframe? I’m not opposed to dropping the subframe but it may be nice to not have to.

Easy. Beginner in car method of suggestion would be to cut the rubber out, collapse the collar by driving a screwdriver up the edge. Don’t drill on the edge and damage the subframe.

However if you aren’t afraid of dropping the subframe, bushings pop out with 2-3 hammer hits, this also makes access far easier for replacing the hydraulic motor mounts.

New subframe bolts should be installed when putting it back together. If mounting a C70 center brace, also need new, longer rear bolts.

 

[ScottishBrick]

Replace every single rubber hose. Coolant, boost, vacuum. They’re long overdue and you can chase failures piecewise or just one and done it and then drive the car with peace/ease of mind.

 

[ScottishBrick]

yep this is why we are doing engine-out services on everything now

Yup. As much as I wasn’t thrilled to volunteer for doing it in car, refraining my fleets S70 thoroughly was worth the trouble, two hoses were on the imminent edge of failure and two had already gone previously.

 

[ScottishBrick]

Different, as in M4.4 vs M4.3? I think we're using a different PN than the one listed above, but they are working just fine with our M4.4 ECUs.

Yes.

 

[ScottishBrick]

Well I’m thinking about possibly doing the Robert DIY method and not pulling them at all, I was thinking about completely draining the entire coolant system and getting fresh fluid in it.

another new problem I found, whoever the idiot was that did the tie rods rebooted them wrong, they stretched the boot way too far and clamped it, so of course it has slipped anda lot of the grease escaped. Will be rebooting, don’t want water getting into my steering rack.

Just commit to a full cooling system hose overhaul. You’ll be in major overlapping territory doing the heater core lines with the main radiator hose and lower turbo line. Only need to drain coolant once that way. The rest are easy

 

[ScottishBrick]

Best part is, he’s not moving until October, so I will be stripping it down at his house, taking what I need, selling what I don’t, and then I can call a scrap yard to take the shell away from his house. So I don’t have to have it at my house and I don’t have to store it at the shop. I won’t scrap the shell if someone wants it though.
I’ll also be selling my tan interior, or I can throw it in with the shell if they buyer would want it.

Don’t shred it down. The 850R vin attached to a shell alone is worth $2500. Might just want to take the performance goodies and send the rest off to Europe

 

[ScottishBrick]

Just did a vin check, it’s an 850 turbo shell. Was interior swapped

Carry on then!

 

[ScottishBrick]

My interior swap is nearing completion, but holy crap I cannot get the rear seat backs out. The clip part that you push in on the bottom will not budge, I can’t get it to go in so that I can slide the top part up. Any tips or tricks from people that have struggled with this?

Has a secondary lock. Probably caught it. Basically need two screw drivers. Push it all the way down, looking in from the bottom, push the second lock tab flush then pry up.

Start with the longer section of seat it’s designed to come out first.

 

[ScottishBrick]

I’ve liked the Kinugawa TD04 offering, they have a good warranty and I’ve heard a lot of good things about them

JUNK! You want a genuine Mitsubishi or Melett core. And genuine Volvo housing/wastegate actuator/cbv.

 

[ScottishBrick]

Loud and clear! Will keep looking around. In the meantime, I will try to pull the CBV off without taking the full turbo out to see if I can spot a tear. Probably will be pretty tricky, might need my gf’s little hands.

On another note, I have ordered the firewall coupling and coolant hoses, so I will be doing my heater core and those things this weekend. Finally.

I noticed that my parking brake light on the dash has stopped coming on when I park and pull it up, but when I turn the car off and back on, the light is on. Will need to see if something happened to the sensor when I was swapping middle consoles.

Unlikely it’s your CBV. More likely you’re hearing induction noises.