[JaredR]

Glad to see someone picked this up.

This "built" turbo sounds sketchy. There is a lot of junk out there.

Definitely get a wing. Also, carpets were revised mid-99 and don't turn pink after that. If you see clean carpets from a late P80 that aren't pink, I'd recommend taking all of them.

Platinum edition estates came with Nivomats. The rear is probably low because they aren't doing their job any more. The springs alone are not enough to support the car at its proper ride height.

A set of random $180 all seasons isn't the rubber this car needs.
The stock wheels are also a problem because you can't fit 302mm brakes under them. Sticky tires, 302s, and better headlights are required for a safe turbo P80 experience. I crashed once due to poor light and brake performance and almost crashed two more times due to unacceptable tires. Learn from the mistakes of those who came before so you don't have to make them yourself, especially with a car this clean.

And you need a genuine Volvo timing belt kit asap.

If you want to use this as a GT car I would not manual swap.

 

[JaredR]

Thanks Jared! Yes I will be doing a timing belt, it actually has a pretty good timing belt on it right now, but I will absolutely be doing one.
The $180 set is certainly not my long term set up, the tires that it came on were completely rotted though, so I wanted some decent ones ASAP. They’re solid, they will do me fine until I buy volans. I am planning on getting some nice summer tires on the Volans, some Michelin sports or something. As for the suspension, I was planning on going Bilstein kits from IPD all the way around, is that advisable? Full kits, new hardware, bump stops, etc.
The first upgrade I will do will definitely be the 302’s, sounds like they make quite a difference. Are those available on IPD? Or should I try to source them from will at WBC?

"Pretty good" would scare me lol. And at such low miles it might all be old unless you have records otherwise. Either way, anything that isn't genuine Volvo in the timing system is a time bomb.

I don't recommend using the kits. They usually come with a ton of stuff you don't need. Also don't recommend Bilstein struts since there have been issues with the spring perches being in the wrong places. I run H&R springs with Sachs up front and Bilstein Touring in the rear. I also don't recommend using IPD. FCP with the warranty makes way more sense on anything except genuine Volvo parts you aren't planning on replacing soon enough for the warranty to matter, at which point whatever dealer you can get the best prices from is the best move. 95% of the new cars I buy come from FCP or the dealer.

I have a set of 302 brackets in stock here at the TWC Boston warehouse.

 

[JaredR]

For what it’s worth, I’m running Bilstein touring and H&R on all 4 corners and it’s great, no issues with the ride height on the front. Sachs are indeed a great option too.

H&R springs would be a good choice if you don’t plan to keep the nivomat setup

Huh, I wonder if they fixed it. Now I need to go surf your thread and see what your stance is looking like...

Someone already deleted the Nivos so either $$$$ for Nivos, $$ for H&R, or $ for Lesjofors 9140099HD (what I recommend in all non Nivomat cars that aren't being lowered).

 

[JaredR]

I read somewhere that it may have been fixed in 2019, I purchased in 2020. Initially thought I was running into the ride height issue when I was still on stock springs but I think it just ended up being worn out rear springs. Imo it looks correct on the H&Rs

I should really just take measurements and compare. I have Sachs on my ‘97.

That does look about right. Maybe time to give them another shot...

Also why do neither of us have decent pics of the stances of our cars lol

 

[JaredR]

H&R will ride and handle better. Lesjofors 9140099HD are a better choice if you need to carry load.

Or, go H&R and have Lesjofors 9140099HD on hand for when you need to carry heavy load. Swapping rear springs only takes about 20 minutes. Here is my 850R towing our boat with H&R up front and Lesjofors 9140099HD in the rear, which I swapped in specifically for the occasion. The first picture I put up I still had Sachs up front and by this picture I had Öhlins all around. This was, by far, the best setup we've ever had for towing.

The brake lines are longer for 302s and your existing ones are almost certainly original, so it would be a great time to refresh that. I use Zimmerman rotors, UN-drilled and UN-slotted. Holes in the brake rotors are a stress riser and I've seen them crack there. I use Volvo/ATE and Hawk HPS pads in my fleet. I also tried EBC yellow and found them grippy but took them back out while I was chasing another problem that turned out to be unrelated to the pads. I would like to try them again but my initial impression from the week I ran them was that they make significantly more dust than the Volvo/ATE or Hawk pads. Stay far away from ceramic pads. Ceramic pads, even with 302s, were not adequate for stopping my dad's NA!

Also, measure your rear sway bar.

I would 100% recommend Delrin subframe bushings. HOWEVER, I would hold off on doing them until after you decide if you want to manual swap. If you manual swap, you should drop the engine/trans out the bottom on the subframe, and then you can refresh EVERYTHING without the car in the way. See: my mom's S70 and my dad's T5. Engine-out service is the way to go. Figure out what direction you want to go, gather parts, and do it all in one shot. The engine-out service takes about 3 days, which seems like a lot of time until you realize that it gives you the opportunity to get the car to a place where you won't have to do anything but oil changes and belts for the next 10-15 years. You'll spend far less time, money, and aggravation in the long run doing it that way.

 

[JaredR]

About to make my first Haul of purchases! Here is what is on them and what my prices are. Please tell me if you think any of these prices are off.

Disclaimer: I am not using any cheap parts, I will specify the brand If I can remember them. And again, because I'm at a Volvo certified independent shop, I get discount prices at the dealership as well as our parts distributors.

Timing Belt: Volvo, 209.46
Water Pump: Volvo, 156.53, Bosch I think was the other brand, at 76.85?
Starter: 176.51, Bosch I think??
Sunroof seal: Volvo, 146.32
Spark plugs: NGK, 8.37 each
Wire Set: Can't remember, 76.57
Cap and Rotor: Can't remember, 28.81 for Rotor, 33.43 Cap
Fuel Filter: Bosch I think, 29.75
Motor Mounts: (Volvo dealership quoted me 134.37 each for front and back)
a.) Front: 62.67
b.) Back: 107.41
c.) Right: 20.90
Rear Bump stops: Can't remember, 26.99 each
Fuel Pump: Volvo, 213.21
Delrin Subframe Bushings: $170

I also want to do a transmission flush, does anyone have any recommendations for what fluid they like to use?

After this list is done, I will be attacking the 302mm brake upgrade, as well getting new springs and shocks.

After that, I will do a complete interior swap with an 850R.

Hopefully that is the full kit with tensioner/idler/etc for $209? Belt itself is like $50....
You can use a Aisin water pump. It's the same thing. You need bolts too.
What's wrong with the starter?
Use the Volvo spark plug set...from FCP...and never pay for plugs again
Mahle fuel filter is OE and like $10 cheaper than Bosch
Corteco and Hutchinson engine mounts are OE for front and rear (can't remember which is which). Starboard engine mount there is no aftermarket available and $20 does not seem like the right price. More like $100.
DW200 and DW300 fuel pump drops in to certain versions of the stock carrier and would be a good future proofing option if you were to turn up the power in the future.

H&R it is! I will continue to look at all my options though, as I probably won't tackle that for a bit.

Brakelines are must, I will go with some. new ones, probably some braided steel ones, I think they're worth it.

A manual swap will only be done once the auto is on it's way out, so I think I may still do the delrins while I drop the subframe to do the engine mounts.

My plan for rotors is ATE, I definitely won't be going with drilled or slotted, I feel that those are really only for track cars, something I will never subject this car to.

You will be waiting another 350k miles or so for the automatic to fail so that takes care of that. Go ahead and do the Delrin subframe bushings . And, if you are doing all that to the engine and dropping the subframe, just take the engine out of the car. Cam seals and rear main seal at the same time.

If you are going to drop the subframe, you should replace the subframe bolts; they are torque to yield.

Also assess the condition of the PCV system. These cars don't like to be driven gently. The cars that are driven hardest last the best. Go ahead and floor it, once you have all the maintenance up to date.

Additionally, some more notes on my 850 experience so far:

1.) The steering wheel is humongous. It feels like I'm driving a bus sometimes. It's not a complaint, just an observation.
2.) the brakes and brake pads are fine, but man the stock brakes are pretty poor. The brake upgrade will be welcomed.
3.) The gas mileage is a bit worse than I expected. I never floor it, I actually drive like the old woman that owned it before me. I have driven 80 miles on this tank, about 60 of them highway, and I'm at around 17 mpg.

The DOT market steering wheel sucks. You want to upgrade to one from a late 9 series. That wheel was stock in ECE market cars.
The stock brakes do suck.
You might have a boost leak. Or incorrect plugs. Or a vacuum leak. Or any other number of deferred maintenance/incorrect parts/etc. My T-5R gets upper 20s on the highway. Tank average is usually 25-27 mpg.

 

[JaredR]

The automatic cars don't really have a "flywheel" per se.

We don't have any 960 wheels at the moment, but we try to get them every chance we have.

 

[JaredR]

Extended crank, nothing will happen I can hear its not engaging. Then I put it into neutral, roll it back a bit, then start it and it can get going that way

If you need a flex plate you definitely should do this an an engine-out service..........

Seriously looks so much better. I don’t know how but it looks so much more European

Because it IS!

 

[JaredR]

I don't think I would be able to live with 17-27mpg here in the UK. Our premium fuel has just went up to over $10 a gallon thanks to the greedy money grabbing tory government
According to the OBC I managed to get over 37mpg on a motorway run last summer in the 850
View attachment 146921

Imperial gallons
That would be 31 mpg here. I sometimes get over 30 in my T-5R when I drive though the part of the country that enforces the speed limit and have to slow down. Just doesn't happen with the speeds people drive at around here. My S60 and my dad's NA will both give 32-33 mpg at 65-70 mph.

 

[JaredR]

Ahhhh ok gotcha. That makes sense. Utah drivers are the worst drivers I’ve ever been around, all speeding and running red lights and cutting people off, so staying 70 on the highway is hard when everyone else is going 80. Another investment I’ll be making is a front and rear dashcam.

well it sounds like I definitely have a boost or vacuum leak of sorts. I hear a loud whooshing or sucking noise when I get on it, that I don’t think is induction noise? I can’t imagine there’s much induction noise with a stock air box and filter. I hear the noise mostly through my air vent closest to the drivers door…

80 lol....that's cute...

 

[JaredR]

Definitely not cute when they’re absolute rust buckets shaking around and wheels wobbling booking it at 100 mph on the inside lane. There’s no safety checks here, only emissions, there are sooooo many cars here that shouldn’t be on the road. Car parts flying off on the middle of the highway, completely bald tires, windshields so cracked you can see them breathe when the defroster turns on. I’m absolutely putting a clear bra on this thing, I don’t want paint chips

Massachusetts has safety and emissions but anything over 15 is emissions exempt. As government regulations go, I like it a lot. We are the safest state in the country to drive in, and everyone drives as fast as they want on the highway. Seems to be working well.

 

[JaredR]

If the original lights are in good condition keep them, they look much better IMO

View attachment 147099

Agreed. 97s have a revised plastic that doesn't sunburn. That's what I'm running on both of my 850s.

Question for everyone, what is the more worthwhile aftermarket modification: A FMIC or a RIP kit? I’m sure it’s best to both at the same time but I don’t know if I’m gonna do that. Of course, none of this will be happening until everything is stage 0’d (suspension included) and all interior and exterior things are taken care of.

Neither. Drop in IC is the way. To me the pre-recall style IC piping is more about cleaning up the engine bay than performance. By the way, it was recalled for a reason. I had my T-5R out a couple times this winter when temps were around 10°F and the throttle was noticeably sticky until the engine warmed up. Not recommended if you plan on driving in the winter.

 

[JaredR]

I'm startin' to pick up what you're layin' down!
I changed mine out for the clear ones because.... if you got an 850 that's what you do. but I'm starting to like the stock look.

That was cool 15 years ago when go fast bros were driving these cars. The collector market disagrees with that.

 

[JaredR]

Very good to know, does it just ice the throttle or something? And as for drop in intercooler options, what’s out there? does do88 have anything like that?

Yes I have a Do88 ic in my 850R.

And yeah there's condensation that freezes up in the throttle or something.

 

[JaredR]

I also paint my calipers silver

 

[JaredR]

also checking in from team drain and fill

 

[JaredR]

Uh wow, epic score.

You're going to want to sell those springs though. Those are sedan springs.

 

[JaredR]

Thank you!! I’m pretty happy about it. Bummer, I don’t know the difference, how can you tell? He was using these on his 850 wagon

Well he bought the wrong springs then. 29955 is black, 29958, as pictured here, is obviously blue.

The springs are different because estates are like 100lb heavier in the rear. Ride height differs significantly when improper springs are used.

 

[JaredR]

I strongly recommend staying as close to plug and play with factory as possible with the audio. Also there are 8 speakers, not 6, in the stock system.

My system is built out of all Volvo components with the exception of the front door speakers. I only had to add two patch harnesses to wire it all in. It blows any other car audio I've ever heard out of the water and is every bit as good as the Dynaudio speakers in my home listening space. Let's keep our expectations relative to what's good, not what we think would have been good in a car 27 years ago. I might soon be visiting a friend who has a B&W V60 in which case we will certainly compare and report back.

Wow that is fantastic! I will be studying your thread thoroughly then, your set up sounds amazing. I think I have my eyes on a good subwoofer, something that will mix in with the rest of the car hopefully. I will be on the hunt for parts!

My interior doesn't have much squeaking going on. Start by getting everything reattached to the car and then maybe add some sound deadening.

Yes the stock exhaust on these is really loud for what it is. I like it. Went back to stock on my T-5R for the first time since I've had the car and I absolutely love it.

 

[JaredR]

I wouldn't recommend a ipd exhaust