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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tools:
Towel/paper towel/saran wrap and rubber band. (see step 1)
Flathead screwdriver/sockets for removing hose clamps
10mm socket
Spark plug socket
Ratchet for sockets
6-8" ratchet extension
Torque wrench (22 ft*lb)
Torx 27
5 spark plugs (duh) I used IKH22 Denso Iridium
anti-seize grease

1. Disconnect intake tube (over rear of engine) from hose that goes down behind engine so you can rotate the tube up (loosen hose clamp near MAF, may be different w/o K&N intake). Cover ends of intake tubes with towel/paper towel/saran wrap and a rubber band so you don't drop anything in them.

2. Remove plastic engine cover (2 pieces) - Torx 27

3. Prep spark plugs by putting a bit of anti-seize on the threads. It's easier to do them all at once than as you need a plug.



4. 10mm socket - remove plug coil pack bolt. Pull coil pack up, may take a bit of force and wiggling.





5. Using ratchet/torque wrench with extension and spark plug socket, remove old spark plug and replace with new. Torque to 30 n*m (22 ft*lb).



6. Reinstall coil pack and bolt it down

7. Reinstall cover, intake, check all hose/tube connections.

I found it convenient to use a combination of a standard-sized 3/8" ratchet and my 3/8" torque wrench when I wanted to either get a bunch of turns in quick (ratchet) or break the old plug out or torque it in (torque wrench). I put the 10mm socket on yet another ratchet (1/4" drive) with a 2-3" extension for the coil pack bolts.
 

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Nice! Thanks for this...sticky perhaps?

What's the recommended mileage for replacement on a stock engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I PM'd Tom about stickying this. I know there's already a write-up in the sticky, but I looked at it and it seemed to have a lot of discussion in it, not a strict "write-up."
I forget the recommended plug change interval, but it was in a booklet that came in my car.
 

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Re: (mattdoc)

Looks good.

I'll add a suggestion that after removing the plastic cover (exposing the coil packs), you clean the top of the head carefully with compressed air and/or a shop vac before removing the coil packs. Quite a bit of debris can collect in there, and it can end up in the cylinders easily when the coils and plugs are out.

The anti-seize is a good idea, to prevent the plug from sticking in the threads later. But, don't go nuts (the amount you used is good), and don't overtorque! The material serves as a lubricant, affecting torque readings.

Tom.
 

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Re: T5 Spark Plug Change Write-Up (mattdoc)

Anyone want to provide a similar write-up for the 2.4i? The job is the same, but getting to the plugs requires removing a manifold, and exposing different stuff. Pictures would be important.

Tom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't know if 2.4i engines use the same plugs as T5s, but they were 7.25 a piece from partsgeek.com. I also got an activated carbon cabin air filter from there for 26. Shipping was 7.
 

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Re: (mattdoc)

Good write up!

Jason, make sure to take lots of pics for us other 2.4i guys!

At how many miles should be check / change our spark plugs???
 

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Re: (s40boy)

Quote, originally posted by s40boy »
Good write up!

Jason, make sure to take lots of pics for us other 2.4i guys!

At how many miles should be check / change our spark plugs???

I figure 50 or 60k. ill probably do it at the 52.5 service

Bought the plugs from the dealer, $41 for 5. pregapped OEM. They are different for the 2.4i also.
 

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Re: (sanatarium)

Sana, I was counting on your 2.4i spark plug write-up but it seems from another thread your only at 37K and you're not doing that until 52.5k? Just wondering, I might have to tackle this myself.

BTW I ordered the OEM plugs for $25 at parts.com. I'm also counting on them being pre-gapped, but how would you check using the dial when the volvo plugs have the three "prongs". I guess I'll just have to go with it.

Modified by KDog at 5:36 PM 4-30-2009
 

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Re: (KDog)

Nope, the three-pronged plugs aren't adjustable.

Do they use those on the 2.4i? You might want to confirm you got the right ones.

Tom.
 

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Re: (tmtalpey)

I don't see why the three-pronged plugs wouldn't be the right ones. I used part # 30650843 OEM Volvo/Denso. That is what is also listed on IPD as non-turbo.
 

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Re: (KDog)

Quote, originally posted by KDog »
I used part # 30650843 OEM Volvo/Denso. That is what is also listed on IPD as non-turbo.
Great, thanks for the part number.

Tom.
 

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Right before I sold my S40 T5 AWD the dealer did a 30K service but I did a number of things myself so I limited what they could charge me for. I guess as a way to get back some money they "decided" to change my spark plugs at 30K instead of at the 60K service. I got my car back and drove home and it had no pep...I was a bit baffled. I then looked over the service receipt and figured out that the tech had installed the spark plug kit for an NA!

Definitely a good thing to have this write-up so people can do spark plugs themselves.
 

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With a lot more spark plugs claiming to have better and better heat to their spark, does anyone have any good experience with non-OEM plugs?

Also, anyone have experience with aftermarket ignition coils?

Thanks,
Dustin

('99 T5)
 

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Re: (Techanic)

I bough iridium spark plugs and to be quite honest, I can't say I felt a difference over stock. They were the nicest ones at Pepboys, and I think they were only like $6.99 each. Changed them at 45K miles.
 
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