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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I realize that this has been discussed quite frequently, however, I am looking at a 02 v70 t5auto at Stadel Volvo in Lancaster. Super clean car, 58k,t-belt service just done. I have driven volvos for 20 years, however they have consisted of 240,940 and 740's.
Question is, should I stay away due to the problematic transmission? My dd is a 945 with 180k, would like to get something with more than 1 airbag, drove my friends t5 and found it to be quite fun to drive.
Appreciate any responses.
 

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I wouldnt let it sway me! If the car has solid service records, and is clean... then the transmission is a crap shoot! If the deal is right, go for it. With that low of miles too, try to factor in a comprehensive extended warrany as part of the deal. Would probably be pretty cheap.
 

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It is wise to get an extended warranty. It has paid itself many times over with my car as it has the transmission repairs done under warranty when the valve body giving way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replys, they are giving a 30 day/1000 mi warranty, I called to ask if I could extend,they said no. All recalls for that year have been taken care of. And as I said the t-belt service was just done as well as a cleaning/service of the throttle body. The turbo oil line seals were replaced at 33k. The car is really clean, I just have that worry of the transmission. Although it is a 02, according to it's carfax it was manufactured on 11/14/2001. If a new valve body was installed would that possible extend the lif of the transmission?
 

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01 and 02 valve bodies are the same
The usual issue with an 02 is it's fine when cold but rears any issues after driving it 30 minutes to an hour.
If you drive it a long time for the first couple of days, get it nice and hot, you should know.
If it's OK now, as was said then it's a crapshoot, but if it IS good, change the fluid and you may be just fine.
(Do drain and fills, no flushing)
 

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01 and 02 valve bodies are the same
The usual issue with an 02 is it's fine when cold but rears any issues after driving it 30 minutes to an hour.
If you drive it a long time for the first couple of days, get it nice and hot, you should know.
If it's OK now, as was said then it's a crapshoot, but if it IS good, change the fluid and you may be just fine.
(Do drain and fills, no flushing)

Yep, I totally agree. It is a crap shoot but this is GOOD advice to tilt the table in your favor.

good luck,

P
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the responses, drove the car tonight, shifted beautifully and drove beautifully, unfortunately it was raining rather hard so I had to drive conservatively. My additional question; is the car priced reasonably in the 10.5 range? Tires and brakes are all new and the interior/exterior is in excellent shape. I am pretty sure I can work a transmission flluid fill/drain into the deal. Additionally it has the 3rd seat in back which I have no desire/use for, do people want to purchase them, can they be removed?
 

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Doesnt seem unreasonable to me. But, I am not in the market.

Was gonna mention earlier, but this is worth noting for the future:

http://www.levelten.com/VOLVO_VALVE_BODY_FIX_p/vol-ja210-3000sn.htm

I just had this done with my 04 xc70. So far, it has been the best money ever spent! And, this is not simply an OE swap, it is their proprietary upgraded components. They are very familiar with the failures of AW regarding the design flaws.

Good luck with the new car.
 

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Thanks Jim, what would the intervals of the drain/fills be and how many would I want to do?
I now do them all at once and am done with it.
Do one, then either run it on the lift for 10 minutes and do another, or if we're on the ground, drop it, drive it for a few minutes and do again.

3 times usually does the job or the fluid is clean.
You will almost use a whole case of fluid, 3-1/2+ quarts or so come out each time.

My additional question; is the car priced reasonably in the 10.5 range?

HIGH, BUT STADEL IS HIGH

I am pretty sure I can work a transmission flluid fill/drain into the deal.

INSIST ON A FULL FLUSH, ANY NEEDED SOFTWARE, RESET ADAPTIONS AND HAVE THEM DO A DRIVE CYCLE.
THAT IS WHAT YOU WANT TO INSIST ON, WORD FOR WORD


Additionally it has the 3rd seat in back which I have no desire/use for, do people want to purchase them, can they be removed?

YES AND YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET AT LEAST $400 FOR IT (COMPLETE) BUT YOU WILL NEED TO FIND A CAR TO SWAP PANELS WITH
*******
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks again for the assistance. I took my wife to drive the car today and noticed two things, when making a hard turn in the parking lot the front tires rubbed. The other thing that I noticed was when at a dead stop and going forward there is a pulse that you can feel, this also occurs when at a stop and going into reverse, it is ever so light but it is there. The salesman then tested this in the lot and felt it, then went out with another employee and said they would check it out in the morning. Any thoughts on what that pulse is?
 

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Possible transmission, but it could be plethora of other things
If it has 17s (235/45/17) the tires WILL rub at close to lock
Can be cured with 5 mm spacers
 

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JRL says in post #5 to this thread: "(Do drain and fills, no flushing)".

But then, in post #10, it appears that JRL says: "INSIST ON A FULL FLUSH, ANY NEEDED SOFTWARE, RESET ADAPTIONS AND HAVE THEM DO A DRIVE CYCLE. THAT IS WHAT YOU WANT TO INSIST ON, WORD FOR WORD" (Not sure if he is quoting someone else there.)

Not to jump down anyone's throat over a minor contradiction when they are helping, but as a new 2001 v70 owner, I'd like to know if the repeated drain-and-fill approach is better, or the expensive "flush" with the fancy equipment is better.

I was going to spring for the IPD kit, but I'm still looking for clues.
 

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Drain and fill is what you switch to when a trans flush is deemed too risky due to trans age/mileage or length of time since the last trans flush. If your over 100K and have no proof of trans service (remember, these ATs are listed as "lifetime" in the print materials) then I would err on the side of caution.
 

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JRL says in post #5 to this thread: "(Do drain and fills, no flushing)".

But then, in post #10, it appears that JRL says: "INSIST ON A FULL FLUSH, ANY NEEDED SOFTWARE, RESET ADAPTIONS AND HAVE THEM DO A DRIVE CYCLE. THAT IS WHAT YOU WANT TO INSIST ON, WORD FOR WORD" (Not sure if he is quoting someone else there.)

Not to jump down anyone's throat over a minor contradiction when they are helping, but as a new 2001 v70 owner, I'd like to know if the repeated drain-and-fill approach is better, or the expensive "flush" with the fancy equipment is better.

I was going to spring for the IPD kit, but I'm still looking for clues.
Look carefully, that is Frogman's qoute from what I said somewhere, (doesn't seem to here now does it)?
 
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