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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm about to change the oil in my 2001 T5; I got the filter and the drain plug gasket from the dealer and was about to crawl under the car to figure out where they were, when I noticed another thread that mentioned the older turbos needed their turbo oil lines to be drained.<P>Uh-oh. Am I getting into trouble here?<P>I'm normally a shop-manual fiend. When I get a new car I get the shop manuals. Trouble is, a full set for the S60 runs about $1500 or so (same for my wife's S80) so I haven't bought them yet.<P>Hmm, should I just change the oil in the S80 with the filters I bought (no turbo) and take the S60 in to the dealer, or is the oil change a simple affair in the S60? The oil change (first service) is $160 (WAY too steep, tho we did it for my wife's car. Getting both serviced at the dealer is not going to be economical.)<P>I was planning on putting in Mobil 1 to be sure it got put in. Sure, I can ask at the dealer, but would they really put it in even though they charged me for it?<P>I'm stumped. There ought to be a Volvo shop manual that shows how to take care of the easy stuff--the $1500 for the 6 manuals is a crock.<P>Thoughts are welcome. Thanks.
 

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I am not sure about the turbo needing drained either. As far as dealer servicing goes, I simply ask for the express oil change which runs about $40 or so. I do maintenance on my own schedule since I do not drive a lot of miles and don;t want oil in the crank more than 4 months. As far as the Mobil 1, buy it yourself and ask the dealer to use your oil. I just did that for my S40 since the dealer stocks 10W30 and I wanted to run 5W30 for the winter.
 

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<P>Not that this will help you too much, but to clarify my earlier post, there were two hoses to the turbo that needed to be drained each time the oil was changed; however, it was something that I could do, and used to do myself, but only after a Volvo mechanic pointed it out to me. It was on a 900 series turbo. The hoses were accessed from under the car. Perhaps your volvo mechanic can answer whether the S60 T5 is in need of the same, and if so, tell you where they are. Also, i've read in other posts that it's best to switch to synthetic oil after 7,500 miles or so, but not before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wow, that was one of the <I>EASIEST</I> oil changes I've ever done. Just drop the lower engine cover, spin the oil filter off by hand, spin on a new one, drain the sump, replace drain plug, replace engine cover, load with oil, write note in service manual, done.<P>I'm curious, though, does anyone know what the torque spec is for the drain plug? I don't want to over-tighten it & strip the aluminum threads in the sump, yet it needs to be tight enough so it doesn't back out.<P>Also, does Volvo sell an oil filter wrench? For the same reason, I want to be sure I put the 18.5 ft-lb torque on it so it's not too tight or too loose.<P>Thanks!<P>There were some rigid tubes leading to the turbo from the engine, so I just left those alone. They seemed like they didn't want to be disturbed. Better to mix a little old oil with the new than screw up the turbo lube system, was my thought.
 

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Re: (T5 Dave)

Just did my first oil change on wife's 01 T5. Everything is fairly easy as advertised although the oil filter casing were torqued fairly tight and definitely not possible do it by hand (last oil change was the 45k service at the dealer). The 3/8 inch drive handle didn't seem to give enough leverage so I used the 1/2 drive handle. There also doesn't appear to be much room for a strap wrench (lots of parts blocking the needed leverage from the horizontal handle)<p>Anyways, I got the IPD oil filter wrench and it works great. Added Amsoil synthetic and the engine seems more powerful or maybe it is just my imagination. But if it does a difference in engine power, then shouldn't it be in all cars? Plan to try it on my Honda Accord on the next change interval.<p>Didn't drain the Turbo either. Does anyone know if this needs to be done? Does the dealer service drain it? 1 quart of old oil out of 7 is about 15%.
 

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Re: (Howardc)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Howardc</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Didn't drain the Turbo either. Does anyone know if this needs to be done? Does the dealer service drain it? 1 quart of old oil out of 7 is about 15%.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>You do not need to bother with it. If you change the oil often and/or use a quality synthetic oil, you adn your engine will be just fine!<p>Yannis
 

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Re: (GrecianVolvo)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>GrecianVolvo</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>You do not need to bother with it. If you change the oil often and/or use a quality synthetic oil, you adn your engine will be just fine!<p>Yannis</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Thanks Yannis. I'll sleep better now <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"> I plan to follow your prescription of 7500 mile synthetic oil change interval to follow the maintainance schedule.<p>BTW, the wife seems to be on a 3 year schedule for a new car. We love the our first Volvo but desire more lower end torque than the higher reving racier T5. Is 2.5T my best bet? Will be testing driving one soon but wanted to hear your expert opinion first.
 

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Re: (Howardc)

Well, an upgraded T5 will have both low and high end. If you want to save some money and compromise a bit on handling but have a nice, torquey engine, the 2.5T is an excellent choice.<p>BTW, if you are ona 3-yr. cycle, I hope you are leasing otherwise you are throwing money away...<p>Yannis
 
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