[ApriliaNut]

Hi everybody!
Newbie here looking for a weekender C70 to enjoy and was wondering about the longevity of the engine given correct routine maintenance.
I'm not afraid of "high mileage" units as in the past I've had Jags, Rover 2000TC, numerous Alfas, Renault Gordini, UrS4 all with high miles; highest of which was the Audi and that indestructible 5 cylinder AAN engine which I sold to tuner in Phoenix who drove all the way to the Coachella Valley to purchase it. When sold it had 355,000 miles on it and was running like a top! He called me when he got home to marvel at what he'd just bought, and was going to turn it into his "vette killer".

Anyway, so what is the highest mileage C70 anybody has heard of? I'm looking at one with around 200,000 on it! How long does the turbo typically last? Is the turbo well designed as far as cooling it goes?

Thanks in advance for the replies!

 

[socal_C70]

They changed the forum interface. It was hard to find the reply button.

Mine has 114,000 didn't have any engine problems.


It's missing a ceramic washer for the turbo that know one seems to know how to reorder or replace.

Cold starts in first gear doesn't feel right or snappy or the pedal response lags a lot compared to new.

Still dealing with an electric issue in the right headlight.

 

[Tedders]

Not sure, mine has 115,000. But use Volvo's plugs - makes all the difference in the world!

 

[Sysyphus61]

140k and counting, no major issues <knock wood>

 

[Facusan]

As long the engine has good maintenance I don't see why it won't go past 300k miles or even more. I've seen a few S40's with 300k+ for sale and still going strong.

AFAIK These engines don't like:

-Being overheated. Seriously!, if a radiator hose bursts while driving, you have 95% probability of having to replace the head gasket as well.

-Non genuine or non OEM spark plugs. cheap aftermarket spark plugs not recommended!

-Extended or skipping an oil change. especially if doesn't have full synthetic oil. Doing this will contribute to clog the PCV system.

-Old timing belts. they break and destroy valves. Don't wait until 105k or 120k to replace it, if is at least 6 years old replace it regardless of mileage. If it breaks, you will end up selling it very cheap to somebody like me (Mine had that and also 20 bent valves)

I can't remember anything else right now, but if I do, I'll add it.

The turbo should last as long as any turbo out there. It is a Borg Warner K04, the only catch is compressor housing has been integrated with the exhaust manifold, making it a "Turbofold" Other than that the rest is the same as a regular one. It is water cooled.

 

[Sysyphus61]

Well just to play devil’s advocate, my timing belt was done almost exactly at book time: 119,950, just a month or so short of it’s tenth birthday.... wasn’t planned, just the way it turned out that I had the time and the money and my mechanic had the time and the inclination... first time I replaced the plugs, somewhere around 100,000, pretty sure it was the originals I took out (FoMoCo) I used genuine Volvo plugs and 1,000 or so miles later developed a bit of a misfire that quite rapidly deteriorated into a serious misfire... on removing the plug found the anode was movable up and down inside the ceramic... couple of thousand miles later another one did the same thing... replaced them all with another new set of genuine and haven’t had any trouble in that department since

 

[Facusan]

You were extremely lucky with that belt!

When I bought my S40 with 105k miles the timing belt was this:

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[Facusan]

Off topic: a few years ago I found this car listed on craigslist. The seller listed it as a non running, and didn’t know why.

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[JEdge]

I had a URS4 as well mine was a 92, lowered, chipped, body kit. That thing was an M5 killer as well as a corvette killer. I acquired it in 2000 from some guy who had it mostly sitting in Florida with 40K on it. I beat that thing to death, and ended up getting rid of it because the car had a cooling sensor issue, I was moving south, so I figured it would not do well here. On a funny note during my convertible hunt I went to test drive a Lexus LS at a small used car and repair center near me and they had a URS4 that was the owners for sale.

Anyway these 5's seem to be made pretty well, a little harder to get to everything since the hood area is much smaller. I wanted to buy an A5 but as most people know Audi has gone to crap as far as reliability again. I say again because my first real car was an Audi 4000 with the 5, then two 4000 Quattro's never had a problem, then the POS 5000, followed by a 200Q which also a POS, and then the URS4. When that had an issue it was always $1000, but not often. So I started buying Lexus GS's. But when it came to finding a reasonable and reliable convertible the Volvo won me over.
Read up on Hilton Tuning, upgrading the rear sway bar, and installing a strut brace.

When test driving higher mileage cars listen for a whistle under the hood, it is caused by a malfunctioning oil separator, cheap part but hard to get to. Deduct that repair from the offer if you find it. I drove one when looking and no one, including me, knew what it was so I steered clear of it.

 

[JEdge]

How old was the car when you found that belt ? I have a 2011 with only 55k on it, looks I might need to do the belt way ahead of the 110k mileage recommendation due to age.

 

[paradoxicallymodified]

How old was the car when you found that belt ? I have a 2011 with only 55k on it, looks I might need to do the belt way ahead of the 110k mileage recommendation due to age.

Time kills as well. I bought my ‘08 c30 with 6400 miles on it and it is now sitting at 35k. I have within the last two years replaced all of the motor mounts upper and lower. Lower with poly. I have also replaced all of the belts, water pump, tentsioner etc. Also all of the suspension bushes are replaced with PowerFlex. Basically all of the rubber has rotted due to time not use so I have systematically replaced it all. Silicone and poly where applicable.
I’ve got about 15K on the sleeved motor but am always on the lookout for the next rubber failure. I replace the PCV every other year as a routine maintenance part and have replaced all the brake lines for the same reason. Car has never seen winter and very little rain and still the rubber components just eventually go to ****.


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[Sysyphus61]

Yes, a 2011 needs doing very soon if not now, don’t forget many 2011 models actually went into service in 2010

 

[Facusan]

I agree with sysyphus61, change that belt ASAP!


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[JEdge]

Belt change

I agree with sysyphus61, change that belt ASAP!


Thanks I was going to wait till next year, but based on what you are saying I will. I also think the rubber bits are dependent upon where you live. I used to live in Arizona and rubber parts wore out much faster than other places I have lived. I picked up the car in New Mexico, it looks like it was an east coast car early on, but the dry air does rubber no favors. Car was manufactured June of 2011.

What else should I be doing along with the timing belt?
Thanks,

 

[paradoxicallymodified]

I agree with sysyphus61, change that belt ASAP!


Thanks I was going to wait till next year, but based on what you are saying I will. I also think the rubber bits are dependent upon where you live. I used to live in Arizona and rubber parts wore out much faster than other places I have lived. I picked up the car in New Mexico, it looks like it was an east coast car early on, but the dry air does rubber no favors. Car was manufactured June of 2011.

What else should I be doing along with the timing belt?
Thanks,

Good idea to do the water pump and tensioner


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[Sysyphus61]

Mixed opinions on the water pump... most I’ve heard from suggest the original water pump is good for two timing belts and best left in there unless showing any signs of problems.

 

[Facusan]

When I changed the timing belt, I kept the original water pump, on both of my cars.

 

[JEdge]

Belt condition

Well since you guys do your own belt changes I thought maybe I could, NOT. However I found an IPD video of the whole process and discovered how easy it is to pull the belt cover on top of the engine and inspect the belt. I think mine looks very good.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/aMpMAUjdh264sDK98 Thats the link to a google photos.

 

[paradoxicallymodified]

Well since you guys do your own belt changes I thought maybe I could, NOT. However I found an IPD video of the whole process and discovered how easy it is to pull the belt cover on top of the engine and inspect the belt. I think mine looks very good.

Are you looking at the backside of the belt or the inside of the belt? What about belt stretch?


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[JEdge]

I looked at both as best I could, I also felt under the belt and everything seemed great. No oil anywhere.


(Whats the trick to get photos to show on the site? I used the add a photo button added the URL and nothing)?