SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 20 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I had new wheels/tires installed at a local shop. 18" Bremmer Kraft BR09 with Conti DSW 06. Could not get it balanced, even after fitting aluminum hub rings. Fitted Pilot Sport A/S 3s on BR 09 wheels and it was better but not eliminated. Shop found that the BR 09 wheels were drilled off center for the studs/lugs. Ordered (4) new BR 09's and those came in drilled off center also.

Yesterday, they installed Sparco 18" Pro Corsa wheels with my A/S 3 tires. Vibration pursists above 55mph. But then I can hit a bump or round a bend and the vibration disappears. Only to come back again. It can smooth out at 75mph, then I'll slow to 70, speed back up and it comes back.

Has anyone else come across this? Anyone have any idea what may be causing it, especially with it being intermittent? Is this now a driveline issue? Bad tire?

At this point, I'm ready to take it to local dealer in an attempt to have them resolve the vibration. I just want my smooth riding Volvo back!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Not going to be of much help, other than to say I have a similar vibration I'm trying to track down 13 S60. I have Axis sport wheels from TireRack and Pilot Super Sports. I had a set of Conti DW before and thought it was a tire issue after 2 balances, then got the pilot super sports. I notice the vibration above 50ish as well, noticeable the most at 70-75. Over the weekend I checked runout of the my rotors as well as tire/wheel assemblies when mounted. I know I have a warped rotor that isn't helping my situation.

Do you feel the vibration get worse in the steering wheel when you begin to apply turning pressure? For instance on the highway if it turn it 2 degrees or so I feel it come through the wheel.

I plan to replace the rotors and then do a road force balance. After that I'm going to Volvo as well.

My Run out readings for reference in case anyone smarter than us joins.

LF:
Tire on car axial: .025" TIR
Wheel lateral: .010"
Rotor lateral: .002"

RF:
Tire on car axial: .020" TIR
Wheel lateral: .006"
Rotor lateral: .003"

LR:
Tire on car axial: .031" TIR
Rotor lateral: .002"

RR:
Tire on car axial: .034" TIR
Rotor lateral: .006"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Were the tires mounted and road force balanced using a Hunter GSP9700? Without knowing the road force (lbs.) it's hard to say what role the tire might be playing. I'm surprised that Tire Rack sent you two sets of bad BR09 wheels. How far off-center was the centerbore?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The shop tells me they are road force balanced, but I haven't witnessed it or received the read our results.
The intermittence leads me to think it may be the hub rings. I assume plastic rings are installed with the new Sparco wheels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do you have the right lug bolts? There is a difference between the OEM seat and aftermarket.
Lug bolts provided by TireRack. I suppose I can try Volvo lug bolts. I assume the Sparco seat design necessitated aftermarket lugs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·

Aftermarket on left. OEM on right. Conical circumference is noticeably different. Could this be the culprit?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,418 Posts
confused, did TireRack do the mounting/balancing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
If they used a GSP9700 they can print out the report for the balance showing Road Force measurements and suggested placement.

I have alot of experience in this area as I have a disease that if I have any slight vibration, it would drive me mad. I have sold cars in the past due to this.

My 2cents:

1.. Make sure the Tirerack sent the correct centering ring.
2.. Make sure the tire place didn't remove them.
3.. Run the whole process on the balancer without the ring installed. If they show up fine for road force but have a vibration on the car, it is the ring. Also make sure the bolts are the right hardware.

The tirerack is great but they have sent me the wrong rings in the past, same results.

One last thing, have them mount the originals back to confirm that the vibration is not a warped rotor deck due to impact gun use the first time. (been there as well)

Cheers and good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Balance report says 0.7 all around, not sure if with rings.

They want to turn the rotors even though there's only 6K miles on them.

Appointment set with Volvo dealer on Tuesday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,030 Posts
Turn the rotors? With 6K on them? No way.....they are warrantied for 1 year/10K no matter what. If you need your rotors turned, then you actually need new rotors under warranty. Personally, this is why I never buy anything but OEM wheels. Slap on a set of OEM from another car on the lot and drive it....you'll soon find out if it's the car or the wheels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,506 Posts
So I had new wheels/tires installed at a local shop. 18" Bremmer Kraft BR09 with Conti DSW 06. Could not get it balanced, even after fitting aluminum hub rings. Fitted Pilot Sport A/S 3s on BR 09 wheels and it was better but not eliminated. Shop found that the BR 09 wheels were drilled off center for the studs/lugs. Ordered (4) new BR 09's and those came in drilled off center also.

Yesterday, they installed Sparco 18" Pro Corsa wheels with my A/S 3 tires. Vibration pursists above 55mph. But then I can hit a bump or round a bend and the vibration disappears. Only to come back again. It can smooth out at 75mph, then I'll slow to 70, speed back up and it comes back.

Has anyone else come across this? Anyone have any idea what may be causing it, especially with it being intermittent? Is this now a driveline issue? Bad tire?

At this point, I'm ready to take it to local dealer in an attempt to have them resolve the vibration. I just want my smooth riding Volvo back!
Are the tires new? You say "my A/S 3 tires", so I thought they may be off another car. We did this witg snow tires from our Audi and they vibrated badly. The shop said it was because the old tires were worn to the suspension of the old car, and the Volvo suspension was picking up the slight variations in the tire. Went back to OEM and no problems.

We do have a vibration that is similar to yours now at 64k miles, but I believe its because of a slightly bent wheel, since when we rotate it goes away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Turn the rotors? With 6K on them? No way.....they are warrantied for 1 year/10K no matter what. If you need your rotors turned, then you actually need new rotors under warranty. Personally, this is why I never buy anything but OEM wheels. Slap on a set of OEM from another car on the lot and drive it....you'll soon find out if it's the car or the wheels.
With the exception of the 19" BOR's, I don't find any other Volvo wheels attractive. And I don't want to move up to a 19" wheel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,030 Posts
Aftermarket wheels often have horrendous quality control, even ultra expensive ones. You are seeing this first hand. Many tires are incapable of being balances correctly. When I worked at Lexus we set back tires all the time that were new and could not be balanced properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
I assume all was fine with the OEM wheels? The issue started after the install of the aftermarket wheels? It'll be interesting to hear the dealers take on vibration issues with aftermarket wheels and tires. I would suspect this will not be investigated under warrantee.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I assume all was fine with the OEM wheels? The issue started after the install of the aftermarket wheels? It'll be interesting to hear the dealers take on vibration issues with aftermarket wheels and tires. I would suspect this will not be investigated under warrantee.
It's at the dealer now. Theyve rebalanced the wheels/tires and had it up to 75mph. They tell me there is a very small vibration and to drive it to deem acceptable. Otherwise they get to the costly part of swapping factory wheels/tires onto my car to confirm aftermarkets to be the problem.

At this point, I am ready to back to factory 17s until I find a set of factory 18s I like.
 
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Top