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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
These aren't sleeves. It's a block saver, half sleeve, block guard etc., as stated above. We call it the BlockGuard.

I have spent the last year designing it with Kaplhenke Racing, through Re-Volv, and this is the prototype. The idea was to fully support the factory sleeves by filling the gap in the water jacket, while also increasing the cooling capacity and efficiency of the engine. Underneath the deck surface, the BlockGuard has heat sinks built in that line the outside of bores. There is also a thermally conductive epoxy that fills in micro-gaps left over from machining to inhibit 99.99% surface contact between the BlockGuard and the outside of the cylinder bores. Step 1 was to pull more heat from the cylinders to reduce heat stress on the internals.

Step 2 was to properly support the gap between each bore. Brass shims were used for their thermal properties as well.

After getting the block back from kaplhenke racing, I brought it to the machine shop for a jet wash of all parts and basic machining. The idea is to run STOCK rods and pistons, with new rod/main bearings and rings. We want to see what Volvo internals can support before installing aftermarket parts. My guess is that this setup with my turbo will make 425-450hp on a dyno and be daily driven.

I only have 150 miles on the brand new engine, flywheel/clutch kit and Wavetrac LSD. Another 350 miles and Stevo will tune it for the Snabb 3.5" intake kit and Maf setup. 23-24psi will get me where I want to be.

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I did some more stuff to my 06 t5 the other day.





























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very nice option to have for sure, but still a waste for 2.5l 83mm bore...i'll be the first one to say it and as someone "pushes" this setup in 83mm bore they will confirm it...and for 81mm bore really no need to deck the block...a waste of money. the truth.


Dougy, where is weak link on a 2.5L? And which 2.3L blocks are you using? I don't see this breaking very soon lol.
weak link on a 2.5l 83mm ? No matter what you do, it is always between liners, especially with shims pushed down. So lets say you don't have your block decked but it is shimmed only and you create a condition that could cause a crack in a liner. Where do you think that crack will occur??? First place is, right where your pressed shim is... Now lets say your block was decked like it is now, where do you think it will crack if that same condition arises??? Right between the sleeves with your shims in there...Why in the world would I deck it ??? ...a 2.3l 81mm bore is better, but not worth spending 500$ to deck it in material...see where i'm going with it... instead of giving yourself a false hope, that money should be directed towards Dartons.

i have a 2001 v70 t5 2.3 block.


here is something for both of you Bens to think about..."now think here" how hot does it get between darton sleeves in a "sleeved T5 engine" on top or below of the HG without the channels being there? :)

Until someone takes a forged aluminum monoblock that's been machinged into a white block, cryo-freezed and blue-printed with ceramic impregnated bores, we can say that there is only so much power a stock, sleeved or closed deck block can take. I think we'll have plenty of power to wreck transmissions angle gears and more with some of these options. I'm interested to see how much it can take. The open deck design is a known flaw. This thing not only attacks that directly, but it increases cooling to the top end of the cylinder. Reduction in vibration from the stability and reduction of heat seem like it may help with cracking a lot more than just thinking about it as a simple brace. An engine build is somewhere down the road for me and I'm still leaning towards sleeves, but they have their problems. I've read a lot about "sleeve drop." That seems to be the biggest problem with wet-sleeve inserts. I have not heard about them on a Volvo block, but it does not mean that it can't happen. With more and more people doing sleeves, we can get better statistics on that.

On another performance note, anyone polishing and porting. I haven't read about much going on here. I'm not talking a huge flow bench tested one. I'm thinking about smoothing casting imperfections and matching ports for a less turbulent transition. Anyone doing that, I'm planning on it when I do my build.
Thank you for seeing past the obvious "brace" aspect of this blockguard. You nailed it.

Here's an update after 750 miles. On stock internals it feels like I'm making 400hp. I replaced the fuel pump last year along with some 60lb bosch ev14 injectors running 4bar. The maf was upgraded to the v8 s4/s6/s8 maf.

At 19.5psi we are logging a decrease in fuel pressure at high rpm. This is a pretty impressive setup. Now to see which fuel pump I can swap into the volvo housing to increase flow so we actually run some boost through this thing.





Why don't you bump the boost to 25-30 psi with about 200 wot pulls and then do a write up...what you did the is done with simply shimmed block...lolol


The big issue I see is the price compared to sleeves. In CT it's about $2k for just sleeves and block. Now labor wise this is better because it doesn't require the block be stripped and Pistons (for all that work it's getting new Pistons (or at least rings) imho)/bearings be replaced. Whether or not it will stop cracks or simply delay them I don't think anyone is qualified to say until the car sees some serious mileage at high boost. Additionally, it would be a good idea to get a control of how long it takes for a stock block to go tango uniform at high boost (I.e. Get an identical setup with the stock block and with about equal miles and beat on it) and compare it to a blockguard block and possibly a shimmed block. That will IMHO determine the benefits compared to sleeves and just shims. Finally, I hate to say it but for most R cars it's probably too late--who knows how many have cracks that are asymptomatic.

Also, that green wagon is beautiful. 2 tone P80R in green looks the best (sorry Laser Blue :rolleyes: )

You're dumber than you look. We maxxed out the fuel system, therefor we can't run more boost. Instead of Jumping the gun, how about you sit back and watch what happens? You have no idea what this setup is capable of because you keep cutting corners instead of actually finding any limit. My tune is 100% rock solid and not an email tune. We spend hours perfecting and driving until every aspect of the tune is ironed out. I'm not sure what makes you an authority on these engines anyway hahah.

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Dougy, according to your dyno graph seen below, you have a very small power band. You're already out of the efficiency of your turbine housing before you even pass 6,000rpm. My boost onset is right around 3,500-3,750 and it pulls like a freight train to 7k where the Rev limiter is temporarily. Once we have round 2 of tuning, it will rev to 8k rpm, have a 2 step launch control, a hard rpm limiter and more boost. Trust me, your automatic s60 wouldn't stand a chance.

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thank you for noticing my looks ;) and thank you for looking up and down through my threads aaaand bringing up the point of the authority part on T5 blocks...once again Thank you and here is a link for you Ben :beer: :cool: ... but you must sink this into your cranium , I am not the one here selling block guards to Volvo community by posting/saying basically things like

" hey guys I am running out of fuel but it feels like 400hp thus far with only 19.5 psi boost and just know that it is a freight train " another-wordz people " it pulls really hard already " even if you posted a dyno graph and 1/4 mile time, it would prove absolutely nothing as far as block guards...do you comprehend that??? lolol...now that is what you call a dummb azz post by you...year in making ? seriously ? it would prove that Steveo is a great tuner, I might call him. :D

also never once did you see me posting that my Diack is bigger that yours, cause for whatever reason you are comparing my 20g car to yours :facepalm:...I think you are reading/following up on every one of my post lill too hard with a different individual and ASSume I am actually serious. lol but seriously, thank you. :D

ok sorry for being such a critic and lets actually get back to your Original Topic of block guards ....

how much will these super block guards cost???

putting the block guard theory causing hot spots aside , could you please tell me if our stock T5 block sleeves have problem moving around or actually move ???

when installing your " year in making block guards" , do you have to bore out the sleeves like you did ???

since I can first hand tell you running 30psi boost for about 5000 miles on my 2.3l 81mmm bore all stock T5 block with inefficient 20g turbocharger without any sleeve failure , what would be the benefit of these block guards for someone as clueless as me :) ???

Dougy,

You clearly can't comprehend what I'm saying here. Your 20g does not make any horsepower.

You could also run 30psi on a k24, and you'd still be fine, and still wouldn't make any horsepower. With a large frame turbo, things change, not that would know that though. You have a load on your sleeves for a very small window of time. I'm not starting a "build thread" like everyone else because I don't have time. I'll update as I go along. The first weak link I hit was the fuel system becoming inadequate. After I replace it with something higher flowing, we turn up the boost and find the next weak link. And I bet it won't be the rods, or the cylinder liners.

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Jesus christ guys. Are you all blind? The block guard keeps the cylinders braced against the outside of the block. There are also brass shims in there that will dissipate heat more quickly than steel.

And Doug, your model is much worse than mine in that you are looking for more parts for a customer to buy. You're not fixing the problem, just taking short cuts. Seals don't leak if your pcv system is in good shape and you pay attention to maintenance schedules. And if you don't understand the correlation between proper crank case breathing and leaky seals, you shouldn't be offering advise to anyone other than yourself.



ok Ben sorry , I'am just going to sit back as you suggested and let you do what you are doing in going through 1. 2 . 3. steps of testing these blockguards and just post at your convenience the results, cause i'm kinda lost with your replies.


I'm not going to through testing stages, I'm turning up the boost and tuning accordingly. Unfortunately, our diagnostics have shown that the fuel pump can not keep up and fuel pressure begins to fall slightly at high rpm. I will get the car dynod so we can put on record how much horsepower a brand new volvo fuel pump will support (R and T5 models) with 750cc ev14s. After the new pump goes in, we will hit the dyno again for some higher boost tuning. My turbo has just entered it's efficiency range so I can't even imagine what 23-24psi will feel like.

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cool, whatever you do , keep us posted buddy...but you should open a thread for your own reference...why not ? you are posting in here anyway.
 

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This idea is not new.

I don't see a need for one of these since using the 81mm block can easily make 400 hp, survive just fine and be daily driven.

There are smarter alternatives without spending the money.

Dougy, Are you running and MLS gasket? Did you o-ring? Interested in seeing how long that holds up at 30psi. Not that the sleeves won't hold, but the head gasket will be the weak link IMHO.
 

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This idea is not new.

I don't see a need for one of these since using the 81mm block can easily make 400 hp, survive just fine and be daily driven.

There are smarter alternatives without spending the money.

Dougy, Are you running and MLS gasket? Did you o-ring? Interested in seeing how long that holds up at 30psi. Not that the sleeves won't hold, but the head gasket will be the weak link IMHO.
he uses the older style HG with the rings around the cylinders for high boost so i don't think he will have any problems.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Dougy, Are you running and MLS gasket? Did you o-ring? Interested in seeing how long that holds up at 30psi. Not that the sleeves won't hold, but the head gasket will be the weak link IMHO.


he uses the older style HG with the rings around the cylinders for high boost so i don't think he will have any problems.


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i answered in my thread. http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...no-Hilton-tuned-401-AWDHP-410-AW-Torque/page4
 

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I've seen MLS hold up just fine in racing applications. If you lift your head enough to mess them up, other types will **** up too. I've seen the ring types get blown right out when the head lifts so they are not invincible either.
 
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